I own three Trackers and I was wondering if anyone knew what I could put on my brakes to prevent them from seizing when in storage. I frequently move the truck but it doesn't really help that much.
Any ideas??
How do you accomplish a brake fluid purge? I would have to do it alone, is that practical?
Thanks
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In case I forgot to say, my '95 Sidekick was made in Iwata, Japan, I imported from Canada, (has DRL), Market code 03 (USA), JLX, 4A/T, 4Dr, 4WD, Hard top, Manual hubs, 1.6L 16V, Factory AC & Cruise, 133,000 mi. Converted IP to MPH for the US.
I also ment the pads seizing to the rotors , and the linnings to the drums.
The semi metalic pads and shoe rust to the rotor or drum, and the rust on the rotors causes a pulasting pedal until worn off.
Is there something that I can treat them with to prevent this, but also something that is easy to remove.
On_mitch
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtgh
brake.s
that's easy, ( you talking the service brake or emergency?)
purge fresh dot 4 fluid thru the system.
this removes all water and keeps them fresh protects from corrosion.
no corrosion,not sieze.
nothing else will do.
i purge all my cars every year. 1 quart thru all bleeds.(total not each)
brake fluid is hygroscopic and this is the problem.
Are you storing inside or outdoors? I place bales of straw near my wheels when I store my motor home indoors. This seems to absorb the moisture and keep the shoes free, use rodent control with this method. I have also sprayed a fine mist of brake fluid on the pads and shoes before storage. It takes a few minutes to burn off but also worked for me.
For $29.00 at harbour freight I bought a pistol style vacum pump with a brake bleeder bottle.
You simple fill the master cylinder and then starting at the furthest wheel cylinder you apply vacum to the bleeder screw and while under vacum you open the bleeder screw.
This will draw the fluid without allowing air back into the system.
P/S keep an eye on your master cylinder top it up as needed and never let it run dry our you will draw into the system.
Never reuse the brake fliud us only new clean fluid.
On_mitch
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbacon
jtgh,
How do you accomplish a brake fluid purge? I would have to do it alone, is that practical?
That sounds pretty easy, I already have a vacuum pump I use for pulling down my car AC system, I could just put a bottle in between so not too much goes into the pump.
The pump makes an irritating noise, but I will wear earplugs, sounds like this is quick.
Do you find most bleeder screws allow a tube to be applied to their output?
__________________
In case I forgot to say, my '95 Sidekick was made in Iwata, Japan, I imported from Canada, (has DRL), Market code 03 (USA), JLX, 4A/T, 4Dr, 4WD, Hard top, Manual hubs, 1.6L 16V, Factory AC & Cruise, 133,000 mi. Converted IP to MPH for the US.
Well you guys have opened my eyes to a new world of brake maintenance. Thank you, I will look for speed bleeders. And that will be at NAPA, not the mortuary (Ick, I wish I hadn't said that...)
__________________
In case I forgot to say, my '95 Sidekick was made in Iwata, Japan, I imported from Canada, (has DRL), Market code 03 (USA), JLX, 4A/T, 4Dr, 4WD, Hard top, Manual hubs, 1.6L 16V, Factory AC & Cruise, 133,000 mi. Converted IP to MPH for the US.
This has to be the ultimate system, and doesn't sound like the speed bleeders are needed. I got all that stuff, and I am sure that the addition of a fitting to the existing cap, and a plug for it when done, would be fine, so I wouldn't need another, thank you. I will see what fittings I need, that would be about it.
I will think about how to make sure I don't go below a certain level of fluid, If I come up with something I will share (brag, actually).
Thanks for the really great method!
__________________
In case I forgot to say, my '95 Sidekick was made in Iwata, Japan, I imported from Canada, (has DRL), Market code 03 (USA), JLX, 4A/T, 4Dr, 4WD, Hard top, Manual hubs, 1.6L 16V, Factory AC & Cruise, 133,000 mi. Converted IP to MPH for the US.
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