blown rear main seal

mtndew · 07-20-2009, 03:11 AM

I've known that my rig has a slow oil leak for a little bit now but yesterday when i was changing my oil i noticed it was coming from right where the engine and tranny meet. that wouldnt be anything other than a rear main right? ( no oil on top of engine, only bottom) and second, what would be easier? pulling the engine or pulling the tranny and gettting under the car? and last, ive never done one of these before. how do i get the old seal out and new one in? i dont have to pull the engine apart do i?

billsmartis · 07-20-2009, 01:24 PM

I would check to see if the "o" ring on the dizzy is leaking and oil is leaking down the back of the engine before I'd tear into it.

Bill S.

MarkB.NV · 07-20-2009, 04:25 PM

Very interested in this thread. Tired of seeing the drips in the driveway.

The oil pan on my '91 appears to be leaking as well. I'm not sure if I can change that oil pan gasket with the engine still in -and the front axle still in as well.

I need to take the Tracker to the car wash and do the degreaser cleaning - figure out exactly where its leaking from. Potentially its the oil pan gasket or the front main seal.

mtndew · 07-20-2009, 04:59 PM

good call bill. looks like it is coming from the dizzy (thats a relief). but does anyone have the part number for the o ring? none of the parts stores around here can find it. or is it just a standard o ring? if so, what size?

mark. for your pan gasket, it is usually possible to loosen motor mounts and lift the engine up a couple inches. just enough to drop the pan down (a couple inches) and shimmy a new gasket in there. but let me tell you its a pain in the ass! ive done this on several different cars. just have a beer on hand and be prepared to get very pissed off at your rig

billsmartis · 07-20-2009, 06:15 PM

Try the local chevy dealer tracker/chevy sidekick/suzuki same vehicle same engines.

Bill S

jtgh · 07-20-2009, 08:41 PM

droping pan in place is really an act of magic, love to see youtube on that.

show us. by time you got it loose enough, might of well have pulled it.

IMHO.

all oil leaks.

1: clean motor.
2: drive 10 miles.
3 ; see real source of leak.

never guess,

top fails are.
valve cover ( fooling you)
both o-rings bad in dizzy 1 on shaft one on mount.

i have PN that works, for $1

how to purchase parts

both Suz PN for dizzy rings.
and my cheap upgrade sources, for VITON.

use VITON and it will never crack in your lifetime. just 25 cents more....

you wont be happy with after changing rear seal and pan gaskets to find it was a $1 fix.

mtndew · 07-21-2009, 04:04 PM

ok, so just to make sure before i order them are these the correct o rings? they dont match your part number exactly but i think im looking at the right ones:
-035 V75 (2-1/4 ID X 2-3/8 OD X 1/16 W)
-118 V75 (7/8 ID X 1-1/16 OD X 3/32 W)
is that right? i cant believe their so cheap! my local suzuki dealer wanted like $12 for those 2!

and speaking of valve cover gaskets, you know any sites where i can get a $1 gasket?
lol, im probably dreaming right?

jtgh · 07-21-2009, 10:24 PM

my friend has a cork tree in his back yard, in SA.
cut off free cork and then cut out gasket using old one for templet.

100% free..

my part nums are as close as i could guess, and fits real tight on dizzy tip during insertion.
be sure to grease it well.

and fill the dizzy base with 1 teaspoon of oil (motor) before dizzy insertion.

all old kicks do this. the head temp bakes the old one to death,
the vitons would have stopped that.

there are ppl on fleebay that sell 25cent orings for $25.
what rip off artist they are....

jtgh · 07-21-2009, 10:27 PM

one trick is 2 order one size bigger and smaller.
3 for 1.

and then use the best fitting. that is what id did.
after the measure and calcs. ID , OD, and CS (cross-section size)

i went off OD of dizzy shaft,(picked matching ID of ring and then mic'd the CS on the old oring. to my best ability, hope it saves you time and money.

they ship fast out of LA, computer shipping sys.

cheers