Looks like it runs decent when the engine is cold. Was right at 800 RPMs idling for a good while. Throttle the engine to 2500 RPMs to rise the temp. After temp stabilization, let the throttle back to idle. Seems to hang about 600 to 500 RPMs shaking and if I tap the throttle, backfires by the intake.
Definitely, I am thinking more and more on fuel pressure.
When I get my O Rings I do the Valve cover and check the Cam Timing at while I am at it. Just to double check.
BTW... Fed Ex sucks, the Postal Service gives a quicker service for less. Is been almost a week and still waiting for the F-ing O Rings and my Fuel Pressure Gauge.
does it make full power cold? , that is ,start it and work the motor and at least get 50% power , not asking WOT cold. no one wants to do that. POWER COLD?
this is only a hot issue right.?
if the car runs perfect cold , i dont see how fuel pressure is an issue.
as cold uses way more fuel.
that idle can be TPS switch not closing.
or bad ISC sticking.
or signs of fuel starvation. cause idle to drop to illegal range.
the THE ECT must read correctly
the IAT must read correct on 8v or it will mis compute air density grossly.
IAT is just a low mass ECT, other than that they are same sensor. but not.
IAT reacts faster.
its not shorted or open because youd get CEL for that.
FED EXP sux, FED EXP sux, darn them any way.
just be careful with cam timing.
all 4 pointer can be perfect and it is not. key way slip is insiduous. (lies , lies, lies)
your compression is ok, but it might be just starting to slip.
good recap. that motor can and will run !
if yor MAP turns out bad, i can give you a free one. ( no need for it now)
yes , tank drop.
wish i had the fancy , fiber bore scope ,id loan it to you so you could inpect the tank.
if less then 10 gallons ,just drain it in to a jerry can. (hope its only got 5gal)
siphon is slow. but effective.
if you need help testing the MAP , all it takes is a voltmeter and a hand vacuum pump.
oops.
make sure the map sensor pin 1 , is at +5vdc key on , for got to say that blush.
gray/red
or
TPS same color at harness and PINK at TSP Actual. +5vref.
if it dont get this , MAP will be dead and so will TPS.
Id expect codes for that but, just incase its low ,or weak we must look.
this ECU has a trace that blows off the circuit board if this is ever shorted to ground.
a weakness. no present in the 16v.
one way to do this (best way)
is to just use the car as the power source.
set meter .
20vdc range.
At MAP.
black meter lead to Gray/yell (see schematic below)
red meter lead to . gray/red , must be +5v key on. if not ecu bad ,or wires shorted at gray /red harness path. (spec is like +-5% for this value) 4.75-5.25vdc
next, place vacuum pump on map nipple.
move red meter lead to . gray/green. key on.
pump vacuum. use charge below to validate MAP.
3.9v to 0.5v (varies with vac)
that is it, you have it nails.
1: bad fuel pressure
2: or bad timing marks.
3: bad ecu.
pop lid on ecu (the mount screws are a SOB to remove)
look for:
1 smoke under the lid.
2: leaking caps. (or have you already done this i forgot.
leaking boric acid all over the precious copper traces.
some time thy are so leaked out they are dry and all you see is a funny look below them. all dried out.
some have split sides, some have volcano cones on them. (erupted)
many here have gone the distance on checking everything , and bingo ECU.
but the FSM says to do that.
but all 95s in USA and Canada , and older are subject to CAP BLOW OUT.
if the side say RUBYCON (black plastic) it is crap , get them out. they are not prime time parts.
I ordered this afternoon the Caps from Mouser Electronics, did not had the last one that you posted on the list. But according to your site, the 1st twos are the most important. Dam it with the delivery... $10 total to buy 1.80 worth of Caps. I ordered 2 of each, just in case I mess one up. It would be so cheap to place them on a baggie and put a stamp on it with a 4 day delivery vs 1 F Week on premium paid shipping.
The order now, is Check Timing Marks (when I change the valve cover gasket), Fuel Pressure when the dog-gone pressure gauge gets here and last would be the ECU, if all checks out.
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