What to inspect when buying Tracker/Sidekick?

Greasyman · 07-17-2009, 12:12 AM

Hi, this is my first post. I'm thinking of getting a Tracker/Sidekick for general running around and the rare off-road excursion.

What are the problem areas, if any, I should make a point of looking at with these vehicles? From the reading I've done it seems that the ECUs can be a problem, with capacitors melting. How much does it cost to fix this?

Can I expect a well maintained Tracker/Sidekick with 100-130,000 miles to be reasonably problem free? I've seen several with that kind of mileage advertised for about $2000.

Will 2WD be ok for use on logging and fire roads? This vehicle will see 95% pavement use and no snow. I appreciate any and all advice, thanks.

trinity · 07-17-2009, 12:22 AM

welcome to SF..

ranger88den · 07-17-2009, 06:33 AM

Do a search, this is one of many I found.
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...ommon+problems
Get 4wd, the mileage is still good with hubs locked out and welcome.

relicduke · 07-17-2009, 07:07 AM

I'd say that with you in Calif. there shouldn't be an issue with rust,the rocker panels rear frame and body mounts seem to go worst,so if the cel light isn't on and it looks like it was maintained it wouldn't be any worse than any other used car.
I paid 700 for my first Tracker,drove it for a year and aside from normal running expence it was great.Too bad you don't have snow,they'll go through a lot as long as she doesn't ride up,high centering,they won't go anywhere if the wheels aren't on the ground.Also I get 31 mpg,and We leave the hubs locked unless on a long trip

tusong200 · 07-17-2009, 09:05 AM

Go with 4wd. Otherwise, what's the point??:-) If auto tranny, try and get the one with overdrive. Make sure it idles smoothly. I passed on a beautiful 92 4dr that idled very rough for $1600. Paid $350 for my smashed 92 4dr that ran perfectly, 165,000 miles. Put a coupla hundred dollars into junkyard body parts. Lovin' it. Great little vehicle.

jtgh · 07-17-2009, 04:48 PM

Welcome to the forum. good post. many like it but answer is easy.
get 96+ if you can for super smart ECU (OBD2 compliant) {saves money later}

1: make sure its a west coast car. not from the rust belt. ( look under left rear wheel finder to opening on top of fuel take, rust starts here.
2: if you can find 96-98 that has the FED48 sticker, it is better car.
3: tranny dont whine in neutral (or in gear)
4: CEL LAMP on KEY ON, and goes out after starting and stays out test driving.
4b: drive at 50mpg mininum, for 5 minutes min, and then cut throttle and coast off gas
for down to 10mph. (this gets EGR test done) Get car hot , up to temperture first.
5: temp guage moves to center-ish.
6: car idles smooth at 800 rpm , never lower. HL on and FAN on , rpm holds at 800.
no motor noises. (obvious)

7: try wide open trottle up hill in 3rd gear or 2nd or 3rd on automatic. Lots of power?

8 , rollover some bumps on purpose and listen to bad sounds from suspension.
speed bumps?

pay 1 to 3k , depending on condition.
check lamps, and all the features of car that are important to safety.

forget the ash tray light and the like.

ok , im sure others have lots more.

best of luck finding a cherry.

Greasyman · 07-17-2009, 06:04 PM

Thanks for the replies. I just got back from looking at a 94 with 2WD, manual, 105,000 miles, asking $2100. Seemed ok. Body a bit beat, diff was a bit wet with lube, mismatched tires, air doesn't work, new top, clean interior. The only mechanical problem I noticed it might have is it felt a bit squirrely. Might need shocks or it could be that I'm just not used to driving such a tall and short vehicle. It's the first one I've looked at so I'm going to shop around more, I might consider it for $1800 or so.