95 geo tracker AC issues...

[sublevel]

ok, I am trying to figure out my cooling issues with my 95 geo tracker (tbi 5 speed)

did a evac of the system, seemed to hold vacuum did a recharge (a little over at first)

did static pressure check 24 hrs later, both side were at about 100psi

I do have a 95 FSM and followed the steps to the mark

the inlet line is hot, the reciever drier line is equal temp on both sides of it and the outlet line is cool, but not ice box cold, the outlet line near the compressor is hot

next step in the book said to disconnect the dual pressure switch, low side went up and high side went down

now remember the thing was a bit over charged (60psi low/275 high) I bled some 134a out while it was running (now down to 35psi/225psi)

texas heat about 90 degrees at 11pm

compressor runs non-stop... is this style compressor supposed to cycle at all?

still can not get this thing to blow ice cold air, sight glass looks good

the condensor fan also comes on with no issues...

I am thinking expansion valve is messed up???? but looking for other suggestion...

thanks in advance

[jtgh]

is the damper working in the heater ,

there are dampers, more then one. (4)
one that blocks the heater coil, if it dont block that , you get heat full time.
then there is fresh air damper.

A/C box is separate box on Kicks.

move each HVAC cable , with flashlight make sure each cable moves each bell crank
at the end of cable.
if the crank dont move, bad cable.

on this car there is a quick disconnect on the cable that goes to the right, just above the glove box.. ( an in line white box, look inside box , see it unconnected?
mine was.

this cable Fresh,circ. on some years do not have what is just said and are straight thru.

look at the Mode control cable real careful. it goes left side of heater box.
the cables can , just come undone. so easy.

( yes, testing the expansion valve is no easy thing. I dont envy you)

cheers.

[sublevel]

i had all that apart before to fix something, just dont remember what

I know the fresh air and heater flaps do change and everything seems to move smoothly

I was shocked the dealership wants 200.00 for the expansion valve, 50 for the drier, and 100.00 for the dual pressure switch...

I am going to re hook up the gauges and set idle at 2000rpms and get correct temp and humidity and see where I am sitting...

but I will double check under the dash

I will post back again near the weekend if the weather holds up

[jtgh]

just move the levers, watch the damper bell crank arms.

min ?
max?
linear, begin to end.

the innner cable must move in direct proportion to the lever
the outer cable must not ever move. (twitch is ok)

did AC have contam , problem , bad compresser , bad oil,??
some one mixed up syn oil with mineral oil , , turn to Tar?

all these will kill an expansion valve.

and is SOP to clean whole system if that happens.

cheers.

[sublevel]

pulled glove box and cleaned leaves from blower motor... didn't help

bought a Haynes AC book... kinda back to where I was... replace drier and expansion valve, or leak test and evac system try again

[dbacon]

Overcharging will reduce the cooling effect. I got my 95 JLX working really good by charging just to the point where a few bubbles cross the sight glass every now and then.

I am sure it varies with outside conditions, but my clutch cycles on and off.

[jtgh]

if not too warm outside it should cycle , as the thermistor in the evaporator freezes.
just keep fan high will reduce that.

your bubble test is great advice. many folks overcharge.

cheers

[dbacon]

Yes, I discovered that by experiment, now is best AC I have ever owned.

[sublevel]

i have yet to see the compressor cycle in this vehicle... I know when it was empty it didn't turn on until my father started putting a charge in it...

I am gonna get some UV dye since I know it was flat empty and do a leak test, then I am going to see where that takes me... then look into replacing the drier first, and recharge

does anyone know if the off the self o-rings from says Oreilly Auto or Autozone work? or am I going to have to hit up the dealership for o-rings

thanks for all the input

[dbacon]

I would use the Auto Parts stores O-rings, I have in the past on two GM vans at the compressor manifold, and no problem at all. Be careful with any manifold that bolts down, overtightening can crack the mounting, I did it once. The seal afforded by most O-ring designs is achieved with very little compressive force.

I bought an electronic leak detector (WJL-6000) and 30 lbs of freon on-line very cheap, and I am very satisfied with it. Way less than what you pay by the small can. Be sure the leak detector is the heated-diode type, there are many for Freon 12 selling cheap because they are not good with 134a. They even sent me a hat with "R-22.com" on it.
They had a package deal, A11 REFRIGERANT CATEGORIES FOR R11,R12, R22, R502, R134a, R113, R123, R409A, R408A, R500, R404A but I think it was less back then. I recently got 134a at Sams Club for $89, 30 lb tank. (Because I didn't shut the valve on the main tank last Fall.)

If your leak is in the condensor or evaporator, you will see a lot of compressor oil saturating the area, you may not have to put dye in the system. Besides, unless you use the black light dye it never shows up anyway. I haven't been able to find leaks that way, maybe someone who really knows what they are doing could. But my "sniffer" works like a champ. as long as there is no moving air around. Also, if you do this, put it in the garage just before you test, because the detector will work better with a "clean" background.

Also, don't buy anything until you search around, I found a new condenser for around $25 instead of $260 at the dealer. I'll help you.