Before you let all the R134a out, please try it at this pressure:
1. Find ambient temp in degrees F
2. Double it.
3. With gauges on, AC max, all fans on high, fast idle (1000 RPM) set differential pressure to that number.
When you did this at 90 degrees, if the LO was 35, HI should have been 215. You were at 225, which is close, but it makes a big difference when you go just a little over.
Also with any R134a adjustment give it at least 60 seconds to stabilize before you evaluate the performance.
If the orfice was wrong, your pressures would be way off, that 35-225 sounds like the system is fine. But I have had limited experience, so others may know more...
It is also possible to have a slow leak that bleeds it all down in 2 years, but is slow enough to "live with" to get through each summer. But it should work even if you had a bad leak, maybe for just 2 days, but it should do something.
Recently my neighbor came over with her husbands brand new Chysler van, "AC suddenly quit." It was the first warm day after many cool ones. (Probably the first day he even tried the AC.) So I put on the hoses, charge was zero! I could hear hissing over the engine noises, so we shut it off, and there was loud hissing that lasted for only 10 seconds after I shut off my R134a supply. I could not locate the source, but it was under the engine somewhere. She said it will be fixed under warrantee, just stop wasting time and freon, so OK.
Then she had a hard time finding a dealer that would see it within a couple weeks, finally found one 50 miles away. We are in the Detroit area, nobody goes 50 miles for anything!
So this dealer fixed it, and I asked what the problem was, they told her, "loose radiator cap". Well the governemnt ownership sure has helped...
__________________
In case I forgot to say, my '95 Sidekick was made in Iwata, Japan, I imported from Canada, (has DRL), Market code 03 (USA), JLX, 4A/T, 4Dr, 4WD, Hard top, Manual hubs, 1.6L 16V, Factory AC & Cruise, 133,000 mi. Converted IP from KmH to MPH, AGA-1201 Remote Start.
did UV dye test saturday night... I seen no leaks (really can't check Evap area) I used Quest Quick shot (about 10.00 at Autozone, god for about 5 cars) and a 12" household black light... worked great!
no leaks... so I call around to find a drier/reciever Autozone had one in stock for about 25.00 out to door... I put a vacuum on the system it held, replaced drier and put another vacuum on the system, it also held
I installed .3oz of 46 PAG oil (vacuum + pressured can = empty quickly) and charged like the FSM said
temp was 101* humidity was 24% - gauge reading should have been 33 low and 275 high at 2000RPMS (same rpm I charged the system at)- that is what I put in there, ran the system forever never seen the compressor clutch cycle at all, cycled through all the heat/cold fresh air, levels, ac on and off while driving... I could tell the difference with the ac selection ON/OFF but its still not cold (and we use the same charge stuff thats in my parents 2000 Crysler Concorde and it will freeze you out)
I even did a quick look at the selector cables, everything seems good (will have to look more next weekend, started to rain)
after driving around for over 30min to an hour, and letting the car sit, I check pressures again, both side balanced (about 110psi) this is at 80* 80% humidity, turned the car on and ac (open all doors, max ac, 2000 rpms) and the pressures was at 25psi low and 150 psi ms at 2000rp(if I remeber those 2 right) so I put some more charge on (I was only using 12oz bottles and maybe went through 1 the 1st round) added until it was correct with the FSM again
still not ice cold, more like cool breeze cool...
I am still stumped... suggestions? maybe I am doing something wrong here...
I like your degree mark (*) very clever...
Humidity doesn't matter to the AC, it has no sensor for that, or use water evaporation as part of the cooling. It may matter as far as freezing the coils with ice buildup. But usually that isn't a problem with a car.
Whenever you lower air temp by 30* (I love that symbol) you double the humidity. When humidity gets to 100% the water condenses out of the air onto the cold surface, so that is why all that condensate comes pouring out.
I still think you should let a little out, I know it is 'spensive, and since I pay $2.76 a can, my attitude may be a bit looser on this, but overcharging really spoils things. Do you have a sight glass, can you set it to pass a few bubbles now and then?
__________________
In case I forgot to say, my '95 Sidekick was made in Iwata, Japan, I imported from Canada, (has DRL), Market code 03 (USA), JLX, 4A/T, 4Dr, 4WD, Hard top, Manual hubs, 1.6L 16V, Factory AC & Cruise, 133,000 mi. Converted IP from KmH to MPH, AGA-1201 Remote Start.
the factory service manual, has a section for humidity and temp, and setting you rpms at 2000rpms... and that is what they are going by to get proper high and low side pressures...
this afternoon was humid and hot and I jump in the geo before work to test the ac out, it does get cooler with the AC button pressed...
I have been cycling between heat and cold and fresh and recir. settings (think defrosting a fridge) and hoping the new drier would catch any extra moisture in the system
also found out after looking at the MODE settings, that one of the doors is not fully closing at UPPER LEVEL setting and letting some of the air out through the lower ducts (even though there are stopping points, a little spring is pulling up on the arm/rod for the BI-LEVEL setting) it looked as if you could screw/unscrew the rod in and out, but it just spins
I am hoping to get that fixed, so there will be more upper level pressure
I hope you are on to something with the door movement, I imagine it wouldn't take much bypass air to mix with the cooled air to spoil the performance.
I have observed that both lines to the evap unit get really cold when it is working good. I never knew why the input line gets cold, maybe it is just because it is attached to the cold evaporator, because the cooling happens where the expansion occurs. I think you mentioned that the pipes were cool.
I thought I better look up whan an expansion valve "TXV" does, and found this Thermostatic Expansion Valve so I see what jtgh means that it is "no easy thing to test".
Lastly, here is a link that explains that the TXV is calibrated for the type of coolant you have in the system, and even discusses changing that calibration. Makes me wonder if you would have been better off with just R134a, and not the "super cool" stuff, which might be propane and isobutane...
__________________
In case I forgot to say, my '95 Sidekick was made in Iwata, Japan, I imported from Canada, (has DRL), Market code 03 (USA), JLX, 4A/T, 4Dr, 4WD, Hard top, Manual hubs, 1.6L 16V, Factory AC & Cruise, 133,000 mi. Converted IP from KmH to MPH, AGA-1201 Remote Start.
I replaced the 2 o-rings for the compressor lines, all was well...
ac worked, finally I had ice cold air
but then I found another leak that I had suspected...
under the evap canister, the low pressure side line
I am wondering about the joint there, is there suppsosed to be a flare union there? the flare was cracking and I suspect the dye/oil was comming out when the system pressure was balancing itself
right now I tried putting an o-ring behind each flare, re-taping the union fitting and tightening it up and waiting to see what the vacuum it will hold
I checked on JTGH's website and looked at the exploded view of the line but didn't notice the union...
is the low side line supposed to be one piece? I am the 2nd owner of the vehicle and it is very untouched... so I was wondering if this is some goof design from the factory
Dark out now, but I will check these things on my '95 Tracker JLX in the morning and report back what it has. Mebbe take some pix for you...
__________________
In case I forgot to say, my '95 Sidekick was made in Iwata, Japan, I imported from Canada, (has DRL), Market code 03 (USA), JLX, 4A/T, 4Dr, 4WD, Hard top, Manual hubs, 1.6L 16V, Factory AC & Cruise, 133,000 mi. Converted IP from KmH to MPH, AGA-1201 Remote Start.
the fitting I am talking about is right under the emission canister
seemed to not be leaking... but it sure isn't throwing out ice cold air not like last night, bet the reciever drier is pooped again from the system being opened several times
The lines in question have no splices in them, here are some pictures, taken from the front looking down into the engine compartment, right side.
The Suction line is one piece from the output of the evaporator to the point above the radiator where it joins the flex hose into the suction side of the AC pump. Note, I have jammed a piece of "Depron" foam between the cold suction line and the hot radiator hose, for heat insulation.
The Liquid line is one piece from the dryer output to the evaporator.
You can't quite see my $35 evaporator ($360 at the stealorship) brand new thru eBay from "radiatorclassic".
Here is the unit now $35:
Do a search for: 94 95 96 97 98 SUZUKI SIDEKICK CONDENSER NIB AC
__________________
In case I forgot to say, my '95 Sidekick was made in Iwata, Japan, I imported from Canada, (has DRL), Market code 03 (USA), JLX, 4A/T, 4Dr, 4WD, Hard top, Manual hubs, 1.6L 16V, Factory AC & Cruise, 133,000 mi. Converted IP from KmH to MPH, AGA-1201 Remote Start.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
