Now What?

[b16freak]

Hello to everybody. I'm new to this forum and a really need some help.

I have a 1994 Sidekick with a 1.6L, 16V. The engine was running very good, but the only detail was that it was smoking badly.
Anyway a bought the valve seals along with some other gaskets and seals. I Already replaced them, change the spark plugs, calibrated the valves etc. The problem is that when I removed the cam sprocket, I didn't marked where the cam key was supposed to aligned because when I removed the sprocket I did it with the bolt all together and didn't realize that it had two marks on it. I have searched all the web for this info and everybody seems to have a different versions on how it supposed to go. Now they all got me confused. Some people even say to TDC at #4. I already tried a couple of times, every time with a different position at the cam sprocket, but haven't had any luck. My last try Yesterday I did the TDC at #4 and it started but it has a rough idle.
Today I checked everything from the spark plugs gaps, wires, gaskets for possible leaks, coil, ignition cap and rotor and still no luck. Apparently that it's not the correct timing as they say.

I know that the crankshaft should align with the mark at the oil pump. I already confirmed it with a TDC tool. My problem is at the camshaft and the ignition.
Where is the correct position for the camshaft's key in the sprocket? Should it go looking up or down? And what is the correct mark on the sprocket that I should align with the valve cover mark? It has like two E's, two I's and also two marks on the outer ring.
After the timing belt is set with all the marks in place, where should my ignition rotor be pointing at? (#1 or #4)

Please, I know that this thread must have been discussed like a million times before, but I really need some help. Any would be very much appreciated.

Thanks

[cmays03]

ok you want to put the gear on so the E mark is lined up with the pin. then you want to take the E mark with the notch for timing to go to the mark on the valve cover. put the timing belt on and then set number 1 cyl to tdc and make sure the valves are closed then make sure dist. is set.

[b16freak]

I was working on my sidekick this morning and put the timing as you said. Now it won't even start. This is what I got so far:

1.Crankshaft pulley mark align with the oil pump housing. And I confirmed with a TDC tool that is on compression stroke. That's OK.
2.I set the camshaft key (pin) on the E marked slot which goes looking down once you set the E mark located at the dented ring matching the mark at the valve cover as you said. Is that OK?
3.I set the ignition so the rotor points at the #1 spark plug cable as you said. In this cased is the cable located at the top of the ignition cap at the right side. Since it rotates to the left, I set it 1342. Which by the way, Is that the correct timing?

As I mention before. Now it won't start. Why? This car has been a mind cracker for me. Before I had it starting on #4 and it started, but with a rough idle. What should I do now? Any help. please!

[b16freak]

It seems that my problem is in the ignition and wires setting. I just tried to start it by setting the rotor to #4 as I herd while the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft are in TDC and still won't start. I just checked and I do have spark.
I saw pictures and of how the wires are supposed to fit in the ignition cap. I also searched the web and everybody indicates that the firing order is 1-3-4-2. I tried firing beginning from the #1 also #4 as I saw in the forum and still won't work.
Anybody has some pictures on can tell me where to set the rotor when the TDC is set? I really need some help on this one. I have lost the count of how many cars I have fixed during the years, but this one is a brain smoker, for some reason and the funny thing is that it lacks on technology. It's just a simple little SOHC engine. WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It most be something stupid that I'm underestimating or not paying attention at it.

[cmays03]

it sounds like you did it right. did you try to rotate the plug wires on the cap 180 maybe thats all it is. or did you say u tried that not sure?

[obradleyo]

ok so I recently re built the head on my zuk also. Its was my frist time doing a job this big and every body here helped so much. It sounds like your doing the same thing wrong i was. Its timed at tdc #4 It took me 3 days to get it right.
so after you set the cam to the e mark are rotating the crank 360 before putting the roter at #1? cuz that is what i couldn't understand.

Here is a link to the thread where jerry helped me .....good luck
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...lp-please.html

[b16freak]

So let me get this straight.
1.I'm supposed to align my crankshaft pulley mark with the oil pump mark at the housing.
2.Then set the camshaft key at the center slot E on the camshaft pulley (looking down at 6:00 o clock) and the outer E mark on the ring align with valve cover.
3.Put the timing belt and adjust the tensioner.
4.Rotate it 180 degrees so the E mark ends up looking down and then set my ignition so the rotor points at 1:00 o clock (estimated).
5.And finally set the spark plugs wires 1-3-4-2 beginning with #1 from the top, right side, obviously in counterclockwise then #3 so and so.

It's that it? Please anybody that has done this before confirm my information. I just read this on another post. I just want to be sure.

[obradleyo]

that sounds about right!!

Her it is in more detail
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...-please-5.html

the frist post there its explained in detail



IS you CEL on at all I had issues with my TPS while trying to restart it

[jtgh]

Originally Posted by b16freak

So let me get this straight.
1.I'm supposed to align my crankshaft pulley mark with the oil pump mark at the housing. yes, bottom mark up , key UP..
2.Then set the camshaft key at the center slot E on the camshaft pulley (looking down at 6:00 o clock) and the outer E mark on the ring align with valve cover. KEY DOWN , E up. notch above E on tooth UP to back cover mark at 12pm . << unambiguous ,right



3.Put the timing belt and adjust the tensioner.

3a: rotate crank 2 turns CW, and then freeze the tensioner bolt.
lock tension last ,not before.!!! you are still on #4 TDC.
1,3,4,2 ( 180 more is 2 so you are wrong below)
4b:now rotate 360degress landing on TDC #1.
now note where dizzy rotor points. this is #1

4.Rotate it 180 degrees CW so the E mark ends up looking down and then set my ignition so the rotor points at 1:00 o clock (estimated).
5.And finally set the spark plugs wires 1-3-4-2 beginning with #1 from the top, right side, obviously in counterclockwise then #3 so and so.

It's that it? Please anybody that has done this before confirm my information. I just read this on another post. I just want to be sure.

no wrong. is a 16v, it rotates opposite of 8v ,the dizzy.

why dont my page work.
here.

see next post, i could correct above, a mess.

[jtgh]

as trixy says, welcome to the forum. ( my pages have this proc. and links to OEM procedure. so avoid the store rags like)
chuck the Haynes.

it shows both engines at the same time MIXED and gets all wrong. and has horrible photos. The Haynes is good for great warnings.

16v fast tbelt swap

that is the belt procedure above. (CRANK KEY UP , CAM KEY DOWN or it is WRONG !!!)

next is Dizzy ( forget belt it is done ) below:

you got the 1 pm part right on rotor , and the direction of the dizzy wrong. not good.

and the crank firing wrong. well the degrees wrong.
1,3,4,2, < order. no secret.

All 4 cyl. fire after 2 rotations.
one cyl, fires every 180 degress. ( so to go from 4 firing to 1 firing, its 360 degrees CW ,skipping past #2)
so after completing the Tbelt install and then doing the required !2 tensioning revolutions then you are back to square one, TDC #4 firing , right ? Right out of book and true.

Firing order: 1,3,4,2
Belt done? , happy with Key way positions and sitting at TDC #4 firing , all valves closed #4? , then ?

right now you are at TDC 4, rotate crank 180deg. now you are at 2, rotate 180deg more now you are at 1.
see? 360 = 180+180.

at this point examine crank for being at TDC index 0 marker ( key and mark up to oil pump pointer, see photos on my pages.)

now drop the dizzy in its hole. so rotor is at 1pm and the cap #1 aligns perfectly with rotor, lock dizzy down.
now lay down the wires CCW (16v is CCW) and go 1, 3,4,2


done.

verrrrooommmmmm

LAST:
now set timing exact with electronic strobe lamp. (insert freeze jumper In DLC or its a waste of time) as how to freeze it or read my timing page.

on all modern EFI cars , timing bounces all over like mad, at idle, ( it does this so car is very efficient and does not waste fuel like carb's)
on these cars one freezes the ECU timing Brain, and you set the timing to spec.

once you do that , then ECU knows from this point forward, where 0 degree's, resides and uses this for all calculations. (timing)

on newer cars , there is no dizzy and all timings are fixed, not adjustable. Precision cam and crank sensors , do this for free.

Example of this is 1998 1.8L sport Kick.