1.6L 8v conversion to a 16v ect.

Badgerfan3121 · 07-14-2009, 09:45 AM

Hay, iv got a 1.6L 8v 91' geo tracker 4x4 automatic. I want to drop in a bigger motor, what would be the easyest but bigger then what i got. I wanted to get a lil more hp and tourq for a litl less gas il be ok. i was just thinking a 16v out of a litl bit newer one, but also i was thinkin a new like 2000 up motor, idk tell me what you guys think. Also what will i have to change, if i just did the 16v will i have to change the computer and the wireing harness. Thanks

Brock · 07-14-2009, 05:55 PM

I used a '98 engine in my '91 Tracker. OBD-II FTW!
You will need a new wiring harness and ECU. Make sure you have the wiring diagrams for both vehicles, because you will probably need to splice a few things - the switches on the steering column, the ac/heater controls, the rear section of the wiring, etc. Unless of course you manage to get the whole dash and complete head to tail wiring harness (the back section would be a hassle to replace anyway).
Don't make the same mistake I did though. If the engine is coming from a junkyard, replace all the major maintenance stuff (head gasket and belt). My head gasket had a leak and I ended up hydro locking a cylinder bending my connecting rod after about 10,000 miles.
If your current motor still runs, I'd suggest completely rebuilding the new one you want to put in.
There's probably some other people on here who are more experienced mechanics than me, but I have done the swap before, so if you run into trouble, you can email me whenever - BrokenSlinky@gmail.com

Badgerfan3121 · 07-14-2009, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brock

I used a '98 engine in my '91 Tracker. OBD-II FTW!
You will need a new wiring harness and ECU. Make sure you have the wiring diagrams for both vehicles, because you will probably need to splice a few things - the switches on the steering column, the ac/heater controls, the rear section of the wiring, etc. Unless of course you manage to get the whole dash and complete head to tail wiring harness (the back section would be a hassle to replace anyway).
Don't make the same mistake I did though. If the engine is coming from a junkyard, replace all the major maintenance stuff (head gasket and belt). My head gasket had a leak and I ended up hydro locking a cylinder bending my connecting rod after about 10,000 miles.
If your current motor still runs, I'd suggest completely rebuilding the new one you want to put in.
There's probably some other people on here who are more experienced mechanics than me, but I have done the swap before, so if you run into trouble, you can email me whenever - BrokenSlinky@gmail.com

K, thanks, um did u first have a 8v engine. also where do i get a wireing harness. or do i have to pull it all out my self. What all do i need to pull. Do you have any wireing diagrams that you used. any other info. i will need. I can most likely replace the whole dash with mine. do i have to get diffrent engine mounts. and did you get any more power or gas mileage with the swap. thanks

Brock · 07-15-2009, 04:23 AM

Mine was a '91 Tracker with the 8 valve, just like yours. I think I got the wiring harness from Hawk Strictly Suzuki... It's not on their site though. I had to call them for it. 1-888-samurai (1-888-726-8724).
You might be better off taking one yourself from a local you-pull-it yard. Hawk Suzuki charged $300 and sent me one from an automatic, so I had to splice it to override the neutral switch. Also, the connection to the blinkers don't match anything I've seen before (X-90?), so I don't have any blinkers. If you pull it yourself, you'll get to see where everything goes and know exactly what vehicle it came from. If you don't mind the check engine light being on and don't mind splicing some wires, you can re-use the rear section of you original wiring.
If you want the CEL to stay off... you'll need the complete wiring (including rear section), the fuel tank (it has a pressure sensor to tell you when the gas cap is bad), and the evap canister (with purge sensor) - all from an OBD-II ('96 or newer) vehicle. The motor will run the same without this stuff. It's just sensors to tell you when your vehicle might fail emissions. Since your vehicle is older than '96, they won't run the OBD-II test on it for emissions and won't care that your check engine light is on (they do the test on the rollers. It's a breeze to pass as long as you have a catalytic converter because of the MFI on the newer engine)
You may as well get the ECU from the vehicle too; and the dash if you can get it home.
If you're ordering a motor from somewhere else, get any pieces you'll need to complete it (probably most of the sensors)... you might need the alternator brackets too. I had to use spacers to move my original alternator bracket (until I got the GM alternator kit).
If you're going to use the motor in that vehicle, try to get everything. You need the entire exhaust system too (I just got one from Calmini, but had to fabricate a small section of it where the cat goes)
Don't forget the MAF either. You may as well take the airbox if it's still there (I want one, but had to use a cone filter)
Just keep in mind that any vehicle in a junkyard probably ended up there for a reason; you might need to make repairs and replace some parts.
There also might be some things I've forgotten, but you'll notice them as you come across them (I'm sure I didn't miss much).
I used the wiring diagrams from either the Haynes or Chilton manual. I don't know if there's anywhere online to find them and I don't have a scanner.

Both 16 valve and 8 valve motors use the same motor mounts.
It had WAY more power with the new engine. The factory ratings were 80hp for the 8 valve and 95 hp for the 16 valve (18.75% difference). I'm sure the Calmini exhaust didn't hurt either (their website claims a 15-18% increase in power from that, but I never trust a company to be honest about how much power a part can make). It's kinda loud with that exhaust and a cone filter (I'm hoping it'll quiet down with the stock airbox), but if power is what you crave and you're willing to go through the trouble of a motor swap to get it, I say get the Calmini system.
I think my fuel economy went down, but I can't verify that because I disconnected my odometer (the speedometer from the gauge cluster I took was broken and uses the same cable as the odometer. It kept clicking at me while it was connected.)
Some extra things I would've done if I had the budget to at the time of my swap - rebuild (would've saved me some trouble now) and an aftermarket camshaft (more power - lots of manufacturers and ranges to choose from)

Badgerfan3121 · 07-15-2009, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brock

Mine was a '91 Tracker with the 8 valve, just like yours. I think I got the wiring harness from Hawk Strictly Suzuki... It's not on their site though. I had to call them for it. 1-888-samurai (1-888-726-8724).
You might be better off taking one yourself from a local you-pull-it yard. Hawk Suzuki charged $300 and sent me one from an automatic, so I had to splice it to override the neutral switch. Also, the connection to the blinkers don't match anything I've seen before (X-90?), so I don't have any blinkers. If you pull it yourself, you'll get to see where everything goes and know exactly what vehicle it came from. If you don't mind the check engine light being on and don't mind splicing some wires, you can re-use the rear section of you original wiring.
If you want the CEL to stay off... you'll need the complete wiring (including rear section), the fuel tank (it has a pressure sensor to tell you when the gas cap is bad), and the evap canister (with purge sensor) - all from an OBD-II ('96 or newer) vehicle. The motor will run the same without this stuff. It's just sensors to tell you when your vehicle might fail emissions. Since your vehicle is older than '96, they won't run the OBD-II test on it for emissions and won't care that your check engine light is on (they do the test on the rollers. It's a breeze to pass as long as you have a catalytic converter because of the MFI on the newer engine)
You may as well get the ECU from the vehicle too; and the dash if you can get it home.
If you're ordering a motor from somewhere else, get any pieces you'll need to complete it (probably most of the sensors)... you might need the alternator brackets too. I had to use spacers to move my original alternator bracket (until I got the GM alternator kit).
If you're going to use the motor in that vehicle, try to get everything. You need the entire exhaust system too (I just got one from Calmini, but had to fabricate a small section of it where the cat goes)
Don't forget the MAF either. You may as well take the airbox if it's still there (I want one, but had to use a cone filter)
Just keep in mind that any vehicle in a junkyard probably ended up there for a reason; you might need to make repairs and replace some parts.
There also might be some things I've forgotten, but you'll notice them as you come across them (I'm sure I didn't miss much).
I used the wiring diagrams from either the Haynes or Chilton manual. I don't know if there's anywhere online to find them and I don't have a scanner.

Both 16 valve and 8 valve motors use the same motor mounts.
It had WAY more power with the new engine. The factory ratings were 80hp for the 8 valve and 95 hp for the 16 valve (18.75% difference). I'm sure the Calmini exhaust didn't hurt either (their website claims a 15-18% increase in power from that, but I never trust a company to be honest about how much power a part can make). It's kinda loud with that exhaust and a cone filter (I'm hoping it'll quiet down with the stock airbox), but if power is what you crave and you're willing to go through the trouble of a motor swap to get it, I say get the Calmini system.
I think my fuel economy went down, but I can't verify that because I disconnected my odometer (the speedometer from the gauge cluster I took was broken and uses the same cable as the odometer. It kept clicking at me while it was connected.)
Some extra things I would've done if I had the budget to at the time of my swap - rebuild (would've saved me some trouble now) and an aftermarket camshaft (more power - lots of manufacturers and ranges to choose from)

K, thanks, u think id be able to just go straight to like a 2.0 in a newer tracker or like one of the v6's in a newer 2000 and up tracker.

Brock · 07-15-2009, 04:30 PM

Checker shows the same part number for the clutch on the '99-'02 Vitara/Grand Vitara, so it should match work with your original transmission. I'm not completely sure if it mounts in the same spot though. If you can get a look at one, just check to see if the motor mounts are in the same place. As long as the motor mounts are in the same place, it should be the same process.
The Grand Vitara 2.5L V-6 is rated at 155hp and 18-22mpg (+93% power, -33% economy)
The Vitara 2.0L I-4 is rated at 120hp and 22-28mpg (+50% power, similar economy)
If you get one of these motors in, I will envy you.

Badgerfan3121 · 07-15-2009, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brock

Checker shows the same part number for the clutch on the '99-'02 Vitara/Grand Vitara, so it should match work with your original transmission. I'm not completely sure if it mounts in the same spot though. If you can get a look at one, just check to see if the motor mounts are in the same place. As long as the motor mounts are in the same place, it should be the same process.
The Grand Vitara 2.5L V-6 is rated at 155hp and 18-22mpg (+93% power, -33% economy)
The Vitara 2.0L I-4 is rated at 120hp and 22-28mpg (+50% power, similar economy)
If you get one of these motors in, I will envy you.

lol, k thanks, but i have a manule trany what should i do about that.

jtgh · 07-15-2009, 11:05 PM

get motor, harness and ecu from old car.

or get the 2.0L kit, much nicer motor.

there is a kit for $1.5k
no motor, but has,
mounts, ecu, harnes skit and clutch adaptors ,etc. just need motor.

see if i can find link. its in here somewhere.

jtgh · 07-15-2009, 11:18 PM

Aftermarket4x4.com...Your Suzuki Specialists

id do 2.0L

nothing less. (nice modern ecu, etc,) chain cam. simular to 1.8L Sport. but upgraded.

you have 3sp automatic?

that is easy, 4sp slushpump not.

jtgh · 07-15-2009, 11:20 PM

why does sig say slushomatic and then you say i have manual? or am i confused, its easy.

Quote:

but i have a manule trany

see link , it cool to stop guessing on parts fit up, the kit shows you , patently what is wrong. nice.....
see parts?

nice how they step by step walk you thru there mod process , so there are no surprises. Nice.... work....

im not an agent, just like their work.