Show us YOUR Hardtop

[Chris Koff]

Ok this morning I used a skinny matt-knife razor blade and cutoff the 'clip" both the receiver and the insert. I masking taped off the glass and body to the molding. I used a pair of rubber surgical type gloves and laid down a good layer of 3M Black weatherstripping adhesive to both pieces. rubber gloves and rubber adhesive - NOT the best combo but it works great before it dries haha. anyhow the glass is back in and I did a pretty good job considering what I had to work with. This is not a permanent solution but I would guess I will get a few months or more out of it. It gives me time to follow up with the 'generic molding' and find a good one. I think I will be able to find something it looks like a pretty easy shape to fill

THANK FOR ALL THE HELP Ole-Boy!! I am off to check your link!!

[Ole-Boy]

My pleasure Chris. Glad you got things sorted out. Atleast you got the glass back in the hole and the top secured again. If I stumble upon a seal that will work, I'll let you in on it too!!

[Izzie]

Do you have any idea where I could find a back window for my 89 sidekick, mine got broken, can you help me in any way?

[Izzie]

I am looking for a rear window for my 89 sidekick, mine got broken and I need help finding one. thought you may be able to help me. Thanks Izzie

[Ole-Boy]

Boy, unless you can find one specifically for your model top, it will be like finding a needle in a haystack (so to speak)

Cheapest practical solution is Lexan. Although it will fade/crack over the years. And theres a reason I don't suggest Acrylic as an alternative. It's cheap..er, but that stuff break way too easily when the temperature's warm. I can't imagine how easy it'd break when it gets cold.

Another alternative, take it to the auto-glass shop and let them make and sent the piece of glass to get tempered for you.

Also, depending on whethere the manufacturer of your top is still in business, I'd check there too.

[Chris Koff]

Originally Posted by Chris Koff

Ok this morning I used a skinny matt-knife razor blade and cutoff the 'clip" both the receiver and the insert. I masking taped off the glass and body to the molding. I used a pair of rubber surgical type gloves and laid down a good layer of 3M Black weatherstripping adhesive to both pieces. rubber gloves and rubber adhesive - NOT the best combo but it works great before it dries haha. anyhow the glass is back in and I did a pretty good job considering what I had to work with. This is not a permanent solution but I would guess I will get a few months or more out of it. It gives me time to follow up with the 'generic molding' and find a good one. I think I will be able to find something it looks like a pretty easy shape to fill

THANK FOR ALL THE HELP Ole-Boy!! I am off to check your link!!

yesterday it rained pretty hard and constant.... my window replacement job did well no leaks!!!

(no the car was not parked in the garage!!)

[Chris Koff]

Ok.... my rear glass window seal glue job held for awhile but now is loosening.

Ole-boy did you ever find a molding that fits our rear glass?

[Ole-Boy]

I never did find anything for a seal. Although I'm sure something can be found, somewhere. It may take time to find the correct one that will work for the specific application. Surely there's something out there.

If you could provide a good picture of the end of the seal, (side view) that would really help right now.

Go to the below link. Click on the left "Universal Parts" for a seal that will work for you. I can't tell you exactly what will work. If I had a piece of it in my hands with your window out and in front of me, it would be simple.

Metro Moulded Parts Inc. Automotive Weatherstrip and Rubber Parts

You'll have to take measurements;

thickness of back door where seal slips over.
Depth of the recess (glass-to-seal)
Height of lip on window opening (to determine there will be enough rubber support to hold glass correctly)