Okay now you got me thinking... and its a slow sunday.
I need to remove, clean up and replace all (3) pieces of glass in this original factory hard top. what is the black weatherstrip sealant? does in come in a squeezable tube or is it a big tube like a caulking gun? I had a glass guy look at it and he wanted to charge me $200 to remove and replace/reseal. Doesn't seem like too expensive but money is tight and it looks like a job I could do myself. Looks like 3 strips of rubber; (1) inside metal edge cover (1) glass to structure and (1) outside -glass to body seal
I have replaced front and back glass on an olds cutlass and a side fixed glass on a toyota coupe... all had a gooey strip seal and a clip on chrome trim...
For the side windows, I'd suggest you get the caulking-gun size. The windows are going to be a bear to get out. Which justifies the $200.00 cost from the glass guy. The glass people use a seal-slicer. One of them can be made fairly easily. Get two pieces of dowel 6' long. then get a steel (not wrapped) guitar string. Tie-wrap one end onto the middle of a dowel, leave the other end loose for now. Get a drill and a long 1/8" drill bit, or a long ice-pick. Bore a hole through the seal on the inside-front, parallel with the glass, enough to feed the guitar wire through the hole. Once that's done, tie the other end to the other dowel. (have someone help you) Use the wire like a saw, and very slowly work your way around the perimiter of the glass to cut the seal loose from the glass. Same both sides, then scrape off all the excess before ANY adhesive. Also have a roll for good/sticky tape and several spring clamps to hold it in place after the windows get set. Apply about a 1/2" bead of adhesive, 1/2" from the interior edge of the glass,. Then another bead the same size 1/2" inside of that. Then set it in place. Also, some paint thinner and a few rags for any clean-up will be good to have around.
Note: Let it cure 24 hours before placing the top back on.
As far as the back window goes, it's held in place with a compression-type seal (no sealant) GENTLY push on a corner area of the glass. You'll notice the seal moves. You'll have to get it started by working the seal outwards, and also working around the whole seal while maintaining pressure to keep it from going back into place. It will take some time to get it out. Main thing is, don't break it. Be extra careful.
If you ever removed a rear window from the cab of a pick-up, same scenario with the hardtop back window.
To get the back window in place again, a good heavy cord 1/8" diameter. A loop tied in one end. Make the cord about 3 feet longer than the circumferance of the seal. Wrap the cord around the seal, and pull the end through the loop. Set the loop so it's at a corner of the seal.With help....set the window from the outside against the opening. Start a corner of the seal and get it into the opening. Work it as far as you can with your fingers, while having your helper hold pressure in that direction so the seal doesn't pop-out. When you can't get anymore of the seal where you need to with your fingers, press carefully, but firmly in on the glass towards the hole. Start pulling on the cord and it will open the seal and pull it inside the frame opening ...theoretically.
The back window will cause you some headache. But if my explanation makes any sense, you'll get it in within a couple two or three tries.
As far as the weather strip goes, around the back opening, if it's in one piece, just clean it up with soap and water. Once clean, apply a light film of petroleum jelly all over it, then wipe it off. Same for the seal that mates with the base of the top.
Whatever you do, don't be like 3/4's of the idiots out there and use clear silicone to seal ANYTHING!!! That crap doesn't do squat!!
The side windows seem much harder than the rear, and since my rear is practically falling out already I think I might try it first. If I do ok and feel confident and have the energy I will try the sides later... I have plenty of guitar strings.
Uh boy. I got the rear glass out pretty easy, because it was pretty loose at a couple of spots. That was one of the reasons I decided to take on this project I was scared I would loose the back glass. so the exterior molding came out pretty easy and clean but it looks like it has been repaired before in a couple of spots. and there was one spot where I had to cut through some dried repair goop. I got the inner and outer molding(s) out pretty well and cleaned everything up. I starting trying to replace the glass. there is no way I am going to be able to do a good job getting this back together. there is not enough good molding that will 'clip' together to get a VERY GOOD seal. the 'clip' between the 2 moldings is very small - seem a very poor design.
I could probably get 1/2+ clipped in and goop up the rest, or try using a new window seal coil in the 'seat' but I dont think I will get a good result using the existing molding. Bummer situation. I guess I am off to go see if I can find some type of custom replacement molding.... what a pain.
Sorry to hear that Chris. I was a bit suspicious looking at the back right lower corner of the back door. The seal appeared to have shrunk or something.
Don't sweat it though. As Mickey.D mentions, the local automotive glass shop in your area can help you out on that. They should have it in bulk....and in stock.
More than likely they'll have it in stock. Take a piece with you for reference to show them. When you buy it, get about 6" more than you need so you can compress the joint where it comes together. Put the seal in by itself first. Tape it to stay if you have to, but get that seal tightly around the circumference of the hole, then add about 3/8" to that length. When you do the actual install, put the seam at the bottom/middle andseal it together with weatherstrip adhesive. Plenty of it!!
well, I went to two glass shops and they both gave me a hard time and said go to the dealer. BAH!!! the dealer doesnt even list this 'original factory' hard top. I might have to go find my own generic molding. But I had a thought to try before tossing what I have.
ok so here is my question: is this black weatherstripping/adhesive like the vulcanizing that you use to patch a bicycle tire? you put it on 2 sufaces let it dry then put together and it bonds into one? is it a strong bond?
I was thinking I could cut and trim the molding I have, to a flatter join (cut off the rubber 'clip' that just doesnt have enough clip left and bond the two well mating pieces with the adhesive? or is the adhesive not going to be strong enough, even with a good surface to surface match?
Vulcanizing....Yes, same method. It IS strong, but not sure if it will work for what you're trying to do.
I'll do some looking for you to see what I can find for a seal.
After some searching, seals ARE available for what you want to do. Just need to find a source.
As far as the Glass-Shop guys go, I wouldn't have expected an answer of anything more if they didn't have it IN STOCK. Cripes, they deal with rubber seals on a daily basis. IMHO....they're being lazy and don't want to look through their distributor catalogs. Generic seal (by the foot) is out there.
EDIT
OK, I went out and looked at the back window of my top and how it stays-put. If your top is identical to mine, the rear glass is actually recessed (flush) to the exterior of the door. Which is a good thing. The rubber moulding is simply a U-Channel (wrapped around the glass) with an exterior flange to trim it out. Sounds to me that you need to eliminate it all together, and adhere the glass as if doing the side glass method as I explained earlier on. Just remember to clean-up excess and it will look fine.
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89 sidekick factory hard top glass seals
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