full tune up. (cap ,rotor,wires, plugs) and fuel filter. ( dizzy is not bad , im sure)
disconnect MAF and try to see if the ECU mimic mode of a missing MAF helps. I disconnected, and no difference.. (what do I look for? I'm still learning)
does it bog hot and cold motor ( top test )
Yes it does, cold, warm, hot
cracked exhaust manifold can cause gross lean OR gross rich. (pull top shield and look)
depends on how much carbon lays down on top of 02 sensor element.
unplug O2 sensor connector and drive it.
It this besides the exhaust manifold? will check this evening
this forces EFI out of attempt of closed loop and car now runs strickly off MAF hot.
this is the Intrinsic AFR of your motor.
in this mode out of factor car is a tiny bit rich ( if not you have 2 problems)
the normal EFI always subtracts fuel. ( that is the goal) on average.
as per previous post. timing. IGN !
if timing is way off, over 2deg. do not set it. (need freeze timing jumper to set it ,ask) specialty tool? have only basics, no fancy tools here
this is proof positive that the Timing belt has slipped. ( damage will happen if it slips more)
I don't have a lot of choice for mechanic, etc... will be big $$ (if they have manuals, etc on hand)
id never drive any 16v that bogged,until
i validated:
1 timing belt , cam timing . (cam belt cover removed ,eye balls on marks)
belt inspection (frayed?)
2: tightened crank pulley center bolt to 94ft/lbs( TSB revision!!!) and determined setting actual as it did it. (i use beam torque wrench for that) where was mine.
10 ft/lbs ( panic)
50 ? kinda stock so ok add TSB rule.
94 ? your last mech reads TSB's he is Hero.
step 3: then set igntion timing last .
that is my proc. , it is to save a good viable motor from destruction.
that is, pistons hitting valves, bye bye head, pistions, rod bearings and worse.
Will try the basics first... order filters, cap, rotor. Not alot of mechanic expertise up here. Not sure if I can have proper test to check timing, but can order parts like rotor, etc... disconnected MAF; what do I look for? no difference in power. Will try the 02 disconnect. Thanks again
ok ,no diff in power, you are saying the motor has no power on hills
right? MAF unplugged. (clear maf error when dead by pulling dome fuse above left knee)
this tells me its Not the $600 bad MAF, nice test.
compression readings on all 4 cycl.
and were is the timing.?
i bet any good shop anywere , as at least 2 tools.
a compression guage. and an inductive timing light.
if the timing (IGN) is way off, stop and attack the cam shaft timing.
if the the cam shaft is off , one must:
1: look at belt, the timing belt on cam. (visual on condition and marks)
2: then look to see if it slipped a tooth ( yes? DO NOT DRIVE CAR!) or risk loss of motor.
3: if belt looking ok. check timing. on cam and crank for perfect alignemnt.
if ok , then just check the 17mm crank pulley torque.
if it is ok at 94lbs. (and not 5,10 20 or 55 lbs) then set it to 94.
if I see any below 90, i immediately inspect the crank keyway
but if at 55. and all ease was perfect, timing , ALL,
then set it to 94 and enjoy your motor.
on this old car, if the crank pulley bolt 17mm head. looks origional.
here is my best advice.
put a brand new bolt in , now.
they streatch and will kill the motor. ( i think they are good for 100k max)
want mine, hahhahahahah
these are nice motors.,just keep the crank bolt fresh and at 94 lbs/ft.
and they will run great.
you motor is sick.
could be lots of things.
clogged injectors. partial clogged cat.
tune up is (generic answer to all bad running motors and is dead accurate)
ground wire on left back light is not grounded... actually, the whole wiring showing, rusted around the tire... one problem might be solved this evening
Might buy a compressioni tester too.... Local guy with same car saying he might sell his 94 or 95 Sidekick AT 4 door JLX; what should I expect to pay; he can't figure out why it's not running (might be fuel pump)
that is a perfect tool, any inductive stobe no matter how cheap, will work.
doent by a neon lamp, a real strobe. Xenon. and inductive pickup , do not use the kick that require physical electric contacts. the red dealybob on end is inductive clamp.
A#1
compression guage can go for like $15 to $30.
pay $500 if good compression
100 bad.
even more if i can move under its own power.
or just add 500 to what the engineless body is worth
rusty bodies have almost no value.
but take my advice with grain of salt as i do not know your market.
cheers.
that is a perfect tool, any inductive stobe no matter how cheap, will work.
doent by a neon lamp, a real strobe. Xenon. and inductive pickup , do not use the kick that require physical electric contacts. the red dealybob on end is inductive clamp.
A#1
compression guage can go for like $15 to $30.
pay $500 if good compression
100 bad.
even more if i can move under its own power.
or just add 500 to what the engineless body is worth
rusty bodies have almost no value.
but take my advice with grain of salt as i do not know your market.
cheers.
Few wks ago, I was offered a rusted, motor seized... etc for $500, this one alot better shape than mine... hmmm what to do
I'll order the timing light, compression tester. I managed to chech the timing belt, etc... looks like it needs a replacement, all cracked up. I have read somewhere here China brand not good; ordered complete gasket kit; says Made in China Will have to order/find a timing cover too.
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Will have to order/find a timing cover too.
Linear Mode
