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Old 08-02-2009, 10:21 PM   #51 (permalink)
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its coming back from the dead , hurrraaaayyy
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Old 08-03-2009, 07:39 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Default A font of knowledge, you are...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jtgh View Post
its flooding.

1; no hyper fuel pressure not sure
2: no leaking injector TBI oil 0 rings. could be; looks very wet; witchunter can fix?
2a: the 3 seconds is for fuel pump, then shortly, a very fast priming pump.
if you see fuel flowing key on , injector is bad, or O-rings cracked or shrunk from age. no fuel flowing w/key'on'

3: ECT reading 10,000 ohms all the time. or some value that is not open circuit (as that would trip DTC for this. ) 10k is like Klondyke viles. North pool and rich as a piggy.
2180 ohms
if egr is closed, its ok for now.

forgive me if i ask you to check something already tested. just ignore it.

you can appy 12vdc to the ISC and toggle it. good test.
even look at it. I have a video of it being tested.
seems to click/work
Index of /sensors/tests/videos
pick one , wmv loads faster

play any tune you want , hahahah

ok just be clean, and snappy. on the ISC.

next:
on this motor , it is manditory that the DASH pot be open (pushing throttle open)
as you start the motor, (this air is critical or motor will flood , instantly) will check

there are the floowing sources of air.
IAC base of TB (open below 150f) ???
ISC electric,
DASHPOT for 3 to 30 seconds, (3 sec, in summer is typical)
and the throttel stop. (must never be moved ,have spec if some one did. 2 factory setting seem to be untouched
and last the idle bleed screw.

cheers.

PS, flooding can be too much fuel or too little air at start.
Looking like the TBI leaking?
or dashpot?

Remembering this was running good when pulled, what is more likely to fail from sitting w/o use?
Gummed up TBI?
What controls dashpot?

The only other variable is the fuel pressure. It is being fed from an in-tank samurai FI pump. I have a tester, but as there is no port, where to hook up?

Thanks; won't be long now-I hope.
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Old 08-03-2009, 01:56 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Default 1991 8v Frankensammi (with kick motor upgrade)

ECT 2180 ohms is about 73deg F, (in the range) sound right?
dont know if this is overnight test or after a 3 hour cool off or?
best is to ohm them before first start in AM. both IAT an ECT and both will read the same because they equalized over night.
a really good test. then tell me ambient temp. at that moment.

Frankenkick issues:
this car has a SAMMI fuel pump, or?

car most not have a high powered pump ,it must push a value for the KICK
FPREG.

someone puts in a HD pump ,the little tiny FPreg will be overwhelmed.

The fuel pressure must be tested. anytime car is rich.
it is easy, just go to harbor freight and snatch up the $17 kit.
all auto stores rent them for like $5, (worth salt)

ISC when it clicks blow thru the air tube(top) and feel it open then close.
its just an air valve, (pistion, coil, piston, and seat)
DP:
at key on, the ECU leaves the Dash pot extened and car has extra air for starting.
then it start, then the ecu counts potatoes for number of seconds based on
ECT readings. if hot day the seconds are 3 . if North pole , way longer , 30 seconds or more.

yes the ECU controls the dash pot with its very own VSV.
here.
http://www.kick-fix.com/sensors/8v-sensors.JPG
part ID . 11

Pressure. ?

you are missing the stock fuel filter , which has the test port on the side banjo fitting.
you messed up. now you can test pressure.

no fuel rail in a TBI.


sorry, the iac looks like this.
and opens up , proportional to the water temperature.

IAC-thermo testing

this is off my Racing page ( extreme idle speed, = racing)

see the IAC actual , lid off. it rarely fails but must be working.
ignore lower photo. its 16v IAC.
if have spares so dont worry about buying one if bad. free.

this is a wax pellet driven device, wax expands radically with temperature.
just like the cars thermostat but this is for air.

this is device is what makes the car slowly lower its IDLE when cold.
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Old 08-03-2009, 01:58 PM   #54 (permalink)
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i always ignore runnings when pulled comments.

i will assume the motor can pump air .little else. or we will chase tail.
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Old 08-03-2009, 01:59 PM   #55 (permalink)
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every car needs a fuel pressure test port. all EFI.
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Old 08-03-2009, 02:00 PM   #56 (permalink)
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i might add.
if you do buy the HF , fuel kit is COMES with a nice fuel rail port test fitting.

they have a T block just for frankenkicks..

its in the RAGU.
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Old 08-03-2009, 02:13 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtgh View Post
ECT 2180 ohms is about 73deg F, (in the range) sound right?
dont know if this is overnight test or after a 3 hour cool off or? sitting overnight; cold
best is to ohm them before first start in AM. both IAT an ECT and both will read the same because they equalized over night.
a really good test. then tell me ambient temp. at that moment.

Frankenkick issues:
this car has a SAMMI fuel pump, or?
sammi in-tank pump
car most not have a high powered pump ,it must push a value for the KICK
FPREG.

someone puts in a HD pump ,the little tiny FPreg will be overwhelmed.

The fuel pressure must be tested. anytime car is rich.
it is easy, just go to harbor freight and snatch up the $17 kit.
all auto stores rent them for like $5, (worth salt)
I have a tester, but where can I connect it?
ISC when it clicks blow thru the air tube(top) and feel it open then close.
its just an air valve, (pistion, coil, piston, and seat)
DP:
at key on, the ECU leaves the Dash pot extened and car has extra air for starting.
then it start, then the ecu counts potatoes for number of seconds based on
ECT readings. if hot day the seconds are 3 . if North pole , way longer , 30 seconds or more.

yes the ECU controls the dash pot with its very own VSV.
here.
http://www.kick-fix.com/sensors/8v-sensors.JPG
part ID . 11

Pressure. ?

you are missing the stock fuel filter , which has the test port on the side banjo fitting. correct
you messed up. now you can test pressure.

no fuel rail in a TBI. correct


sorry, the iac looks like this.
and opens up , proportional to the water temperature.

IAC-thermo testing

this is off my Racing page ( extreme idle speed, = racing)

see the IAC actual , lid off. it rarely fails but must be working.
ignore lower photo. its 16v IAC.
if have spares so dont worry about buying one if bad. free.

this is a wax pellet driven device, wax expands radically with temperature.
just like the cars thermostat but this is for air.

this is device is what makes the car slowly lower its IDLE when cold.
Where to connect tester for FP?
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Old 08-03-2009, 02:14 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtgh View Post
i might add.
if you do buy the HF , fuel kit is COMES with a nice fuel rail port test fitting.

they have a T block just for frankenkicks.. What do you mean?

its in the RAGU.
you're so cryptic; 'in the RAGU' ?!?!?!
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Old 08-03-2009, 02:29 PM   #59 (permalink)
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- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices


see shinny alum. T fitting. this can be mounted perminantly.
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Old 08-03-2009, 02:36 PM   #60 (permalink)
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sorry .

IN THE RAGU Sauce "Sorry" just joking. with you.

Ragú® Pasta Sauce - Easy Nutritious Dinner Ideas, Kid-Friendly, Budget Recipes

its in there somewhere. what is its, who knows. just a joke.


the KIT (pressrue test kit) comes with a nice T fitting.

if you dont have stock OEM filter Fuel set up then your next choice is
after market filter with built in test port
or use the HF , fuel tester kit , free comes with "T" fitting.

put it , behind the fuel filter line. so that any clogged fillter will show too high pressure.

tank, pump,,,>>>>> line >>> T block>>>>filter,,, Rail, Injector, FPREG.

http://www.kick-fix.com/INJECTORS/TBI-map.JPG

off my pumpage

you can do this RIGHT.
http://www.kick-fix.com/INJECTORS/TBI-conn-1w.jpg

this too is on my pump page.

clear no?
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