...DIY CEL? & CAS question...

[jtgh]

the suppressor is marked S.N.

my connector here has shell damage. its just a spare.

if you need pinout , schematic, have it.



http://www.kick-fix.com/ECU/only-for-spark.jpg

here is my simplified spark drawing.

this is only for bench testing , but clearly shows the minimum things that need to be wired to get spark.

and when wired like this , you will get lots of sensor fails (missing). ECT, IAT, ect. but spark still happens.

[ecoast]

Yep.
Suppressor/filter is there and connected properly.

Waiting on ECU repair...

[jtgh]

Most ECU fails are:
bad caps.

blow injector driver.

and NO PROBLEM FOUND IN ECU.

(NPF's) are bad power to ECU, bad input to ecu. bad motor,
shorted Vehicle harness.

[ecoast]

ECU coming back to me today...fingers crossed!

[ecoast]

NFG!

when I test the CAS standing alone (like the video you made), it flashes...
When I test from your page--'Pull the ECU "A" connector (cream or white color) and insert the Green LED wire above in to the A13 harness connector.
Crank the engine , the LED must flash 2 times per Revolution of the engine.'
....nothing.

I have voltage @ coil blk/wht.

I will have to start over testing tomorrow, and that does not mean my ECU is repaired either.
I wanna say the f word at the top of my lungs right now.

[jtgh]

sorry for your grief ! dead EFI can be a real pistol to work with.
I must keep in mind this is a Frankenkick and anything is possible.

NO SPARK ? or No Injection, I forgot? both , right? 8v motor, 91 or newer.
If you have 89/90 parts, please stop and say so, they are no good.

i recommend getting a analog voltmeter and back probe the signal out of the Dizzy.
make sure it switchs to zero and to near 5v,for every pass of the 4 pole shoes in dizzy
the dizzy cap must be off to see this. see it work with no issues.

Keep HV lead of coil connected to a dummy spark plug.
make sure there is no metal filings in side the Dizzy base , attracted to the magnets.

it must have a full swing.

if it does that, GOOD.
then check for code 41/42 while cranking,

No codes, then make sure you have spark, if no spark then bad ignitor or coil.


id be very sure the ECU is wired to the ignitor and coil exactly like my drawing shows.

http://www.kick-fix.com/ECU/91-95-TB...matic-base.jpg


we can fix.

make sure the suppressor is wired exactly like shown.
its pins must NOT be swapped.


all the best to you, and chin up , we can do it.

cheers.

[jtgh]

i see your profile,, 91 8v.

I need your ECU pn..

xxxxxx - 56B30 , right?

[jtgh]

a backwards wired TPS will kill injection but not spark

http://www.kick-fix.com/ECU/only-for-spark.jpg

my spark page.
THe TPS can not kill spark only injections.

i can make the above work on a test bench.
a 12vdc power supply or battery a few wires.

hard parts is hooking up coil and ignitor, without connectors.

do you need the ohms test for the coil
do you need to know how to test ignitor.

the ignitor can be tested in car and make spark with ECU removed.

I am sure I have no spark

see comment about 150 ohm resistor

pull ecu conns.
key on.
jump a 150 ohm resistor to Pin A12 to B7 or B9(power)
the coil most spark a spark plug connected to its large tower lead. (no dizzy cap)

apply 12v with the jump resistor, hold for 1 second, when you release the jump ,
a huge high voltage happens, do not be touching coil.
do not touch the resistor with fingers when you do this as the back EMF can be 400v.
just insulted jumper leads. with aligator clips.
put paper click in the 2 ECU connector pins.
the clip lead to B9, then the other clip lead to the resistor.
then insert the end of the resistor to A12 pin, with fingers touching only plastic of the clip lead. see?

this back EMF only hurts a little , not like the coil which is deadly.

ask questions.

this is called hot wiring the coil.

cheers.

[jtgh]

if ECU is good. lest concentrate on the car wiring and coil and dizzy.

do all the proof tests, 1 by one, we will find it.

[ecoast]

Thanks, Jerry. I was po'd yesterday and had no time delve back into it.

Don't know if ECU is good, but I have another inbound for early next week.
I will dutifully go thru your post and troubleshoot tonight/next few days- it WILL run, and I bet it's something silly....was a good runner when removed; I am certain. I will test the components and then acertain the harness is correct.
Yes, frankenkick, so as I have only visually inspected harness runs, I will now also meter end-to-end to assure continuity.
I will check dizzy timing even though it was not removed (I will check w/ PO).
Thanks for the 'shot in the arm'...