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Old 06-29-2009, 10:18 PM   #11 (permalink)
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look carefull at wire colors.

look for a stipe.

all black is ground.
some cars are white, others are black/white. but stripe sets the rule.
same with blue, (can be black with blue strip.

you can scope or meter the cas wire (white) on car.
just back probe it.

But.... also you can....
dissy off car:

apply battery 12vdc.
Plus to blue/black wire.
negative to black solid wire. .

then attached the led as shown in the photo to the white or black/white wire.
then spin dizzy and the LED will flash.
test the led fire by placing it across the battery.
observe polarity on the LED , exactly.

anode goes to power
cathode goes to dizzy.

resistor can be on either end of LED. it is only to limit current.
never connect 12v or any power directly to the white wire or you blow up cas.

that is it.

there should be no cross.

this drawing is dead accurate.
http://www.kick-fix.com/ECU/91-95-TB...matic-base.jpg

black wire pin is for sure ground (no stripes)
if you see a contradition , between my photo and schematic tell me.
and i will valildate it for you,
no problemo.

cheers.
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Old 07-02-2009, 02:15 PM   #12 (permalink)
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OK; put in C111, and checked all 4 points for continuity on both sides of board.

Got a lamp to make CEL, one leg to violet / yel, where does the other leg go?
if it goes to 12v, lamp is illuminated constant...

With plug direct to coil, it makes spark once when you turn key, and a VERY small spark as you tiurn key off...nothing when routed thru cap (cap is new)

suggestions?

What a pita
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Old 07-02-2009, 02:43 PM   #13 (permalink)
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if cas wiggles, back probing it with meter. 5v swing in car. (black/white at dizzy)
then you have bad ECU , ignitor or coil.

CEL lamp goes from B13 pin on ECU to , IGN on , power. CiG/radio fues.
the power wire is black/white. same as coil + wire.

if it glows, you can get it to blick.
reset ecu by pulling power.
then place DLC diag jumper at ground to pin A3. Diag. request it is called.

then crank motor and watch cell with Diag jumped.
look for flashing code 42 and 41. ( tells why it can make spark) these 2 codes.

Trouble Codes OBD1 Suzuki

42 is bad dizzy CMP sender.

41 is dead spark read back, you do have the suppressor wired up , right?
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Old 07-02-2009, 03:24 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Pulled yellow plug from ECU and did test for CAS w/ 12v+ to LED and neg to A13....

No pulses.
Dead CAS?

Hooked up CEL; 3 sec crank, code 42 Dead CAS?

Swap dizzy or is this a separate item? Can I repair?
Any work arounds?

Where to get a CAS, please?
91 specific or what else fits?

Lastly, when I first start to crank, one nice spark @ plug when direct to coil.
Does this mean coil/ignitor may be OK?
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Old 07-02-2009, 03:59 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Correction:
I just tested CAS as follows:
12v to blue/black and LED pos. leg.
White from CAS to neg. leg of LED
Black dizzy wire gounded.

LED illuminates constant.

Flashes while cranking... ?
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Old 07-02-2009, 06:37 PM   #16 (permalink)
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thats a dead dizzy.

i will take my spare wire it identical and test it this evening.

with photos so you can see ALL.

cheers.

one moment please
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Old 07-02-2009, 07:37 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Index of /IGN_timing/video-dizzy


made a vid.

tried 5v and 12v both work, its very flexible ,

AVI file is , cleanest.

FLV is flash video. has water mark. (will correct later)
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Old 07-03-2009, 06:58 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Wow, thanks for that!

Re-checked again, and it is as you have depicted.
I guess when I thought the LED was constant @ rest, it was making contact (like it's supposed to).

SO; it seems, CAS is OK..?

I am getting spark when coil is direct to plug, but only ONCE, when first turn key to crank.

Is there a pic of suppressor on your site?

Thinking I need to change ALL caps in ECU?
Weird that I saw Code 42, yet it seems to test OK?
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Old 07-05-2009, 07:39 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Sent ECU to tech friend from another board.
$30 w/ return ship; should have Monday/Tuesday.
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Old 07-05-2009, 11:51 AM   #20 (permalink)
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late. (sorry)
yes replace the 3 black garbage can looking capacitors. and for sure if they are marked Rubycon. Capacitors. (never seen a blue one leak)

42 dtc.
caused by cranking with Dizzy unplugged. (of course) reset Dome fuse to clear.
or flakey CMP, in that it drops 1 pulse per 6. and bingo throws 42.
ECU dont lie about this, its real. (if caps are good , it dont)

scratching head, ahhh, coil HV lead direct to plug, gotcha.
that says the dizzy is timed 90 degresses off. (in between cap terms)

does dizzy have the flash over LID under the main dizzy top wire CAP.?

if you time in so that TDC happens between #1 and #3 the spark can flash down
past missing "FLASHOVER" lid and destroy a perfectly good CMP.

100,000 volts can do bad things. to you and car. Cmp, Ignitor,ECU.

DIzzy time:
How to set ignition timing

see next post for photo.
but I have the factory harness dwg. FSM.

the Suppressor is on a harness pig tail, directly below the Wiper motor.
it has a white 3 pin socket and the device is , is like 1/2 the size as a Flash thumb memory stick for PC.

it only has a resistor and capacitor in side. 2000 ohms , about.
you can read the resistor with any meter.

what happens is the ECU receives, CMP signals.
with these signals. it generates spark to the ignitor.
the Ignitor is just huge transistor. it charges the Coil to staturation (magnetic)
then the Ignitor shuts off.
at the moment Induction happens , what we call spark.

the primary of the coil kicks back 400vdc spike, called Back EMF.
this signal is captured by the Supressor resistor and is sent to the ECU
at about 40v. the ECU looks for this 40v spick at all times , running, and cranking.

if this Kick back , fails. the ecu dumps injections immediately.

ive bench tested this and even made a coil simulator to make the ecu happy.

this info will help you find your problem.

I think you dizzy is timed wrong.

you need to find true TDC cylinder #1 (both valves closed).
my link shows that.

that is a great deal in ECU fix.
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