1997 Sidekick JX front wheel noise

[Polyeidus]

Hello everyone,

I just found this site today, and I really like what I've been reading. My search has yielded me no answers to my problem.

1997 Sidekick JX, 4 door, 4x4 hardtop, Canada model (according to the VIN)... I don't know about ABS...

When I am driving straight at slow speeds or making right hand turns, my front/driver's side wheel is giving a scraping sound. Naturally, I would think brake pads to be the cause, but I do not have any scraping or grinding sounds when I push the brake pedal. Actually, the scrapping sound goes away when I press the brake pedal.

To me, the sound reminds me of a dry wheel bearing (not constant, but rhythmic), so I began to search online for information about the bearings... I read on here somewhere that the bearings come pre-packaged with the hub assembly... A phone call to my local Suzuki dealer service department confirmed the assembly idea, but the parts department tells me that the bearings and hub are sold separately... Sold separately brings in the issue of pressing them out and then back in... Advanced Auto Parts has the bearings, but not as a part of the hub assembly (they cannot get the hubs)... I can do a lot of things in my backyard, but I do not have a press...

Does my description above sound like it might be a bearings problem, or a caliper problem (outside pad looks good, but I haven't removed the caliper to check the inside pad), or even something else that I should be checking before paying someone to actually replace the bearings for me?

Thank you!
Matt

PS - If anyone has a link to where I can find a shop or parts manual, I would greatly appreciate it!

[jtgh]

welcome!
stop guessing , please. ( the bearings are crush bearings and must be pressed in)

this car is unsafe. until proven other wise. (IMHO)

1: inspect the rotors for cracks, this is always the first step on any disc car. #1 !!

2: inspect brakes and whole front end for damage and lose parts. bad pads.
leaking calipers, damage caliper pins. stuck pistions.
3: check bearings for play.
4: suspension parts (ball joint) for play.

after the safety inspection, take off the locking hubs and drive.
i will assume the lockers are jammed ON.
so drive with them off,
if the sound goes away , you have CV problems. or worse.


if it is bearings
click
swap out of front hub bearings

[jtgh]

you can repack the bearings for $81 (cost of tool)
or
replace them for $200 (including tool)
DYI

labor is another matter.

no one does the 7.5k to 15k service point on the front end. never seen it.

[Polyeidus]

Thank you jtgh!!!

Hmmmm...

This vehicle has 235,500+ miles on it.

After work, I will remove my tie and white shirt, then I will pull my floor jack and stand out of the back of my kick and get to looking at things...

With the jack stand supporting the frame, what tire movement should I be looking for before removing the tire? (Acceptable vs bad movement)

With the tire off, I suspect that I can then accomplish your steps with no problem.

The locking hubs - Using the diagram on the hubs page you linked to, how far do I disassemble things to only remove the lockers so I can drive on it? Do I stop by removing just #6 or do I do #7 as well?

Thank you!
Matt

[jtgh]

REAR:
on rear tire, no play at all , allowed. those are tight ball bearings inside.
they do not give at all. (no play , only easy to spin)
if the bearings on there, go out, the seals die fast after and 90w oil floods the shoes.
just look in side. drums pull via screws placed in the hole there (metric)
drums are cast iron and you cant hit them lest they break.

look for wet, if wet find out if hypoid stink or sweet Glyscerin brake fluid smell.
it will be obvious. what is leaking, if at all.
busted up shoe , or ? keep open mind, they do what they want.
FRONT:
that is high miles , id make sure any car (unk maintenance) check for cracked rotors.
you do not want that. and it is common on high mile cars.

if i suspect noise in front.
my deal with hubs , is that they like to jam up locked in 4wd.
so removing them elliminates the guessing 1/2 the possibilities , gone.

the hub screws.

depends on situation. rust ,ect.

but remove all #7 manual or 13 autos.
or
remove all #6s (man.)
which ever is eaiser, then remove nothing else cept the hub locker base or
just the cap. (autos the whole hub must come off)

doing so , assures the axles can NOT turn under any situation.
that is, the rotation of the wheel /tire can not SPIN the internal axle.!

if this stops the noise, then you know where it is.

just take off #6 if manual hubs, as you can see the autos dont have lid part.

wheels are held on by 16,17,18 and at 175 ft/lbs of force.
make sure grease looks healty, and bearings have no play.

taking off the hubs will no make car unsafe.
it will expose the grease and bearings to the atmosphere which is ok for a test.
just dont ford a stream...heheheheheh

or drive in 3 foot of sand.

inspect all.

cheers.

[Polyeidus]

I guess mentioning that my hubs are manual lock would be important... Sorry I missed that point.

The last time I removed the tires, I did a visual check on the pads, shoes, rotors, and drums... That was about 1,500 miles ago, and before the noises... Unfortunately, I did not check the inner pads on either side. I did not notice any leaking fluids at that time.

30 more minutes until I exchange my keyboard for the wrench...

[jtgh]

id forget history and just look, stuff happens.
we want you safe !

use jack stands . take no risks.

cheers.

[shackwrrr]

alot of brake disc grinding usually goes away with brake application.