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Test 1:
you did check the turn lamp bulbs im sure...
but they cant all be burned out , right?
test 1a: cycle the hazard switch 3 times to be sure it is not stuck half way.
it is a simple system but on cars, it can be a bad module or bad wires.
replacing all the modules will cost about $300 or more.
we could diagnose it ,
or
we could replace each module 1 at a time and pray we fix it.
starting from the cheapest (bulbs) then the id 41 flasher. and then the combo switch.
for many they are now broke and its not fixed.
sometimes its just the trailer wiring shorted.
if iI didn't have a meter , then this is how id proceed,
id use the hot wire technique.
one must make up a jumper wire with an inline 20amp fues. (or 15amp)
keep this ready for tests. (FSM recommendation)
step 2
pull the flasher relay module #41 from dash and unplug it.
see schematic.
see the flasher?
see the pins. now jump pins
see attachments.
schematic
and
loc dwg.
now the test 2 , procedure.
with a paper clip (unwound) jumper the flasher relay pin yel/white (12v is here)
and the green wire , not the flasher itself the socket it came out of.
now
turn ignition to on ,not accessories, but on ,see dash lamps glow.
ok ,you now have power to the turn flasher pin yel/wht.
you could voltmeter this node or use a test light to validate this.?
with the jump placed and key ON.
we can not throw the blinker to Left and then right and the lamps will
glow brightly and not flash,
this tests the path from end to end.
if this passes and the turn fuse dont blow then the flasher is in fact bad.
but making sure there is 12vdc on the yel/white wire , assures you that that the flasher has power.
if by chance this 12v is missing ,then the hazard switch is bad or the combo
directional switch is bad.
you now have all you need to fix this problem.
cheers.
step 2
pull the flasher relay module #41 from dash and unplug it.
cheers.
Hi,
Usually if the signal lights up and not flashing than quite likely the flasher relay module is Bad right? May I know which part of the dash can I find it?
ext. lighting , roard map. all you need is this and meter.
ok 92 , 2dr, would have been nice the motor too. but....
check fuses first as always.
first wiggle crap out of emergancy flasher buttong, (infamous for sticking 1/2 way)
the problem can be grounded out SIGNAL WIRING in BODY. {trailer hack?}
if that is the case (and is most common) then it burns up combo or worse.
make sure signal fuse is NOT OVERFUSED. put in the correct fuse.
i unplug the combo and hot wire the left and right.
then if my hot wire fuse blows, i measure the current with an ampmeter.
doing that saves buying all the parts 2 times.
and #3 DVM can do this magic trick.
as promised.
schematic. (92-95 accurate i think)
see green/red and green/yellow.
pull the combo plug and hot wire these and test the actual load first.
1: do lights work now.
2: do i blow a fues when i hot wire it( shorted trailer wiring?)
3: do the work and draw less than 10 amps total.
trailer conn. is behind left rear tail light. look for mangled wires there first.
the turn sig. flasher gets power on the yell/white wire.
if not check fuse.
if still not , bad combo.
the flasher has a relay or transistor inside? that gates power to the flash circuit , independent of load (hopefully)
so if you can only get it to flash buy hot wiring its output (unplugged )
then it is bad.
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