Hi dont know if you can help but im out of ideas and about to drag this car out in to the paddock and shoot it, im in Australia i have a 1994 suzuki vitara JLX 1.6litre MPI.
We have loads of spark, the engine lights come on when key is on, can hear the fuel pump when it comes on. It has compression, is timed and has fuel, has rail pressure. Still wont go. The entire engine has been rebuilt from the head,rings,fuel regulator, leads, lituary the whole engine is new now, baring the fuel pump and injectors, have spent more on the engine than we did buying the car. The computer has been checked and is believed to be fine.
When it was all put back together it fired on all 4 cylinders for about 10 seconds then droped down to 2 and thats pretty much the best its done. Weve used areostart in it and it fires on all cylinders then back to 2. Fuel comes out of the injectors (is there a way that we can check that with out taking it to a machanic to make sure that the right amount is comming out...) It cranks over fine it just wont start.....what have we missed?? Please help
Nat
16 , cranks. but wont stay running.
i presume compression is well over 170PSI on all four. right? lots of motor work should end with compression test. in fact all motor work should start with that.
"we say to self. gee with this thing even pump air, yes or no?"
no, then back to drawing board. PUNT.
and you have the distributor timed at TDC , (spec is 5BTDC) on #1 cylinder and not #4 TDC.! not 180 deg out of time.
and the wires are layed down from #1 (not 4) CCW 1,3,4,2.
how old is gas.?
how long did it ever sit, with old gas in tank? 1 year?
is fuel pressure at spec.
-data-
92-95 FSM specifications on RAIL pressure.
1.6L KEYON-nostart ----35.6–42.7 psi Static test:
1.6L Keyoff , min. 28.4 psi for one minute. (leak down spec) , Residual pressure test.
1.6L KeyON-start --- 29.8–37.0 psi Running pressure. <<<< THIS IS THE CRUCIAL TEST.
if compression is good. and the dizzy timed right.
then you have bad injection for some reason.
impossible to see them, mostly.
have you swapped the injector from dead side to good side.?
to find TDC #1 with out , taking off cam covers. front or top VC.
put crank cog pulley mark to TDC #0 deg.
this will be 1 or 4 cylinder.
how to find out. which it is.
just remove #1 spark plug. and blow air with lips on fresh clean rubber hose
pressed agains #1 spark hole.
cant blow , bingo.
can blow , rotate crank 360 clock wise.
no you can blow.
or just put a compression guage on #1 and watch #1 hit top presssure and stop at 0deg.
Thanks for replying so quickly
ok rechecked the crank/cam timing in relation to dist timing and its spot on, changed fuel regulator, fuel pump tests ok, new plugs, checked all 4 and are sparking, motor turns but doesnt start, except the occasional 1 or 2 cylinder fire, when all plugs are again removed they are now drowned in fuel to the point of being able to light with a lighter......would this mean my injectors are fulty and we are getting to much fuel through?
Nat
after rebuild was compression tested for 170psi all 4?
this will tell us if cam was timed right and many other things.
lash, gaskets. etc.
first off, if confident timing is all correct and there is spark.
then press gas pedal to floor, and hold it there. called WOT.
this activates (TPS) the secret unflood mode. now crank.
all injections stop cold while cranking when you do that.
if that dont start it, then
plug back in the ECT sensor. (oops)
or
test it. ECT with ohm meter. tell me ohmic reading.
and your ambient temperature at that moment. approx.
2500 ohms at room temp.
also, when doing a Compression test, use WOT. wide open throttle.
or the readings are useless.
Well heres a turn up for the books
you know how we flooded the spark plugs, well we removed, dryed and cleaned plugs, spun the motor over to clean out access fuel, diconnected the injectors, replaced plugs, started the engine, it idled correctly on fuel left in manifold until fuel used. We will now be replacing all the injectors.
We WILL get this damn car to run right!!!!
Nat
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