first and formost
find out what end is doing it. Prop forward or rear prop shaft.
doing above will leak out lots of oil , (but may be ok short trip)
the prop yoke will have to be pulled and whole prop shaft dropped to the deck.
this yoke , forms 1/2 of the seal at rear of xfr case.
do drive in 4wd ( hubs locked + 4L/H) engaged , on any asphalt or concrete unless
it is covered with ice or snow of any kind.
it will wind up even on wet pavement.
there is a TSB telling how to unwind it ( some ppl do it so bad). Sad huh?
crawl under car and YANK the prop saft on the rear in all directions,
even take a 2x2 or 2x4" board 20" long under aND PRY IT HARD.
THEN OBSERVE THE RESULTS.
You can even remove the prop shaft and feel the Ujoints, they must not be loose as a goose. they must fill like bearing with thick grease in side. like stiff butter.
pry motor on mounts.
pry tranny on mounts. must be stiff and resistant to movement , like the rubber it is.
wiggle front wheels off ground , be brutal.
look for play.
examine the front wheel bearings like the 7.5-15k service points says to do !
check rotors for cracks. #1
check calipers for proken pins.
look for oil in rear brake shoes.
a full veh. inspection will find the problem.
driving and guessing will not likely play out.
but i hope it does.
windup results.
the seal that will leak is #44
as you can see , i believe in inspecting the car for its safety first.
look for damage
look for missing or loose bolts.
i just found one kick that had the front "A" arm bolt almost dropped out.
nut long gone.
imagine if that did fall out.
that yoke on front end of rear prop shaft fits on a spline and simply
falls out. once rear 4 bolts are pulled.
cheers.
PS: U-joints are easy to change if you have a vise .
PS2: i buy the forged u=joints with zerks. they cost a little more. but are worth every penny.