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Old 06-09-2009, 04:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Unhappy Vibration sometimes, comes and goes

I have a 1994 GEO Traker that is vibrating SOMETIMES when I am driving around 35 MPH. When I stop, it goes away, for awhile. Have changed front bearings and the right side half axle. According to my manuals, it is not the U Joints because it does this vibration in any gear. It blows my mind that it comes and goes and is inconsistant? When it does vibrate, it feels like the whole vehicle is going to fall apart BUT stopping and starting makes it OK for awhile??
Thank you in advance
Michael
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Old 06-09-2009, 06:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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when you say stopping and starting makes is ok do you mean turning the engine off and back on? if so it could be an engine problem such as an intermittent missfire. does the rig throw any codes?
also is vibrations worse/better when braking, do is it worse/better around corners etc, or is it the same all the time?
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Old 06-09-2009, 06:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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in 4wd or out.

can it be made to vibrate in neutral, (is this a 5sp?)
youe need to say what car you have, 2d, 4dr, 4wd, 5sp,4sp, 3sp.?
locking or auto lock hubs. for starters.


tricks, up hill vib.
down hill vib?
neutral on tranny, vib? , up or down hill
neutral on XFR case, up or down hill.?

and how much or little power on floating power. will cause or stop vib.?

will it do it with hubs locked.?
in inour out of 4wd or 4h ,or 4L?

eg, it does it, i 4L at 15mph.?


never ever , rule U joints, they telegraph noise like no business.
ive seen folks do that , 100 times and be wrong.
it can be bad spines on the tranny or axle.

or even a broken tranny mount. (misaligned.)

coasting down a long hell, down shift, can it be made to vib?

usually U-joints vib, when you float the power.
see, just enough power to maintain speed in any gear. bang vib CITY.

CHEERS.
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default in answer to yer questions

1st, I want to THANK YOU ALL VERY VERY much to your rapid responce!! OK, here goes, it does not seem to matter what gear I am in or if I am in turns or not. When I stop at lights and or stop signs the vibration will actually go away for awhile??? I have the USA model and it is 4WD. I think it is the older 4 cylinder engine, 1.6L? I know it takes the smaller dist. cap. I just drove it around the block and went above 45 MPH and it did not vibrate??? ahhhhh!! I is going crazy! OK, I am going to put it in 4WD high and drive it for a couple of miles and see what happens. I looked at the "half axle" on the left side, the one I didnt change and it looks old but does not "look" bad. And I also have to agree with the U joint thing. I know I have changed a few of them in the past on other vehicles. The thing that really gets me is when it is vibrating speeding up or down, pushing the clutch in does not matter?? But when I come to a complete stop and start driving again it will eventually start vibrating again and I mean like it is getting ready to blow up or fall apart. I did try speeding up this morning, it just got worse..
Again, thank you all very much!!!
Michael (out for another test drive in 4WD)
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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be careful in 4wd, you need slippery ground, dirt ,gravel , grass.
or it will wind up. bad.

sure sounds like a Ujoint,
they (ujoints) start out with a floated throttle and they vibrate. either side of float can cause vibs (noise to happen)
floated is when there is little if no enery gong from motor to wheels or vice versa. so load effects noice , when a little bad.
but as the get more warn, they will just go crazy. loose as goose.
they can chatter too , it starts up like a Violin sting , hits a perfect speed and it resonates. Plungggggggggg
once they chatter, the destruction expands fast and quick. (what ever it is)

id have the two ends in my hand and try to rotate coupling against prop shaft.
back and forth , ccw and cw.

feel it.
Quote:
only stopping stops the vib.
wow. once it sets in.
vibrates down to 1mph.? hummmmm

it must be very bad. if it sounds 5 times faster then wheel spin then its prop shaft.

check spines on prop shaft both ends for looseness.

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Old 06-09-2009, 07:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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sorry its my solo barics
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Old 06-09-2009, 08:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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his Audio amplifier is stuck on warp 9.
pity the neighbors. hahahahah
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Old 06-21-2009, 11:52 AM   #8 (permalink)
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[quote=mountainman;172483]1st, I want to THANK YOU ALL VERY VERY much to your rapid responce!! OK, here goes, it does not seem to matter what gear I am in or if I am in turns or not. When I stop at lights and or stop signs the vibration will actually go away for awhile??? I have the USA model and it is 4WD. I think it is the older 4 cylinder engine, 1.6L? I know it takes the smaller dist. cap. I just drove it around the block and went above 45 MPH and it did not vibrate??? ahhhhh!! I is going crazy! OK, I am going to put it in 4WD high and drive it for a couple of miles and see what happens. I looked at the "half axle" on the left side, the one I didnt change and it looks old but does not "look" bad. And I also have to agree with the U joint thing. I know I have changed a few of them in the past on other vehicles. The thing that really gets me is when it is vibrating speeding up or down, pushing the clutch in does not matter?? But when I come to a complete stop and start driving again it will eventually start vibrating again and I mean like it is getting ready to blow up or fall apart. I did try speeding up this morning, it just got worse..
Again, thank you all very much!!!
Michael (out for another test drive in 4WD)

The answer is definitely you rear propshaft universal joints. Here in the UK we have particularly bad weather so we don't get or find the 4 wheel drive problems until it gets dry which is not that often but always too late! Anyway, I've had exactly the same problem, took the prop off, drove it in 4 wheel drive, (effectively front wheel drive) quite safely to get the new UJ's and now works a treat. DO NOT DRIVE IN 4 WHEEL DRIVE ON THE ROAD IN DRY WEATHER!!! The gearing isn't set up for it and the front axle will fight the back and anything in between will suffer! There are two types, 24mm and 25mm bearing shells, my UK Vitara is 24mm but US sizes may differ.

Best of luck!
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Old 06-21-2009, 12:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Default drive line noise. best is to assume brakes are bad and then proceed.

first and formost

find out what end is doing it. Prop forward or rear prop shaft.
doing above will leak out lots of oil , (but may be ok short trip)
the prop yoke will have to be pulled and whole prop shaft dropped to the deck.
this yoke , forms 1/2 of the seal at rear of xfr case.

do drive in 4wd ( hubs locked + 4L/H) engaged , on any asphalt or concrete unless
it is covered with ice or snow of any kind.
it will wind up even on wet pavement.

there is a TSB telling how to unwind it ( some ppl do it so bad). Sad huh?


crawl under car and YANK the prop saft on the rear in all directions,
even take a 2x2 or 2x4" board 20" long under aND PRY IT HARD.
THEN OBSERVE THE RESULTS.

You can even remove the prop shaft and feel the Ujoints, they must not be loose as a goose. they must fill like bearing with thick grease in side. like stiff butter.

pry motor on mounts.
pry tranny on mounts. must be stiff and resistant to movement , like the rubber it is.

wiggle front wheels off ground , be brutal.
look for play.

examine the front wheel bearings like the 7.5-15k service points says to do !

check rotors for cracks. #1
check calipers for proken pins.
look for oil in rear brake shoes.


a full veh. inspection will find the problem.

driving and guessing will not likely play out.

but i hope it does.


windup results.



the seal that will leak is #44





as you can see , i believe in inspecting the car for its safety first.
look for damage
look for missing or loose bolts.

i just found one kick that had the front "A" arm bolt almost dropped out.
nut long gone.

imagine if that did fall out.

that yoke on front end of rear prop shaft fits on a spline and simply
falls out. once rear 4 bolts are pulled.

cheers.

PS: U-joints are easy to change if you have a vise .

PS2: i buy the forged u=joints with zerks. they cost a little more. but are worth every penny.

Last edited by jtgh : 06-21-2009 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 06-21-2009, 12:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
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the shafts.

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