Electric Fan

[Beach Toy]

1995 Tracker, 16V, Federal, Auto, w/AC As I am working on many items on my new to me Tracker, (the MONEY PIT, as the wife calls it) the one thing I can't quite figure out is the odd operation of the electric fan. The AC is not on, but every now and then the electric fan kicks on, then kicks off, maybe five seconds total of run time. The engine is not hot, as indicated on the gauge, but still the fan kicks on-off. It seems to have a mind of its own. With AC on, the fan runs continuously, as I believe it is supposed to. What gives? Is there some sensor that overrides to operate fan when the engine is too hot? If so, where is it, because I'll bet that sensor is bad. Why else is there this goofy fan operation?

[jtgh]

no book shows all the rules for that fan. (other than be on with A/C ON)

BUT i can show you to how to find out what object is causing it.
wires.
relay
ac amp.

its easy.
see schematic here. 2nd to last is 95

see the relay. for fan.
now see a/c amp blue red wire.

if you pull the ac amp connector the fan can never run.
if it does the fan relay is bad.
or
the blue/red wire is grounded out to body.

the fsm tells all things that can stop AC and fan but no words about what can make it run , just A/C on , fan can or will run. sadly.

all the brains are in the ac amp and ecu.
i think the ecu cuts AC only when ECU thinks you are overloading motor or driving wide open throttle . (max power (load) or max Throttle)


my guess (?) is chafing wire blue/red
bad relay? (can it be swapped? with AC clutch , look at pn. on relays if same ,yes.)
bad A/C amp.

hope these ideas help you.\
cheers.

[Beach Toy]

GREAT! Now I know where to look, i.e. what components, etc... But, I don't see the schematic, usually you have the little thumnail in the middle of the post to click on, did I miss something?

[jtgh]

no i messed up.

air-conditioner-repair

here it is , not much , electrical centric.

[dbacon]

What else will you be working on? I have fixed many things on my '95 Sidekick, and maybe something I have found can save you time.
Here is what I have done:
-Fixed bad contact in turn signal switch
-Fixed bad connections in auto trans selector switch ("PN switch")
-Changed kM to MPH with new speedo head
-Fixed AC with new condenser
-Fixed 4 spd auto trans jumping in and out of "OD" (4th gear)
-Lubed up really slow electric windows, and changed them to operate without ignition.
-(partially) sealed leak in air intake plenup that filled pass side with water
-Working on cruise control, still not successful, but low priority
-Fixed inop brake lights (all out, and it wasn't the switch)
-Fixed inop backup lights (It was the switch - on the trans)
-Replaced cracked and tarnished headlights
-Fixed inop dome light, every switch was bad - 5 of 'em
-Fixed inop illum on the HVAC panel
-Figured out why mine starts in gear, but left it that way for reliability
-Figured out how to make a trans VSS (Cause I stupidly ruined mine)
-Repaired a bad TCM with new capacitors
-Installed a 400W inverter in place of the ash tray
-Made the rear squirter spray better
-Fixed the inop mirror controls, it was the switch
-Made a new glovebox latch as it was missing (???)
-Legally imported it from Canada, now it is a USA car
-Tinted the windows (some people don't know how...)
-Found the jack (Under the pass seat)
-Found the hood latch (in the glovebox) This was the first thing
-Figured out how to turn off DRL (one click up on the hand brake)

If my experience will help you, just say so

[jtgh]

ahhh, i like that ash tray upgrade, very handy. !!!! 120vac, 60hz power jack. nice.

put micro toggle next to hand brake to mimmic closer and DRL kill lable. hahahahah

also, I think one can put same toggle inseries with DRL resistor module and get same effect. i think this is popular. some ppl hat it. no sure why but they sure do.



when you imported it to usa, was is a e28 canada model or e03/E33 usafed or calif. model already? just curious.

sorry about your cruise. try getting used cheap module see if it acts better.
i remember you changed out the old caps in it too.

cheers.

PS: thanks for sharing !!!

[Beach Toy]

jtgh, thanks for the link that had the AC info. I'll be hunting this problem down this weekend as it is driving me nuts, because I know it's NOT supposed to do this intermittent fan thing.
dbacon, tell me about the dome light switches, my driver's side is a dud, and the passenger's side works very dimly. I take it that the switches have issues, I haven't looked under the rubber pieces yet, how do the switches come out, and is replacement switch(s) required? You lucky dog! You have 4spd auto. I have the wonderful 3spd, I thought lockup on TC didn't work till I found out I had to be above 47 MPH to get it to lockup! These are interesting vehicles to work on, that's for sure!

[dbacon]

Beach Toy,

The dome light switches don't have to be removed, you can grab the button with the rubber cover still on and twist them back and forth a little to "scrub" them clean. The dim one is a perfect example of how the contacts oxidize. Few designers understand that copper oxidizes, and I can't imagine why...

jtgh,

I don't like DRL because when I am tailgating someone it seems like they might think I am rudely demanding they get out of the way. I tailgate because I hate slamming on the brakes for the guys who dive in front of you.

I don't know the answer to your question, I read about "market code", in your recent post on it, forgot where. All (I think) I know is that it is for non VIN numbered cars.

Here are my ID plates, can you tell me?
Also why put "nnnn" over serial no? If car is legal, who cares? Thanks
By the way 400 W invertor was Murray's Auto Parts $30 (!!!) I didn't need ashtray, my polite wife brings her own portable ash tray, and yes Beach Toy, I am lucky in many ways, and I appreciate it!

[lnbman]

db you have same vehicle as me (less power windows and cruise) an 03 in
your vin is a usa market code, as pointed out by JTGH when I had egr issues.
I'm in canada, I can only imagine wherever market targeted needed more
vehicles they were tooled (DRL etc.) in USA and shipped up here. The DRL
was legislated law for the 1990 models in Canada and I know is the curse of
our neighbors to the south! but living in a winter country and (northern states) where it is darker 6-7 months of the year the DRL has proven to help.
When we go to Seattle in the winter (same climate as Vancouver) almost
everyone on the freeways has their headlights on! In fact some have almost
always commented when we are pulling in some where our headlights look
sick (dim). I guess after almost 20 yrs. we are used to it. $125 fine if module
not working!
Changing blower motor this weekend (dead spot) have to hit to get going
and not putting out enough for A/C, wrong one? will find out

Also found Permatex-rear defogger tab adhesive for my rear door window,
to install metal tab and plug defogger back in ( fifty hits from dog's tail)
it conducts electrically. $16 CAN. ouch but should do the trick.

Sorry to get off topic but I have found twice in other vehicles the fan
relay is the culprit if it runs all the time or most of the time when not
needed, I would go to that first and foremost.














c

[dbacon]

Inbman,

Thanks for decoding the market code, good luck with the fan, I hope you can just clean up the commutator. Next time I have tp replace a fan I will consider the RC hobby brushless motors and speed controllers. Way better all the way around, but could have a few mechanical challenges... You can see them at Hobby City:
Hobbycity Online R/C Hobby Store : Towerpro Combos

They are usually used with an RC receiver, but you can use a "servo tester" to control them instead.
Hobbycity Online R/C Hobby Store : HXT Servo Tester $5.74

Thanks for the heads-up on the DRL laws, now I am convinced I will leave it unmolested.