JLX 94 electrical problem

[JLX 1993]

Hi all... I have a problem starting my sidekick. Thinking its starter or something electrical. (new battery charged) How can I test/diagnose? When I crank it, the rpm goes right up to 1500+, and dash light not working now. It sounds likes battery dead. Thanks again

[TheZuke!]

I'm a bit confused by your post...

The Tachometer shows 1500+ and the engine isn't even cranking?

You write "new battery charged", but then you write
"sounds like battery dead".

"Dash light not working now"
The CEL (Check Engine Light) or all of the dash lights?

Please give additional info...
Have you just aquired the vehicle?
Miles/Kilos on the odometer...
Number of Doors
Automatic or Manual transmission,
8 or 16 valve engine
Carburated or EFI (TBI? MFI?)

[JLX 1993]

It cranks for like a second... tach goes way up instantly. Put in a new battery, charged too... will test battery. Dash board light not working. ITs a 16 valve 4 door manual EFI. I printed out Jtghs CEL testing method with paper clip, will try that too. Also forgot to add that there seems to be a negative cable loose around the starter... maybe that's the problem? Thanks for the reply

Originally Posted by TheZuke!

I'm a bit confused by your post...

The Tachometer shows 1500+ and the engine isn't even cranking?

You write "new battery charged", but then you write
"sounds like battery dead".

"Dash light not working now"
The CEL (Check Engine Light) or all of the dash lights?

Please give additional info...
Have you just aquired the vehicle?
Miles/Kilos on the odometer...
Number of Doors
Automatic or Manual transmission,
8 or 16 valve engine
Carburated or EFI (TBI? MFI?)

[jtgh]

that is it, that cable runs the whole car , starter ,

it must never be loose.

as you crank, the power to the ECU and tach , are a burst of noise.

like swiming in a hurricane.

sounds like battery cables need maintenance. (both ends are just as important)

last guy who messed with starter, messed wiring. for sure.

[jtgh]

http://carfix.stufftoread.com/nostar...tarting-1w.jpg

your missing G105
so all current has to try to go thru G115 a tiny wire that can not stand starting current.
the risk is blowing the ECU to kingdome come.

this happens cuz current travels thru the least path of resistance.
if the ecu be comes that path , kiss it off.

[JLX 1993]

I'll test everything this evening, battery, and try to connect the loose cable... if that doesn't help, will post again, thanks.

Originally Posted by jtgh

http://carfix.stufftoread.com/nostar...tarting-1w.jpg

your missing G105
so all current has to try to go thru G115 a tiny wire that can not stand starting current.
the risk is blowing the ECU to kingdome come.

this happens cuz current travels thru the least path of resistance.
if the ecu be comes that path , kiss it off.

[JLX 1993]

Took apart the starter, cleaned inside/out, cleaned contacts. How can I 'bench' test, if connecting directly to battery, can I burn it, if I connect +/- wrong? Also the loose cable goes from the battery, maybe the - terminal? Thanks again

[jtgh]

you pulled starter before fixing the main power feed? whY.?
if you must,
no long sleeves.. hahahah

battery and cables of same gage as OEM, from battery plus , to big outside terminal
of the starter solenoid.
then battery minus to top bolt hole of starter mount, all nice and tight.
200 amps flow here. (mucho)

no see that little tiny spade lug on the solenoid, short that to the big red lug.



hear solenoid pull in clack, gear jump out , motor spin real fast.

on 2 seconds, as the motor can overspeed , with no load.

this is a series wound motor, google that,
"more load, more power is produced."


Engine-will-not-crank-over

here it is again, no crank. page. see end photo.
shows the actual circuit, even the inside of stater is shown ! nice huh.

fix that neg. battery cable and car will start.
you said it was loose.

cheers

[bodykits]

Check the starter line... but have an open line..

[jtgh]

hot wire the starter. if THAT works the cab wiring (and tranny/clutch switch , or ign, switch is bad)
gee, i supplied a schematic , and an example of a live test.!


if the hot wire test fails?
then the problem is:
starter or charge system. ( it must hot wire and crank briskly )

but how do you tell which.? is bad , charge or starter.
well , that is easy.

1: fresh battery installed, full charged out of other good car.
2: place a volt meter as my drawing shows.
3: crank , hear funny sounds now? from starter , good,, and read meter.
4: need 10v or more,. if 12v and not making a sound starter is bad (or solenoid)
just 5 steps,

move the red meter lead to big red lug, next. (meter ground is attached to engine block ground)
crank motor again. it must be 10v or more. (while solenoid is fully energized , hear it?)
or you have bad battery cables, or motor (starter motor) is shorted. (or hydralocked motor)




if you suspect bad battery cables then just place the VM across each and crank
the is called the cable voltage drop test.
if over 1/2 volt , expect to need new cables. (max drop 0.50 volts.)

meter placed at extreme ends of cables.


only rarely is the motor shorted. (but happened 1 time here , this forum)
this caused the solenoid to bounce back,