New Ecu and....... still broken

[Lukz]

So after i installed my new ecu i have the same problems as the last one.It ran for a short period of time 30 mins before i parked it. went out to start again a few hours later and nothing.
i try to start the kick and all i get is a click in the FP relay.
any thoughts? its a 1993 4dr 16v 4wd at kick

ecu throws code 12

[jtgh]

ahh, yes, the case of the missing ECU .
so what PN you get? 58B40?

what does it do?
and not do?
won't start?
wont crank?

what?


i will guess and you do not even get a CRANK,
car wont crank , right? (( expanding on "All I GET")

the starter and the ECU / EFI are separate.

car will in fact crank all day long ( with battery charges) with no ECU.


so click my no crank page.

Engine-will-not-crank-over


can be anything in the starter and charging system.
or
bad PRNDL switch in tranny.
bad alarm .
bad remote start.


the first trick on all slush pump cars is to wiggle the gear shifter while turning the key to start.
bingo , it starts. (or cranks) starting takes lots of other magic.

that should get you , on the correct path.

cheers.

[Lukz]

no crank doesnt turn over.. nadda, just fp relay click once

[Lukz]

so i pulled the old ecu and the new ecu and looked at the caps and nothing that i can see some brown discoloration on both not sure if that affects them in any way but ive attached pics

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[Lukz]

upon closer analysis i found this, could this be the cause of my problems?

[jtgh]

that blemish is ,
1: JUST THE CONFORMAL (WATER PROOFING) drip
2: or is a blow out. killing ECU.

the ecu can not prevent cranking, how many times must is say that.
unless it blows the main fuses above your knee. there are 2 fuses. and it must blow the 40amp too , not very likely.

here is your start path and it has nothing at all to do with ECU.
see , your started via that 40 amp fuse on R/F fender


there comes a time , a time when you must make a decision.
(many problems, maybe?)

to fix first order problems , first.

if the car will not crank ,
the motor is useless as is the whole EFI system.

do you want to fix your dead starter.?

you dont need an ecu to do that.

see ?
see attached document.

do you have a voltmeter.?
i can step you thru some simple tests.

cheers.

[Lukz]

no voltmeter, had problems with factory alarm susessuly disabled, no remote start, tried wiggling the gear selector but nothing, going to crawl under tomorrow and take a look at the starter, not sure what im looking for though

[jtgh]

ok ,
there is 3 ways to diagnose no cranks.
at least
throw parts and go broke
or take readings, analyse results.
or
hot wire it.

with no meter , or even one of the funny cheap LED sticks that say
"charge and start diagnostics" this leaves us with just one.

my no crank page shows this.

i will detail the steps. (no crank and not even a wimper out of starter solenoid)
1: on the starter is a starter solenoid, my page has a photo of it , see it. see link below.
2: first deside if you want to use a remote starter button for safer and more confortable hot wiring.
3: if not , then see send photo that is the solenoid on the side of the starter.
there are 1 or 2 huge lugs, and one dingly spade faston lug.

that dinky lug is the starter KEYON start line , called ST by suzuki.
next see the outboard big lug , that is the battery cable lug.;

do not ever ground this lug or battery might explode. ok ?

4: put keys in pocket
5: put chocks on wheels rear front edge.
6: car in neutral or park as the case may apply. Xfr case in neutral too. just for safety
7: go down and under to the starter and using a screwdrive (old) jumper the big lug
to the tiny lug. for 1 second.
the starter will spin like mad, very loud and the crank pulley on the front of the motor will spinn about 300 rpm or so.
if this test passes, the stater is good. and the cab wiring is bad.
if it does nothing , then we have a bad starter or a dead battery or very possibly bad battery cables . ( if the charging system is bad the battery will be dead (not bad)
so now is a good time to try a spare or barrowed battery or just jump start the car.)

a voltmeter finds all these things is a couple of minutes.
all this is on my no crank page.

see chapter 2 , no tools section.




Engine-will-not-crank-over

[jtgh]

that remote jumper switch shown (1st photo) makes doing this real easy .
stand there , left or right side , never front of vehicle and press the button.
in park or neutral.

connect the test button to the solenoid tiny term. and the other lead to the battery big red plus cable terminal.
press the button.

if car cranks (it wont start like on tv)
but will crank.
this means the wire that runs from the Key switch to tranny and then to the solenoid is broken.
when i say broken that means the path of current from the switch to the solenoid is interrupted when starting.
if you have a clutch that becomes the normal interrupter of starting.
the AT tranny interrupts stating when in gear.


see, just that 1 test, cuts the whole problem in 1/2 , this is the military technique.
aka , binary search. technique. Divide and Conquer