it's not restrictive unless you are driving WOT 24/7, see?
you running flat out.?
COLD AIR is denser and is HARDER to induct. (you need pressurized air for it to work, think it thru, kill the TV)
the IAT trick is a lie.
but depends on what you want.
if you purposely , put a variable resistor in series with the IAT this is what happens.
imagine the POT is on your dash ! see? you wired it in.
imagine you took my iat tables and marked the dash.
-40 to 250 F. see?
your now driving , at 60mph (whatever) and OBD2 shows you are in closed loop. (you are and happens fast with heated O2 !)
so we have the knob set to the 120F, just so happens the air in your induction is 120f
by accident or you are real smart...heheheh
ok now we begin to play.
rotate the knob to 100f (colder air reading, and a lie)
you grin and think gee i really fooled that ECU, didnt I?.
NO.
the ecu does see the lie and in .5 seconds, corrected your lie. (dang)
how?
well you are in closed loop and the O2 , corrects that lie , instantly. ( this is called a Close Loop Servo function)
but.....
so unplug the o2, opps now you are out of closed loop and the ecu throws CEL codes
and sure the IAT works and the lie works but now the ECU goes to LIMPHOME.
each car ,each year LIMPHOME are diff.
the results will vary by , accuracy of all the other sensors.
that is what happens.
so yes, if ,if ,if you go to open loop, (CEL set) and you play with all sensors , you
can change the AFR.
you can Youtube this and they do in fact do this.
and you can make more power,if and only IF the ECU stays out of LIMPHOME.
Limphome sets retarded timing and rpm on most engines. and defeats the gains
from going a tad rich. (open loop.)
YMMV.
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How can i get more power
Linear Mode
