Hello guys , I'am New to this site but I have been on here regulary reading helpfull things anyway anyone know what could be rong with my tracker?....
It runs fine sometimes then when i run it and it heating`s up it drops in rpm some time b4 it heating`s i changed the plugs the wires and alternator and the computer and throttle pos sensor and took it out a hour ago ran fine then it started droping rpm on the random anyone know why? and is there a OBDII reader on it its a 1995
Need more info: engine size, 16 or 8 valve, country of origin, etc? Your car is OBD1, you extract codes by connecting pins on the Data Link Connector (DLC) (under the hood, adjacent to battery) and reading the flashing CEL. Sorry, I am unable to link you to Jerry's website (503 service unavailable)for your reference.
The tune up includes a Cap and rotor, and wires.
not less, and a Fuel filter.
ok idle drop. (in order of less hard to fix)
1: ISC sticky
2: TPS not calibrated correctly with feeler guages.
3: ECU in Limphome (ECU is ok, but it hates something....?)
ECU can drop to limphome for many reasons. and drops idle with it.
4: motor is physically sick, vacuum bad, compression,
4A; bad injector, leaks or is clogged.
Under some situations the eCU , will abandon the Idle control software
if it can not do its prime directives.
1: keep spark perfect
2: keep injectors firing
3: keep AFR in control.
long huge list and
IDLE control is last item on the list.
95 canada 8v sun runner. there read all the posts.
8v: can you better tell how it idles COLD and HOT? (AND HOT RESTARTS)
IF THE IDLE messes up it is hard to diagnose.
if
1: isc is clean and working. (not sticky inside and operates perfectly with applied 12vdc as test. and you made sure it is closed and blocks air , resting.
12vcd opens the valve. and you made sure it does open.
see,
because you need to see if the ECU is even trying to control it.
also the ISC is working perfect and the ecu is working perfect but the
silly engine is running lean (bad MAF, is one fail)
and the ISC starts hunting.
the ISC can be watched with a scope .
but most folks dont have that, so we must result to trying less accurate ways to test things.
i WILL ASSUME (gosh help me) that it messes up hot and even hot restarts.
cold is a whole diff matter, and you didnt explain the full cycle.
cold start> cold running, cold to warm up, hot, and hot restarts.
is the engine reaching 180F hot coolant, #1` top issue !!!!!!
Here are some things:
your 8v has a dash pot ,
1: does dash pot fully retract after starting cold and after max 30 seconds.
2: Dashpot is now retracted does engine race at 2000 rpm and more.
3: now at the point while warming up does it slowly drop from 2000 to 800
rpm , after reaching full temperature of 180deg. F .
4 can you restart and get 800.
if RPM drops below 800 , that is wrong. and i need to know when this happens.
I need to know if feathering the gas pedal can cure this drop.
i need to know if the car blows black smoke out the tail pipe when car is hot and if it drops idle at the same time.
i want to know , if the spark plugs look perfect , never black or wet.
once we know these things.
try:
pinching top hose (hot) the ISC top air hose.
this must drop idle below 800 or you have a massive air leak.
there thats your first test.
i have 20 or so tests that can pin point this problem.
as the fsm says, idle is the last thing to set, as all other things effect idle.
tis true.
SORRY this should be first post , sorry !
i looked at yours and it looks just like our 8v sidekicks.
with EGR.
so make sure MAIN EGR valve is clean as a whistle if it leaks
it will kill idle.
it must be removed and cleaned.
is car stock, and no missing OEM driveline parts.
EGR, Cat converter in place.
etc.'
no MOD's.
what car , ( we are close on that)
does it get fully hot.
at want modes does the failure occur,
the EGR can be eliminated from the mix by the following.
1; clean it.
2: make sure air can not be blown thru the main valve section.
3: make sure the valve is not cracked anywhere. look, inside and out.
4: move the valve back , fingers or vacuum pump.
5: does it move from min to max and not sick. when released.
once you are sure it is not leaking ANYWHERE. and to the outside air.
and the gasket is good and not missing and not cracked.
put it back and pinch the vac tube to it.
now it cant leak any more. (if it was)
now see if car still drops idle.?
if it does ,its NOT the EGR.
un pinch egr vac hose. ( i just pull hose at egr main, and put in a screw to plug vac, line.)
they sell vac hose pinchers or you can use tiny vise grips or the like.
that knocks , EGR off the list of idle destroyers.
now make sure the Dashpot works
1: key off,
2: dash pot is pushing throttle open, see it.?
3: start engine, note, DP is still holding open throttle. 2000 rpm typical
4: 3-30seconds later the ECU activates the VSV and the DP retracts.
5: now rpm may be 1000 to 1500 but not any where as high as before.
6: the bottom IAC thermal valve controls idle now until coolant reaches 145F and now
only the IAC electric (ISC ) controls idle.
see the progression here.
this process allows you to see where it messes up.
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Dropping in rpm changed alot of parts come read
Linear Mode
