if its violent , that is electrical , usually.
especially under load (hill)
it could be on the HV side or LV side of ignition.
HV = high voltage
LV = low voltage
HV is tops for failure,
its called a full tune up , cap , rotor wires and plugs.
its called out in the 30k/60k column in the maintenance schedule too.
if it feels like its cutting out , violent, it is tune up time
if it gets worse under load, then it is.
I have the same problem - but I have the slow version - as though I'm pressing to accelerate then easing off, repeatedly, and same as 'neval8ina308' it seems to do it more if I really push it, or it's up hill.
<< who are these mutants with whiter teeth? lol scarry.
always post with car spec and country, or answers will be mostly wrong.
In general:
bogging is a lack of power, car starts, runs , idles, races ok.
races ,as in RACING engine ,parked in drive way.
but as soon as you put a more substantial load on the engine, it bogs.
so you down shift and it just takes a little longer to bog.
Typically:
this is fuel starvation. (can be lots of things, bad fuel pump or better low fuel pressure
and or clogged fuel filter and bad MAF (? 16v here) Filter is tune up item too.
huge list, but no car spec, no more guessing.
if it bucks, it's usually spark. (violent) and is almost always from the lack of doing a tune up.
if its a pre 96 USA car, there is no MISFIRE, DTC error codes. (just seat of pants)
better vitara, is to start your own post so you can get accurate data.
best of all is fill out your profile.
no, i dont need your name or street address or phone number
i need the full car spec, and geographical location/.
eg:
Vitrara, EU west or France,etc,
1.6L EFI, 16v, 4speed AT, 4wd , 4doors
( we get posts from tiny pacific islands and even New Zealand !, all over , really)
welcome to the forum.
tell more, get more.
if its violent , that is electrical , usually.
especially under load (hill)
it could be on the HV side or LV side of ignition.
HV = high voltage
LV = low voltage
HV is tops for failure,
its called a full tune up , cap , rotor wires and plugs.
its called out in the 30k/60k column in the maintenance schedule too.
if it feels like its cutting out , violent, it is tune up time
if it gets worse under load, then it is.
IIRC, plugs are 30k and wires/cap/rotor are 60k .
fuel loss is usually a slow bog.
not violant.
hope that helps you.
thanks for the reply jtgh,
i guess i should of mentioned i have the 8v carby engine. i ordered plugs, dizzy cap and rotor today. hopefully that fixes it.
gravity , vacuum , venturi
they are a tricky lot, but can be fully seen and examined for flaws.
if it bogs,
carbi
1: clogged jets
2: power valve function(dont diff ways diff, carbs) bad
3: low float level (lots of ways)
4: clogged fuel filter , sometimes on one car and one in carb.
can be a flat spot ( really just tiny bog)
or the whole deal.
but a tune up is way cheaper than any carb rebuild , .
but it might not be car
slipped timing belt on cam.?
gravity , vacuum , venturi
they are a tricky lot, but can be fully seen and examined for flaws.
if it bogs,
carbi
1: clogged jets
2: power valve function(dont diff ways diff, carbs) bad
3: low float level (lots of ways)
4: clogged fuel filter , sometimes on one car and one in carb.
can be a flat spot ( really just tiny bog)
or the whole deal.
but a tune up is way cheaper than any carb rebuild , .
but it might not be car
slipped timing belt on cam.?
cheer.s
I replaced cap rotor and leads, but it still does the jerking thing. only on hills though. I will have a look at the carby next i think.
Its quite violent like the spark is not there - i definiately wouldnt call it a flat spot, but it only seems to happen on hills and more likely if im gettign low on fuel (less than 1/4 tank) points to fuel. How do i change the carby fuel filter and adjust the float level?
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