Still cannot find problem?

[Dirtybeerguy]

This vehicle has really got me?? I just cannot for the life of me figure out its power-loss? I have changed plugs,wires, fuel filter, Catalytic convertor, air filter, egr valve, PCV, thermostat, etc!! It runs outstanding cold, it idles correctly, TPS is good, No vaccum leaks. Again, it runs GREAT " COLD"!! After the temp guage gets to normal position( Almost in the middle of C and H), if I hit a hill -- the vehicle will not keep its power even in 3rd gear ( BOGS DOWN)!! Even on flat ground, you can feel that power Bog if you go to Full Pedal, but you can keep your speed ( NO BIggie), but those hills kill it. I should remind you guys this thing is a 91 Suzuki Sidekick 8V. What is your guys thoughts on possibly the ignition coil? Nah--runs good cold? I dont know Im LOST!! I do know , whatever the problem is---I get terrible gas mileage.
I need to let you guys know this also, the code throwed was a MAP Sensor, but Im waiting to find someone who has one of these things( SAME VEHICLE) and switch that sensor out for TEST purposes b4 spending $200 for a new one. I just do not think that is the problem. In fact nobody has a wrecked one of these babies lying around -do they? I would be interested in some parts. My local salvage yards have none.

[shackwrrr]

sounds like it needs more fuel. Have you tested the fuel pressure? IS it TBI or mpi. If its tbi check the spray pattern of the injector is it a nice cone or does it drip and dribble?

[CodyJ]

Get the timing set properly... I spent not much money except on tune-up on mine and still had similiar problems. I removed O2 and drove around the block, still problems after warm. Its the timing; It is simple but awfully missed most of the time. It can be done quickly with a timing light. Should be awfully close to 8btdc. I also would check not only with a light but the cam and crank area timing to make sure its proper too. Try this as other methods have failed! It is not the map sensor (why? because it does not make much a difference with it disconnected like ur taking about) Please do this procedure before sending it to the junkyard.

[jtgh]

power loss only hot.
should not be fuel pressure. ( full power good cold uses the most fuel per sec, going up hill)

Congrats ! (sorry)
you have the 1st bad MAP ever posted here. never seen a DTC map bad ever.
The ecu monitors the map and the TPS and RPM and VSS
the map is load.
the ecu models a virtual load with TPS/RPM and VSS.
the virtual load is crude but if the MAP grossly differs to the virtual load then
you get the DTC code for bad map.

so , you have a bad map
or
air leak.
bad tps
bad cmp
bad vss
if the MAP is the only code ,then it must be the map.

a noisy TPS wiper might cause this too. (monitor the voltage out tsp key ON, and make sure it is linear and tracks rotation of the throttle. (volt meter ? have it?)
it must never spike to 5v or to 0v, if it is linear in 5 tries, its ok.

hot only sounds is goofy.
but not really as the cold start relies on TPS for starting.
Map becomes predominant after going hot and off throttle.
Cold start and running cold , there is no closed loop .
after warm up , O2 and MAP are predominant.

MAP hose leaks, map filter in line clogged.
map nipple on TB clogged.
test for 19 inches of vacuum at the map nipple !!!!!!! idling (t fitting time)_

Originally Posted by Dirtybeerguy

This vehicle has really got me?? I just cannot for the life of me figure out its power-loss? I have changed plugs,wires, fuel filter, Catalytic convertor, air filter, egr valve, PCV, thermostat, etc!! It runs outstanding cold, it idles correctly, TPS is good, No vaccum leaks. Again, it runs GREAT " COLD"!! After the temp guage gets to normal position( Almost in the middle of C and H), if I hit a hill -- the vehicle will not keep its power even in 3rd gear ( BOGS DOWN)!! Even on flat ground, you can feel that power Bog if you go to Full Pedal, but you can keep your speed ( NO BIggie), but those hills kill it. I should remind you guys this thing is a 91 Suzuki Sidekick 8V. What is your guys thoughts on possibly the ignition coil? Nah--runs good cold? I dont know Im LOST!! I do know , whatever the problem is---I get terrible gas mileage.

I need to let you guys know this also, the code throwed was a MAP Sensor, but Im waiting to find someone who has one of these things( SAME VEHICLE) and switch that sensor out for TEST purposes b4 spending $200 for a new one. I just do not think that is the problem. In fact nobody has a wrecked one of these babies lying around -do they? I would be interested in some parts. My local salvage yards have none.

[turbozuk]

Check that engine coolant temp sensor is working.. possible reading @ -30 cold. That will give a very rich mixture causing to run good when cold and like crap when warm. You should be able to jump terminals to trick it into thinking it's hot

[jtgh]

a 200 ohms resistor is best
just buy a $3 DVM at harbor freight and read the resistance hot.
on the eCt ,
a 1 min test and the answer.

180f = 200 ohms (about) HOT ! but first is it getting hot, < always 1st all EFI
if it reads 2000 ohms bingo < example.

here is my table
temp-sensors
many data points .

[jtgh]

a short, i tried that, to get my Megasqirt to do alarms on dead sensors.
i had to find the trip point for short. sure enough, out comes DTC code 15 . repeatable .
but the ECU will vomit on that because that sets the DTc FOR shortreD ECT.
THIS FORCES LIMP HOME.
RICH AND RETARDED will be the result.

try a 3 cent resistor. (IN RANGE )

[jtgh]

there are 3 states
open
shorted
and in range.

first to cause ecu to go to limphome.
id avoid that.

[jtgh]

find a new MAP off an old wrecked car.
most are good.

DTC bad map is real.
unless , you pulled it with key on.
no way spend $200 .
aske for one here.

[dbacon]

I just did a search for "suzuki sidekick map" on ebay found two for $40