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Old 04-03-2009, 03:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default What should I do????

Ok so my 95 kicker has a blown head gasket. After thinking I’ve deiced to get a new one rather than fix this one. It has a few other problems besides the blow head gasket.

So my question is there any years of the trackick that is better than others?


Should I go with Auto Or man trans.

How do you tell if it’s the 4 speed auto or the 3 speed.

Any help would be great I’m getting the new one in like 2 weeks . So what do All of you think

also what do you think about getting a grand vit and lifting it????
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Old 04-03-2009, 09:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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5 speed would be the best, It gets better fuel mileage and takes off better. If you go with a auto then go with the 4.
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Old 04-03-2009, 10:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Why would you say the 4 over the 3
I know the 3 speed has the4.62 gear ratio. I have a set of 5.12 i could put in it. Is the 3 not as strong.
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Old 04-04-2009, 12:55 AM   #4 (permalink)
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i bet that 95 is nice, in SacraTomatoe.
no rust. great gas mileage. nice offroad.

get a 96. at least you can scan it with it messes up.

TELL page.
13 ways , at least.
Slush pump diagnosis

ideas:?
5sp, why slip ? Also keeps most girls from driving it. ( a good thing)
4sp, best auto. nice OD, nice shirt shifts, that save fuel. and always a better choice when going up hill or wanting to go tad faster.
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Old 04-05-2009, 12:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If I decided to go with the new body style do you think I could put the lift from my 95 on it? A long time ago I found a thread with how to do it but I can't seem to find it. I know the ball joints on the a arms are different but that’s an easy fix. (If any one knows where it located at please post a link) What other differences is there.
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Old 04-05-2009, 12:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Fix it.
it is not that hard . what engine, 8v or 16v.?


new top end gasket kit.
and a lost weekend. (if not warped head ,etc)

wish i lived closer , would make an offer...
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Old 04-05-2009, 12:48 PM   #7 (permalink)
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its the 16v. Its having eletrical issue's also like blinkers,oil light and a/c. Also Will I have to take the cam shaft out to get to the head gasket?...
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Old 04-05-2009, 02:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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sorry yes.
cam out. even to get to head bolts.

A/C yes, i forgot how hot SACR gets ,my Aunt lives on the river.

the electrical can all be fixed 1 by 1. i can help. (will be cheap as long as combo switch is good)
A/C ,no such thing as cheap on that.
but, you can get lucky. (like a bad clutchcoil)

blinkers.
bad lamps or trailer wiring hack job, is top reason.

all can be trouble shot in a linear way.
but engine will come back if not warped or cracked block/head.
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Old 04-05-2009, 03:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Do you know of any good write ups on it.
What special tools do I need?
Should I do piston rings or replace pistons, waterpump, timeing belt ect....?
Also any curve balls you have encounterd while doing this.....
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Old 04-05-2009, 06:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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lots of paths here....
but, min costs?
one is just pull head do the steel rule test on block deck and head ,
make a x with rule fit feeler guages under rule, see if out of spec, warped.

this is all in the FSM.
we have full fsm for 96 online, ask for link, as block and head simular to same.

then we make 2 decisions here.
1: send head out for total rebuild for $300 + grind , seals
2: just reuse head (hope)
no matter
lets install new/ old head.
new top end gasket set, do not follow advice of those who brag , manifolds need not come off ( hey folks, those gaskets have been roasting for almost 20 years)
new head gasket, new intake, new exhaust gasket.

see my lash page, for lash setting horrors on 16v
my tbelt page and cam timing and dizzy timing.

many folks would just swap in a new headgasket and pry.
but please check the deck and head for warpage, at least.


with head off and old, consider new seals. on valve stims. (for sure)
consider measuring the valve stem wear on 1 cyclinder at least, check agains spec on fsm.

before tear down.
engine to TDC #1
valve cover off
turn crank unit #1 cylinder valves are both loose, free lifters valves fully closed #1.
dizzy cap off , mark rotor to bottom of dizzy case (sharpie pin)
look at dizzy clamp, mark base to center of clamp bolt.
dizzy can now come one (and put backs is reverse of above)

drain block and rad.
consider new timing belt , waterpump and belt idler for same.
if pump is going byebye, pull it now , this drains block easiest way.
(i like all the green out and in abucket , i hate the nasty toxic stuff)

id use a felpro headgasket , and nothing less. ( they are very good)

gotchas:
just dizzy ,and lash tools
with no AC or AT engine is a joy to work on. course AC is major pain.
access wise.

timing belt swap
last photo shows block draining antifreeze green sliime.

but you can see the head there ,good.

this is nice 4 cyl motor. with a closed deck. I like it.
the engine has cast iron sleeves. in cylinders.

if the bores look good and not scored and the top ridge is shallow ,its good for
lots more miles.

check compression on the 2 good cylinders now to get a feeling of the life left in engine
add a teaspoon of oil to the 2nd test ,each cylilnder and if pressure stays the same
then there is better odds valves are all good.

there are lots of rebuild sites.
earl Sheibe
DIY
total. you name it.
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