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Old 06-03-2009, 05:28 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I am having the same problem, without any spot lights, but my high beam will work if I pull the switch back (passing mode). It doesn't work in the push forward mode, and the low beam goes out too when the high beam switch is forward. I'm guessing that the combo switch is kaput, because I don't see a high beam relay in the wiring diagram. If I was fitting spotlights I would include a relay in the curcuit. The combo switch is A$370 from Suzuki, so I am looking at trying to fit a push button floor switch, or similar. Any suggestions?
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Old 06-03-2009, 02:28 PM   #12 (permalink)
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he added the spots now it dont work. gotcha.
took me a moment.

if you are rich throw parts till it works ,then fix the broken wire, over here.....

that is correct try a $3 voltmeter and find the real problem every time.

and keep in mind lamps can be different in every country. so dont use drawings from USA and apply them in Germany. get your own.
but.

using my dwg.
#13 attached zip so you get full Hireso photo.
the HL have a fuse for each lamp. (USA rules)
Red is High
red/white wire is Low beam at lamps and at Combo.

a volt meter at the read wire tells you if you have power.
go to high beam see 0v. on the red wire.
yes, then lamps are bad, or no power to L and R lamp fuses.
no.? no zero volts. (ground)
lets say it reads 12v with HL HIGHS turned on.
then the Combo is bad or the ground feed to the combo is bad.

1 measurement and we have the problem before is.
2 measurements.
the black green wire at the combo must read 0v at all times. light on or off.
if not, bad ground.



if you have DRL ,then that is a whole other issue.
tell us what you really have.

if you desire to put on spot lamps this is how.

buy a relay , one that can handle the wattage of your lamps .,total.

your factory HL are powered full time and the Combo ground them.

if that is true for your country or car. then.

get a nice 25amp relay.
at the coil of said relay ,
apply it to 12vdc power feed, full time power or connect it to the cigarette fuse output. ( hot with key on)
the other coil wire goes to the head light RED wire.

now when you turn on HL high, the relay will energize.
does it , good , you now have the relay operational.

next.
wire the common contacts to the battery + via a 20 amp inline fuse.
the other contact of the relay marked NO.(normally open) we tie to the SPOT hot line, the spots are grounded, already so make that so.


now when you turn on the HL to HIGH , the spots come on .
and
the Spots will not blow up that combo switch.
and
the spots will not blow the HL fuse (dangerous to say the least)
and
it wont catch on fire.

see?

if you need a drawing ask.

and answer the other questions. country and DRL.?
cheers


13 dwg = HL
16 dwg = compo feed.
fuse just feeds the HL directly one each. to each HL.

Last edited by jtgh; 07-25-2009 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 06-03-2009, 04:28 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Algads and Sortez,

I have rebuilt my combo switch, here are some pointers:
1. You must remove the wheel to get it off.
2. You must unplug the connector behind the dash, it won't stretch over the steering shaft.
3. You should take pictures of every step, because it is complicated.
4. you can make new contacts out of copper or brass sheet from the hobby shop or an old lamp.
5. You can do it and save a bunch, the dealer price is outrageous, especially when you consider the quantity they built and their volume prices.

Back in the 60's car parts were unbelievely cheap, because of the large manufacturing volume. Then in the 70's they all changed and took advantage of their captive audience.
Now they are out of business (GM and Chrysler) Greed sucks. (They had a little help from our government, who has hidden agendas...IMO)
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In case I forgot to say, my '95 Sidekick was made in Iwata, Japan, I imported to US from Canada, (has DRL), Market code 03 (USA), JLX, 4A/T, 4Dr, 4WD, Hard top, Manual hubs, 1.6L 16V, Factory AC & Cruise, Pwr windows & door locks, 133,000 mi.
MODS: Converted IP from KMPH to MPH, "dislocated" nag circuit, PO bypassed start sw on trans (But still safe with mech interlock), AGA-1201 remote start, JumboDepot armrest, Locally mfg'd VSS in trans. 55Watt HIDs, required mods in Hi/Lo solenoids.
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Old 06-03-2009, 05:05 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks jtgh and dbacon
I'll try these excellent suggestions on the weekend and post back my findings.
Cheers
Al
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Old 06-03-2009, 06:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
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bacon is right on.
there are many ways to skin cat.


manytimes its just dirty too.
but if you back feed 12v bat to the combo , it will be blown out. contacts melted.
the combo grounds load of the lamps.
thanks for all.
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Old 06-07-2009, 05:10 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks jtgh, dbacon and elonja. I dismantled the combo switch and worked out which contacts to clean. Just need to re-assemble now and all is good. Saved me many $$$. Sortez's spotlight problem might be that the earth is toggled by the switch, not the positive, which makes it interesting when wiring up the spotlight relay. It also gives some bogus readings when trying to use a test light on the headlight plug. Need to connect one end of the test light to the positive battery terminal, then use the other end to check the earth via the headlight plug.
Cheers
Al
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Old 06-07-2009, 10:53 AM   #17 (permalink)
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algads,

Glad you fixed it, that is one helluva switch isn't it? I tore into mine because it wore out the left turn signal contact. Just made a new piece out of sheet brass, and Bob's yer uncle!
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In case I forgot to say, my '95 Sidekick was made in Iwata, Japan, I imported to US from Canada, (has DRL), Market code 03 (USA), JLX, 4A/T, 4Dr, 4WD, Hard top, Manual hubs, 1.6L 16V, Factory AC & Cruise, Pwr windows & door locks, 133,000 mi.
MODS: Converted IP from KMPH to MPH, "dislocated" nag circuit, PO bypassed start sw on trans (But still safe with mech interlock), AGA-1201 remote start, JumboDepot armrest, Locally mfg'd VSS in trans. 55Watt HIDs, required mods in Hi/Lo solenoids.
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Old 06-07-2009, 01:34 PM   #18 (permalink)
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that is correct.
Suz HL is hot full time

switch grounds head lights for completion of electrical path.
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Old 08-25-2009, 04:08 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Hey, Im having the same problem. When I push forward the High beams do not come on and the DLR stay on. When I pull the lever towards me the high beams come on.

I replaced the combo switch but the issue still remains. Im at a loss as to where to go next. Ive checked the wires and dont see any burn outs.
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Old 08-25-2009, 04:20 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Do you have the proper schematic so you can trace it out? Generally the headlights get power, then a relay grounds the filament to turn on, you will see it whenyou get the proper schematic.

If you want help you gotta say what your ride is, everybody puts the description in their "signature", makes it a lot easier for the experts (not me) to help you.

I am good with schematics, and I can help you, if you publish the one for your car. At least until the real expert arrives.
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In case I forgot to say, my '95 Sidekick was made in Iwata, Japan, I imported to US from Canada, (has DRL), Market code 03 (USA), JLX, 4A/T, 4Dr, 4WD, Hard top, Manual hubs, 1.6L 16V, Factory AC & Cruise, Pwr windows & door locks, 133,000 mi.
MODS: Converted IP from KMPH to MPH, "dislocated" nag circuit, PO bypassed start sw on trans (But still safe with mech interlock), AGA-1201 remote start, JumboDepot armrest, Locally mfg'd VSS in trans. 55Watt HIDs, required mods in Hi/Lo solenoids.
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