front or rear? details help.
use it , but if it congeals it will go out of balance. but it does work in a bad jam.
far from home....
the front is easier, rear harder.
buy the stud now. get at least 3 spare. have spec. if you need it.
on the front wait till you feel like a brake job or the 7.5k bearing inspection.
then break them off, then with front hubs off, press them back in.
I had 2 that way, it was rust not over tightened, (how would you know?, sorry person was fired with no proof, that is really bad and sad)
I always use antisieze on the stud, for 35 years.
there is a SAE table for correcting for this, for those saying not to.....
then it will never sieze again.
btw , good question.
also, heat can help take it off )100 ft/lbs max. CCW.!!! counter..clock,,,,wise ....
and if hot , while still hot, spray your fav. penetrating lube.
let cool and try again, the cooling creates a vacuum in side threads sucking in lube.
also smack the end of the acorn nut. to help. shock can crumble rust in side.
also take chistle and chistle off end of acorne head (i just did one) then you can apply more
penetrating oil from both sides.
if this is a will , there is a way.
the key is patence and determination.
the gorrilla almost never wins.
cheers
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Just be sure to drive a bit after you put it in so it spreads good. I've used the plug kits on bigger holes too (nail hole size). I use an electric impact for that kind of stuff. My owners manual ('96) calls for 60 ft lbs torque on the lugs, I've heard other ppl say 65.
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