im looking to find out how to replace my rear left wheel bearing on a 96 geo tracker 2wd i needa find out how to take it off and replace the outer bearing any how's would be great thanks for the help.
anyone ever done this? do i gotta drop the drive shaft and remove the pin's inside the axle to side the shaft out to get to the bearing's any help would be great.
off the brake backing plate
slam hammer out the axle.
behold axle, , cut locking collet with cutting wheel ,
have old bearing pressed off and new on.
press on new collet,
grease it to spec.'
reverse process..
IIRC
if you need the full text let me know.
the bub. library has the full text too.
ps pounding on a new bearing will destroy it , unless done in very special way.
takes a perfect fitting pipe to do that, and i wouldnt.
yea man more info would be great im gonna pull it apart this weekend and get it fixed just wanted to know how all to get into the axle to get to the bearing's so do i just take all the brake apart and take out the 4 bolt's holding the plate on the bearing seal and hit it off with a 2x4 or is there pins inside the axle holding it on? thanks for the help.
ive done a few wheel bearing's befor there not that hard i just never messed with a tracker befor and i just bought one and 2 days later the rear wheel bearing went out i was just lookin for info befor i started to tear into it i wasnt sure if the rear had pins in it or just the whole shaft slide's out after u take the 4 bolt's out.
i can send the full fsm proced. if you need it.
in pdf form.
it is pretty much , SOP , job.
how ever it takes a press.
i recommend Back yarders to , pull axle and take it to a machine shop and say
sr , fix this.
$25 bearing, $10 collet. and labor , not much.
with good tools .labor gets cheaper.
many here have done it,
jack car rear end off ground.
drain axle (fsm step1) page 4b6
tire off
drum off
remove both Antilock brakes springs (top of axle) end flange
the four axle shaft rataining nuts behind brake plate off
"do not remove baking plate with axle, or damage will occur to inner seal. (of the 2)
attach slam hammer, slam out axle (step 9) no retainers mentioned at all or shown in PL.
split or grind off collet. FSM shows both ways. and technique and photos.
using a bearing
left and right axles are diff.length. ah , so dont mix them.
id let a pro rebuild the axle with 1 bearing and 2 seals.
if the inner seal is bad you need a real fancy puller to get it out. in the axle housing.
If the bearing is good and all you are doing is repacking, have a 5 gal bucket of water next to you during bearing retainer grinding operation. Every 1/2 minute or so, dunk the shaft and bearing in water to prevent melting of the outer plastic grease retainer. Nothing beyond the brake backing plate holds the bearing in the axle other than the interference fit.
really good advice from scotsman, as always.
yes, do not overheat any of these part is grinding, cut, pour water pour. (fsm warning)
it's a job that at any time, you can bail out. and take the axle to the machine shop
and let them handle it. they do great work and a very low price, compared to stealerships.
Other thoughts: I don't take a chisel to split what is left of the bearing retainer after grinding down the profile: whack it with a chisel at an angle toward the end of grinding-if it rotates, it won't provide much resistance pressing off. I always buy a new outer seal retainer-I don't think you can get a bearing separator under the bearing and the retainer always gets bent upward while pressing the bearing off. Also, the easiest time to replace brake components is when the axle is out. Have an assistant press inwards on the backing plate to secure it while you remove the axle and then secure it to the housing w/ an 8 mm bolt and nut to preserve the OEM sealant while you change the bearing or brake components.
Last edited by the flying scotsman : 03-03-2009 at 03:46 PM.
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