I see a lot of people are having starting and driving problems with the 16v engine. I had these same problems about three years ago. What I found is the capacitors used on the ecu boards are defective and will leak causing corrosen on the circut board relating to everything from won't start to won't start after warm to flat spot in acceleration. Here is what you can do,
1. If capable remove ecu, clean card and repare broken connections with jumpers and replace capacitors (just take old ones to Radio Shack) they can match them
2. Get a used ecu off ebay, but look for one from the norther states as the excessive heat from a car in the sun is what melts the seals on the capacitor causing the leaks. BE very specific as to the type of ecu you have, the year for the 16v is maxed out at 95 or 96, look for a single large yellow connection. If it has two connections and one is green this is 8v and WILL NOT work. Also a auto will NOT sub for a manual or the other way around and also the auto must be the correct on 3AT or 4AT. There will be a label on the ecu that will say something like US FED 4AT or CAL MAN, the other numbers are batch manufacture codes, get as close to the year you have as you can.
I see a lot of people are having starting and driving problems with the 16v engine. I had these same problems about three years ago. What I found is the capacitors used on the ecu boards are defective and will leak causing corrosen on the circut board relating to everything from won't start to won't start after warm to flat spot in acceleration. Here is what you can do,
1. If capable remove ecu, clean card and repare broken connections with jumpers and replace capacitors (just take old ones to Radio Shack) they can match them
2. Get a used ecu off ebay, but look for one from the norther states as the excessive heat from a car in the sun is what melts the seals on the capacitor causing the leaks. BE very specific as to the type of ecu you have, the year for the 16v is maxed out at 95 or 96, look for a single large yellow connection. If it has two connections and one is green this is 8v and WILL NOT work. Also a auto will NOT sub for a manual or the other way around and also the auto must be the correct on 3AT or 4AT. There will be a label on the ecu that will say something like US FED 4AT or CAL MAN, the other numbers are batch manufacture codes, get as close to the year you have as you can.
3. Get the ecu remanufactured 125.00 to 250.00
I hope this helps someone
1) You must be talkin surface mount cap's; curious how many you were actually able to repair. I actually found radio shack never has what ya need specially 16v. Usually pretty easy to find though since majority is fuel pump driver circuit.
2) ECU from early models "automatic" will work temporarily in place on a "manual", maybe not 100% but it will usually work to get ya going. You are correct though it will not work at all from standard to auto!
3) Think your prices aren't quite accurate though; maybe $125.00 clean and test your ECU only but you have to send your ECU to them. That would be when you get non repairable and another $200.00 besides
Need an ECU for a 97 JLX SPORT 5 SPD...... got one
my ecu page shows you the link to digital man, $70 ( web page and EBAY listed)
we have 20 or so here fixed by him.
you are correct, my aT ecu runs fair in my MT car. for 2 years now. (not perfect)
i bid every MT ecu that comes up. none to be had.
no ,not surface mount, the parts are Radial type, can with 2 leads out bottom
they all leak from 89 to 95, like clock work.
the 100% failure of "Rubycon" brand is assured.
no 2 radio shacks are the same, (unless you special order)
so use Mouser, my web page explains that, and has links into Mouser.
the are others too
Digikey.
MSM electronics (they stock jap transistors too !!!)
mouser is a lightning bolt, fully automated shipping, and dirt cheap.
the prices get higher if the supplier ships first or has a life time warranttee,
if ecu is flakey,
replace the corner cap (large can) next to the main power connector.
i have them labled on my page.
some ECU are sightly diff.
but the parts are in the same general location and look the same (not color)
anyone who can solder can replace them.
ask any Ham radio operator or any TV shop.
for these people this is childs play. (solder sucker ,iron, done)
if you need better advice, then send a HR photo of it here.
then I will point it out.
cost = 0
we have repaired about 50 in 2 years here.
curious how they leak, curious how the are 0 micro farads and curious how the cause the
ecu to crash, not.
LOL
we have 2 postings here, where the acid on the main cap leaked and
destroyd the surface mount cap.
i gave the valve, he repaired it and is back on the road.
where the boric acid runs and destroys is and act of Radom chance (you live on a hill)
gravity does what gravity wants. hahahahaha
btw all advice good above.
Do a google search on China Capacitors going bad and class action law suits.
the cloned the formula for the electrolyte ( stole it actually) and funny thing
the stolen document had errors, and they many millions of bad caps.
they ALL LEAK and blow out.
the top companies of these caps , do not disclose how they stop that. from happening.
looks like Rubycon , was just leaning when they made these.
also the heat and dry work together to kill the caps.
check out cab temperatures in Arizona. ouch.
I have antique Electronic equip, some with panasonic caps running for 40 years now.
NEC knows what quality is.
I said radio shack as a fast or last resort, i go there, rarely, if ever.
but if you are stranded, a 100 uf 100vdc cap will get you going, or close.
any would be better than no filter at all.
give it a try.
if you have trouble finding sources, just whistle
cheers.
need an ecu for 8v , AT, dirt cheap. A+ cond. ( i got 3 )
got one to swap for 8v mt , swap me.
my ecu page shows you the link to digital man, $70 ( web page and EBAY listed)
we have 20 or so here fixed by him.
you are correct, my aT ecu runs fair in my MT car. for 2 years now. (not perfect)
i bid every MT ecu that comes up. none to be had.
no ,not surface mount, the parts are Radial type, can with 2 leads out bottom
they all leak from 89 to 95, like clock work.
the 100% failure of "Rubycon" brand is assured.
no 2 radio shacks are the same, (unless you special order)
so use Mouser, my web page explains that, and has links into Mouser.
the are others too
Digikey.
MSM electronics (they stock jap transistors too !!!)
mouser is a lightning bolt, fully automated shipping, and dirt cheap.
the prices get higher if the supplier ships first or has a life time warranttee,
if ecu is flakey,
replace the corner cap (large can) next to the main power connector.
i have them labled on my page.
some ECU are sightly diff.
but the parts are in the same general location and look the same (not color)
anyone who can solder can replace them.
ask any Ham radio operator or any TV shop.
for these people this is childs play. (solder sucker ,iron, done)
if you need better advice, then send a HR photo of it here.
then I will point it out.
cost = 0
we have repaired about 50 in 2 years here.
curious how they leak, curious how the are 0 micro farads and curious how the cause the
ecu to crash, not.
LOL
we have 2 postings here, where the acid on the main cap leaked and
destroyd the surface mount cap.
i gave the valve, he repaired it and is back on the road.
where the boric acid runs and destroys is and act of Radom chance (you live on a hill)
gravity does what gravity wants. hahahahaha
btw all advice good above.
Do a google search on China Capacitors going bad and class action law suits.
the cloned the formula for the electrolyte ( stole it actually) and funny thing
the stolen document had errors, and they many millions of bad caps.
they ALL LEAK and blow out.
the top companies of these caps , do not disclose how they stop that. from happening.
looks like Rubycon , was just leaning when they made these.
also the heat and dry work together to kill the caps.
check out cab temperatures in Arizona. ouch.
I have antique Electronic equip, some with panasonic caps running for 40 years now.
NEC knows what quality is.
I said radio shack as a fast or last resort, i go there, rarely, if ever.
but if you are stranded, a 100 uf 100vdc cap will get you going, or close.
any would be better than no filter at all.
give it a try.
if you have trouble finding sources, just whistle
cheers.
need an ecu for 8v , AT, dirt cheap. A+ cond. ( i got 3 )
got one to swap for 8v mt , swap me.
Local supplier for digikey always demands bulk purchase before they order!
Our local radio shack outlets have mostly closed by now.
My mistake; I thought I referred to 16 volt.... not sure why that rings a bell but the Rubycon cap's yea I know the failure rate.... I had the Rubycon blow out the surface mount and stuffin all over the darn place....
Problem is locally if I can find the right mic's I want, voltage spec is usually higher than I ask for but I always treat that with respect since alot of my occupation is in electronic controls I have also seen the hazards that can occur from non engineered repairs..like a guy almost killed when the electric lift jammed and took the operator into high voltage power lines.... "NOT GOOD" but after investigation it was caused by a negligient bypass repair... thanks goodness it wasn't my butt!
thats' called vital controls, my job ! now.
these parts are never to be substituted. with wrong parts.
and read the fine print of avery major and it says, not for vital circuits or hospital grade usage.
so when you send your ecu to job blow from ebay , what are you getting.
a: who knows.? but it is cheap and they are effective.
the suzi shop charges $1400 for an ecu, see anyone buying those.?
you can send to to job blow, do it your self or buy a new one.
it is your choice.?
not only are the caps at mouser top of the line , they are fully spec'd out.
and your ecu will never, ever, control your brakes the throttle (like my 04 chev) or the
steering wheel.
all it can do is die ,sputter, or waste fuel and foul the air.
get the same , uf ,same volt , and 85 deg C. rating and the lowest ESR you can find.
and a top brand, not REd STAR, (not sold at mouser btw)
You dont have to be an engineer to replace a capacitor.
The shop i work out of has been going for 35 years. all vital circuits.
High speed propulsion controls too.
we are very careful. Not ever one mishap.
just be sure you understand all the parameters of the device ,and match them.
C,V, temperature, ESR, formfactor, ( and thermal cycling effects)
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
94 starting problems
Linear Mode
