Ticking sound cold / warm engine ???

[redbrand]

Hello to all, first time post.

Here is the run down. Over the past few months when starting it up
on a cold morning there is a obvious ticking sound coming from the valve
area - towards the back of the valve cover. Rev it a little while cold and
you cannot here it. Once warm it greatly quites but it is still present.

It is a 16V and I am using recommend oil weight / syn oil.

What can I check for under the valve cover once I remove to investigate??
From my understanding there is no valve adjustment on this style of over head type cam engine ?? I have worked on alot of engines but just not this
style.

Any info will help - thanks !!

[redbrand]

I forgot add that it wasn't doing this about 5k miles back and it seems
like it is getting worse or louder over a period of time. No lose of power
and runs / idles great but mileage has dropped a small amount. Also I am due to change my oil change but the oil still looks all most clear on the dip stick and is at the normal level.

[automated11]

Your engine does require valve adjustments. Search for posts by JTGH he has the whole process outlined.

[fuzzy1]

The other thing to consider: has the timing belt been done?? I'm in this boat atm... don't know for sure. It MUST be done & yours is near the top mileage to do it before your valves crash into your pistons & make BIG expensive mess. How long have you had it? If you know it's been done, then yeah, valve lash adjustment. If not... do it, & the valve lash adjustment is part of the procedure. g/l

Fuzz

[jtgh]

fuzzy is right.
please try doing the PM's the Preventative Maintenance in the manual.

new tbelt.
set cam timing. lash is on the list and req. at tbelt swap
set igntion time to spec.
full and complete tune up
all fluids (tranny too)
motor oil.
and consider using the oil shown on the op guide.
see it , it dont mention syn oil.
this is a non syn oil designed engine. "read the corvette manual it says, designed for syn oil" { on line they explain all the things the did, tighter clearances, etc)

run the proper weight oil for you climate and the tappets will be far quieter.

you ever have a solids engine before?

my chev vortex has roller rocker / hydraulic lifted valves.
they had or are having problems with syn and cams,
Chev said that was their insurance the lifters. (and for economy) ($$ not cheap)

in fact you might consider the new high mileage oils.

I now , drive it tell it dies. then fix it

cheers.

I worked in both the electronics field for 15 years, and transportation tech field for the rest. 15 more. I specialize in electronic controls exclusively today. 1 year from retirement.
i do not do suspensions or brakes anymore, , just engines and drive-ability issues.
I help mostly on "found on road dead" i get emails each week for help via stranded ppl.
I have been very lucky in my craft$ and want to give back to others for free.
I am no master, just another wrench. My opinions are just that, ImHo, Ymmv
happy trails

Hint: stay liquid

[redbrand]

Thanks for all of the replys guys. I have owned the little ride since last year.
And most positive the T Belt has not been touched. So I will plan on replacing
and lash adjustment. Return back to the spec'd OEM oil and hopefully this will
correct the problem and some preventive maintence in the process. Now just need to find the time.

[rickf]

Originally Posted by redbrand

And most positive the T Belt has not been touched. . Now just need to find the time.

Find the time lots of money if it is the t-belt and it breaks
rickf

[jtgh]

there is a low level fail here.
one of the cam lifter shaft bolts coming loose.
take of VC (valve cover) sorry me lazy and use tons of jargon,
TB throttle body, and all sensor names. its on the first EFI page of my web site.
all jargon. only like 15 things. ECT, IAT, ect.


look check each bolt under the cover to be sure it meets the troque specification
of my torque page, again, the first links on my page has a spinning wrench.
click the wrench,
i check these bolts, and the few head bolts(some are not accesable with cam in)
and then proceed with the TBELT.
that is in no book but any good mech, knows to check these things, 5 mins is all it takes , wrench in hand,.

the last guy did the head gasketwrong is common.
i check them , for being under torqued. (using a torsion beam torque wrench)
if i find one, is off, they ALL get re-troqued in the stages shown in the FSM.

we have had the valve rocker caps loosen.
is see these same philips headed engines, are now staked.
91 NO, but after this my 8v became staked.

google staking bolts to understand it.

it is a factory procedure now. on some suz, engines.

I hope your tblelt is NOT slipped. if you even suspect it has , please stop driving it.

happy trails.