ECU PRoblems

[recurver]

Hello everyone

I'm Rene i live in the Netherlands, i own a vitara from 1992

to be short

The engine don't start (don't fire)
with a relay oscillated (the fuel pump relay)
i replaced the capacitors,
I think the m5262l is broken.
Is there a replaced for this?

the relay is ok (switched with the main)
12 volt is not dropping on connector B2

[ranger88den]

Rene, we're out here.
My ECU is bad, now what?

[jtgh]

is this 8v or 16v?
hi Rene,
the green socketed Fuel pump relay is chattering.
ok, that happens alot. here. but is caused by many things.
usually it is power related.
Does your CEL lamp stay solid and glow at key on ?

next do you have clean 12v at pins a12 and A13, 16v
or
b1 and b7 on 8valve engine.

there are many things that can short out and kill or overload ECU.
list
disconnect ground for fuel pump at RR tail light, behind there in cavity is a ground lug
that is black and at 2 -3pm position.
this may stop the clicking.
showing a short in fuel pump.

the blue/black wire feed can be shorted at all points, see drawings on link. above.

you have power loss to ECU if B16 8v is toggling. m5262l is not broken I bet !
i bet power is bouncing or is very low on one of the power feeds.
or ground to ecu is bad,
the grounds are at Distributor base screw, and at thermostat base screw.
and all outside fire wall ground screws and behind battery.

first make sure ground is not bouncing.
then make sure power is clean on output of MAIN relay.
tell us engine type.
i have schematics and have harness routing drawings.

cheer.

[recurver]

thanks for the reply,

after a few measurements and good listening i found out that
under the hood there was also the ocillating noise after i pulled
the connector to i think the IAC the oscillating of the relay was gone.
So i think that there's a short circuit ,
is the a value in ohm's ??
and can i replace it by myself?? (costs?)

and have somebody had the same problem?

will be continued



ps it is a 8v engine


with regards

René

[jtgh]

Generally ,not you, specifically. ( we get lots of these here)
yes, we do know now that the 8v will HUNT. ( the ECU is coded to do that trick)
the idle will surge as a result. ( but your car is no start)

if something makes causes a failure of the idle loop (ECU <> IAC) then it hunts.
ECU keeps slamming it open full then closed think it can unstick the IAC.
this makes the idle Surge.

or that HUNTING is just the ECU rebooting , See ?
now we identified the engine we can talk specifics, exhibit A:
the road map:
http://carfix.stufftoread.com/ECU/91...matic-base.jpg

with a voltmeter look at B1/B7 , it must hold at 12 to 12.5vdc at key on, no surging of the voltage (varying).
B7 is power, B1 is ECU memory pin.
Pin A23 is 5vdc refr. power from ECU to certain sensors. it must be at 5vdc key on.

you could have :
shorted Fuel pump.
or shorted solenoids.
pulling them can help isolate the short.

the coils on the car are either 15 ohm or 35v. depends on which ones. it's in the FSM.
i can look it up.
iac spec is 11-14 ohms at 68F.

make sure Alternator is not cause of voltage stability issues. it has a regulator inside that can go crazy.


all this info is for 92 8v, ecu suffix 56B30 or 56B40 , type ECUs.
all 92 ECU's here , just love to blow out the boric acid inside the Large electrolytic capacitors inside, 1 to 3 caps.
I never fail to not look inside all 92 Vitaras (kicks or trackers).
My ECU is bad, now what?


common fails like this:
1: ecu
2: bad wiring , critical to ECU ops, Power and ground .
3: corroded fuel panels , inside or in engine bay.
4: shorted fuel pump.
5: bad main relay (you swapped it , so not that)
6: Prev. ower put in bogus alarm, remote start or what ever and wrecked the primary wiring. (critcal to ecu and EFI ops)

check power to ecu
look of shorted loads.
check ecu , for blown and leaking caps.
check alterator. for ( impossible for no starts)

Now you :

you key on, no start.
you here FP relay bouncing (normal is 1 click at key on, then off after 3 seconds) then stays off until next key on.
but rapped clicking means:
1: ecu is rebooting due to overload or loss of power to same.
2: fuel pump is shorted (or the feed)
3: ecu bad.

the clicking iAC is just more proof the ECU is rebooting , over and over.

that should get you going.

cheers.

[recurver]

hi there,

i measured the current to the fuelpump appr. 3 a 4 amp.
further i replaced the tantal capacitor
the 5 v and 12 volt are ok and stabil
futher on the diagnostic connector i placed and paperclip
on key on there was only a stabil ignitionlight no morse sign
so i think ecu death

or

with regards
René

[jtgh]

8v 92, No start. in NL. ( is used to work for Philips. semi, great co.)

http://carfix.stufftoread.com/ECU/diag-conn1aw.jpg

this is mine, next to it is a smaller uglier yellow 4 pin connector.
this is the DLC connector. place the jumper. B to C, as shown, note lock tang on top.
if you jump it , the CEL MUST FLASH out some codes, 1 code or many.

http://carfix.stufftoread.com/ECU/P&G.JPG

if above power is good.
then the ecu is bad. ( the only other idea is that an output on the ECU is shorted)

before i condemed my ECU.
id pull all solenoid devices and the injector connectors. (they all have locks)
disconnect all loads.
see if you can get code 12 or if pulled you should get many codes.
pull sensors next. (usually sensors can make a ecu fault (it will throw a code)but the ECU will not malfunction as yours is clearly doing.

ECU malfunction is what you have.

[recurver]

I order a ecu

yesterday i received it and it's running

so thanks everybody for the hints,

it's was usefull for troubleshooting

with regards

René