1996 GEO Tracker "EGR" valve???

[IBJIBN1]

Hello..

I was wondering if anyone else is having the same issues and me.

I seems like once a year my service engine light comes on..I bring it to my mechanic and the code for "EGR Flow" comes on.

What's up with that? Is is the type of gasoline now adays..just seems like this should not happen as often as it does.

It's really a great little vehicle...with the new england winters and with a soft top it gets a little chilly but I can suck it up and deal with it. I know when it's cold the engine is a little loud till it warms up. Not to mention how well it does in snowy driving conditions. It's actually better that my old Jeep Cherokee.

Thanks..Looking forward to any inputs you all may have

[Bear95]

Welcome to the forum. Please do a seach here and you will find the answer. Is your mechanic Suzuki/Geo trained? The reason I ask is that eventhough I was taking mine to a GM dealer to fix this problem, they had no idea about the port that needs to be cleaned inside the TB. I found out about it here and fixed it myself....for free! Never had the problem again.
Bear

[IBJIBN1]

Hi..

Thanks for your reply..

What is the "TB" thing you were mentioning..?

My mechanic knows his stuff...and he has mentioned to me that there is a valve that gets clogged and he blows it out. he did that in the past and it helped for a "short" period.

The other problem is how do you shut the light off?

thanks again
Ken

[Bear95]

Throttle Body. After the metal tube that goes from the EGR up to the intake is removed there is an opening that goes into the intake. This port is often overlooked . The best way to clean it is to hold open the TB plate, reach inside the TB and clean out the hole. I used a gun cleaning kit to do mine. Other people have used bent wire...whatever works. The hole is about the size of a dime when clean. Just blowing out the hole at the connection will not dislodge the carbon, you have to do it through the TB. Also make sure your tube is clean.
Disconnect your Battery for a few minutes to reset the light.
Bear

[Bear95]

All of this info is on jtgh page and with pictures.

[jtgh]

YOur car is 1.6L 16v 1996 Tracker.
welcome.

and photos too.

http://carfix.stufftoread.com/sensor...r-tube-end.jpg

provided by nice folks here.
this is with the freeze plug out. (just for illistration)

top fails.
clean the whole path ,end to end,
do the stall test. if it fails. then it is not clean. (89-98 1.6L , not on 1.8L it's diff)
if car has mod valve and all the other bits, and the path is clean and it still fails, then
you must test each part.
if that passes , then rarely one must do the live test.

you didnt say how many miles your are driving to get P0400 ,/
10k, or 50k

EGRs are all high maintenance.

on a 96 , it might not even be the EGR !!!

there are 2 tests.
if you rent a full scan tool you can pull down the freeze frame.
this shows you whitch of the 2 tests are failing !

it also shows you what the numbers were.

test 1 is a above 28mph cruise test.
test 2 is a DeCeleration test.

if engine has air leaks, the EGR may fail.

its like the DR saying, you have high blood pressure.
but.
you lost your job and the 401k has tanked. sucks huh
but that ,is a false positive. (good heart, bad economy) LOL.

are you only failing P0400.? any other codes setting? throwing?

also the real scan tool can show pending fails , that erase before they set. (marginal fails)

low vacuum , exhaust leaks, sticking valves. bad MAF, TPS or all on the list of bad things that can cause a EGR DTC to throw.
in fact that is the first line in the book. Make sure the sensors are working. maf,tps,etc.

What I would do is make sure the EGR is not leaking and stuck open (main valve)
if that is ok.
then I would check all sensors first for correct data
then air leaks and exhaust cracks.

many here look under exh. shields and just cry. CRACKS>>> everywhere......
"I know when it's cold the engine is a little loud till it warms up."
dont get me wrong, if engine is sound and EFI is sound.
the P0400 is telling the truth.

what is total mileage on car.
have you replaced the PCV valve ever. it might be stuck open or wrong size.?
If engine has lots of blowby, it will clog EGR faster.

I would suspect bad gas last.

[Bear95]

jtgh..thanks for putting up the link for him.
Bear

[automated11]

Quick question. Is there any tips on getting these bolts out if stuck? I am going to clean my EGR in the next few weeks and would like some tips if I run into problems.

Thanks,

Jason

[ranger88den]

Penetrating oil or heat usually works to loosen fasteners. I personally have reworked 3 Tracker EGR systems without the need for either and I live in the rust belt. If using a torch, please be careful and have a fire extinguisher handy. Good luck with your project.

[jtgh]

Try not to burn fingers, please/......
all above. and.
also , heat it and stop, then spray penetrating oil on it.
let the vacuum created in side threads, suck in that pen. oil.
but if that dont work heat ,is your last hope.

do you fail the stall test?

push diaphragm, (best is to use vacuum hand tool to vacuum nipple on EGR that way you get 4 tests in one !!!)
1: diaphragm moves and engine stalls or almost does.
2: do a fast leak down on egr main. now, cracked diaphargm?
3: you tested the diaphram can move via vacuum.
4: you found that the piston shaft moves a full stroke, see it move ?
all this is in the FSM and lots more on this sub.....

test 5, remove MAIN EGR and make sure it is NOT stuck open,
make sure that it move freely agains spring,
make sure the spring is not GONE, rusted to nothing or weak as a cat.
make sure there are no cracks in the housing.
make sure it is not full of carbon.
make sure valve closes fast and completely on removal of 8inches of HG (spec)

it is a spring loaded valve, operated by vacuum.
all can be tested but proper spring tension. (that is a black art)

cheers