89 sidekick with new motor dumping gas

[ftjew@uaf.edu]

replaced motor on 89 sidekick purchased with no history. initially dumping fuel and flooding. sent computer to david in minnesota (excellent guy and service). he sent back calling open in injector circuit. i WOT to set unflood mode and starts perfectly running smooth. take off wot and still more flooding. stays running but just dumping fuel. checked jerry's site but cant find step by step test for open. can anybody out there help. i can find my way around the electrical but no means an expert. any advice that helps would guarantee my first born your name!! thanks in advance

[jtgh]

sorry for your sick engine !!!
please explain in details your terms.
dumping fuel , is that a leak. ?

i think you are saying the car likes to flood at the drop of a hat. (yes, huh?)
test for open of what?

this is the 8v engine, making it far easy to fix. and test.
1 injector, which can be watched in any mode, sitting, cranking, idling and racing.
cool huh ?

i do not know the history of your engine. or before.
replaced motor. ok.

if you replaced the motor ,did you do any testing of it to be sure it is a good air pump.
eg: compression test, vacuum test, inspect timing belt for proper time and Ignition timing , or just a straight swap and pry.?
If tested compression on engines , sitting on a pallet. (need bell housing and starter and 1 battery) Saves tons of grief and labor.

history is everything as is context and what was done.

Personally : I'd
do a compression test just to see , is it an engine or is it a pile of junk. GO, NOGO.?
150PSI on all cycl. even PSI , as possible all 4.

your symtoms could be caused many things.

WOT start, cuts fuel and it starts , proving the flooded state.
why it floods can take many a path.

I presume it starts WOT and then with R.foot relaxed it dies (flooded again)

1: lack of air. ( can you start car with 5-10% exta throttle (this is air actually)?)
yes,then this proves lack of air.
2: too much fuel (clogged return line, bad fuel pressure reg.
3: bad motor. (100 things, here can be wrong) compression test elliminates most.


your Injector reads 1 ohm, never ever hot wire it, or you will destroy it.
0.8 to 1.2 ohms is the spec on this injector.
if its open , you get no fuel at all .

instead of that: Test 1:
1: remove air horn. (plactic cap first then bolts,)
2: key on 5 times while looking down horn (mirror helps)
person 1 keys on (not starting ok?) each key on the pump spins for 3 seconds.
what we are doing here is looking at the injector tip. in side throttle body.
here:
http://carfix.stufftoread.com/fresh-...inj-view1w.jpg

look from side, and look for these conditions:
1: it may squirt one 1 time at key on , beginning moment..
2: after above squirt (my be very tiny or none) and be sure after that it dont just sit there and dribble for 1 minute or more.
if it dribbles or you are really cautious , then unplug the injector wire conn.
this kills it. now key one
3: the injecter must not squirt or dribble , if it does , IT IS BAD , have it cleaned by witchunter.com

that is the TEST1.

flooding is complex.
if extra gas pedal air starts car (not WOT) then you car is starving for air
or the ECU is over fueling.

the ECT is the primary reason the ECU might over fuel.
if it reads -40c when it is 10C then it is bad and ECU uses tons of fuel because it thinks your are parked on the N. Pole.

YOu didnt mention the CEL lamp.
you didnt mention , did you do a tune up on the car.

the IAC can be clogged, (in the base of TB , throttle body)
the IAC , electric (right side of T can be clogged and dead.

tricks
unplug IAC elect conn. see if it starts and runs better. (do not force it , it has locks)
next put back conn. now disconnect top air host to same IAC.
this is the main air hose.
start car, make sure it suck air real loudly , feel it, it has good flow.
if you plug hole (not hose the steel nipple) this will cause idle to drop too low.
that is a normal IAC electric.ops.

lets do tests, lets find out what is really wrong.

Keep in mind it could be anything,
even a dribbling injector,( i call a snotty nose)
injectors can and do , stick open.



this car , this engine. , this Throttle body.
was it ever sitting for a long time the TB , that is ? with old fuel in it.
then someone started it and ran bad fuel thru that injector.

the injector is $19 to have cleaned.
with a full flow test and data sheet , attached.
i can show you mine and we can compare, if need be.

tells us more.
cheers

[jtgh]

Why-engine-flooding?

17 on the list. (can you think of more?)

finding out which one it is, can be expensive .

any engine efi that floods.
1: tune , no junk parts, quality real NGK,DENSO, or Bosch parts, no "RedStar brands" LOL (last flooder here, melted spark wires.... so much for quality parts....)

2: then make sure fuel pressure is good, see link. in side page above.
The ECU can not compensate for super high fuel pressure.
that is why this important check is #2.
the ecu has no live pressure monitoring method, so must TRUST that YOU have it correct. U, should not skip this critical test. it is extremely important.

3: on yours, the o-rings can crack, and it can be watched, as it leaks.
if it don't leak , it is not the cause of flooding, (if you had a clogged injector you'd have opposite symptoms)
if above ok:?

4: no engine is worth working on , unless you know its general health.
That can be determined with a compression test and a vacuum test.
if both tests pass, then you have a serviceable engine.
The engine is an air pump. if it can not pump efficiently the EFI can not compensate and WILL mess up.

5: You could have a clogged up Cat Con, ( this device loves to melt with the presences of raw gas, and lots of air) it is usually a victim of some other failure and rarely the cause. , see CAT con test. on my fast test page. it shows 5 ways to test it. (not all)

How to test sensor and actuators

this page shows how to test each sensor.
the CAT is not a sensor but it is critical to the system as a whole.
as long as the honey comb is not melted ,you are ok. if it can breath, the engine can run.

this is the top 5. IMHO.

what is wrong with your car, could be one of the other 12 items listed on link at top.

cheers.

A tech. works thru this list , and tries to do the the tests in the following order.
1: can the engine pump air.
2: is cat con clogged.
3: Why is EFI dumping fuel?, and the first test is always fuel pressure. always.!