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Old 01-12-2009, 10:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Red face Developing tranny problem??

'96 Tracker 5 speed:

This rig up until I bought it was a "tow behind" owned by a retired preacher so it never, ever saw any 4wheeeling. I have since put a 3" Calmini body lift in it and put a set of 29x7x15 directional mud kings on it.

I have had it in the snow several times with no problems but recently it does not want to go into 5th or reverse(mainly reverse is the problem). It feels kind of like a bent shifting fork. It will go into 5th and reverse but not near as easily as it used to. Today up in the hills it would only go into reverse at an idle, any rpm's left in the motor and it would grind like it had no synchros.?? Bent shifting fork maybe??? Bad syncro? Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 01-12-2009, 10:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sounds like the clutch is not releasing fully for some reason. Is there any free-play at the top of the clutch pedal travel?
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Old 01-12-2009, 11:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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shifts ok in drive way with engine off?
no shift with engine running, bad clutch!, but even in drive way?

do my 1 inch rule after adjusting free play to 1/2 inch.

id check tranny oil lever at right side plug too, who knows how long, right?
My clutch is sick what is wrong

see acid test step 4


the 5th issues could be a bad plastic tip on the end of shift lever. (console removal +)

Last edited by jtgh : 01-12-2009 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 01-13-2009, 11:03 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Yes it does it in the driveway, it doesn't even matter if the engine is running, it is the same. It almost seems to improve after I drive it a while.

Yes checked tranny oil and it is full. Is it true GL5 oil can cause shifting issues in these transmissions? If so I think I'll change the oil.

It feels like it's just barely hanging up on something when shifting, and it is actually harder to get out of gear than put in.

I will check the clutch as maybe it is just out of adjustment and possibly not disengaging enough, maybe too much play in cable. I don't think the clutch is junk yet as it never slips and in fact I've always been impressed with how much bite it has. I'm pretty sure I didn't strip out the pedal splines as everything checks out tight.

When I installed the body lift a few weeks ago I removed the shifter to heat and bend for a better angle. When I removed it the tranny end was covered in grease that I wiped off so I could work with it better, but my buddy that was helping with the install put the shifter back in and when I asked him if he covered it with grease he said no. Could this be a problem? I figured there was enough grease left in the top of the tranny.

All suggestions appreciated.
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Old 01-13-2009, 01:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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first off:
the clutch can go bad , many ways, yours is dragging which is the direct opposite of slipping. they can grab , chatter, collapes and lock, and and disentagrate. (and more)

so lets stay in the drive way. if it dont shift there, it is bad. K.I.S.S rule. LOL.

Either you are NOT engaging a gear, or it is grinding, 1 or the other.
if it grinds it is a clutch issue, if you can engage, it is a shifter issue.

when in the drive way. you depress the clutch pedal and it has trouble entering first gear? or any gear for that matter. ? not moving just parked.?

if that is true at any level?, any grinding at all, then the clutch is not completely disengaging. (for any of the many reasons they do that)

Trouble shooting:
all clutches:
adjust the play is to spec. (always forever first)
if after adjusting the play, it still drags, then step 2 comes next.
2: someone pushes pedal ( I will assume here the pedal is fully retracted by the spring)
and press the pedal from top to the bottom floor boards.

while doing that someone else, is under car. looking at PN 19 (see photo) and holding
a simple ruler next to it with one end pressed to PN 21 bracket.
this person measures the full stroke of part 19, exactly.

bingo, you now have your answer.
if it moves at least 1 inch , the cars clutch linkage is good.
if it does not, then the clutch or tranny is bad.

BODY problem, or trainline problem ( the problem is instantly cut in 1/2)

cool huh?


next answer shifter
the shifter when removed, has 2 plastic parts on the end.
1 is a concave washer
2 is the tip guide.
both must be good, #2 is critical to shifting, if it is missing , shifting will suck.

point 2,
this portion of the extened gear rack is not lubricated by the tranny lube.
It is isolated. and you must assure it is lube your self.
look , access condition, take action.

if dry . lube it, if dirty clean it/and lube it, if well lubed, leave it alone and do not remove good lube.

that is the first steps.

see part 19 and 27 both are high fail items .

http://carfix.stufftoread.com/tranny/shifting/rails.JPG


you need to exactly specific what the gears do , good and what the do bad.

if part 27 is broken, missing etc, (link above)
Rev. and 5th will be hard.
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Old 01-13-2009, 08:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Problem Solved!

Cable just needed adjusted, it wasn't allowing the clutch to fully disengage.

I inspected the cable and found no wear points. Are they known to stretch?

Anyway much better than having a tranny problem.

Thanks for all the great advice.
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Old 01-13-2009, 10:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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its a service point, all mech. clutchs ,must be adjusted for free play.
as the clutch disc wears the linkage, increase 6 times that amount.
so you adjust linkage ever 25k-50k or so.
depends on who slips clutch.

the cable will never stretch, same as the Golden gate bridge dont sag.
how ever the cable inside can snap 1 strand at time and then fry and get longer as the other over load and stretch.
It will let you know in short order

it can be a sign of impending doom for the clutch.
if the throwout is collapsing or the Pressure plate fingers are losing there temper.
then things start drifting...
mybe the old folks drove every inch with foot ridding the clutch and wrecked a good throw out bearing.
ive seen it.
and holding clutch in at red lights,
etc.
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Old 01-14-2009, 12:34 AM   #8 (permalink)
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these things have a cable?
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Old 01-14-2009, 08:38 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Is it true that the newer GL5 rated oils cause problems in these trannys? I was told to only run GL4. I didn't even know 90wt. had these ratings.
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Old 01-14-2009, 02:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
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yes, a cable, 96+ sports don't. 1.8L Sidekicks have a Hydra. clutch operator.
look under radiator bottom tank ,see big black cable. Bingo,

or just look a the link above. an actual blow up diagram.

the lube you run can be important if you live in far Northern extremes.
some run Syn. lubes up there, ask a Canadian what he runs.
down to -30C for 75w, see attached.
the chart is clear, huh? put it in glove box. (like a new car)

I am amazed that PPL think clutches can only slip.


I would not run Hypoid GL5 in the tranny because it EATS synco rings.
some dont now, but which ones, ahhhhhh, now that is a good question.
run GL4 if you are careful.

Last edited by jtgh : 01-19-2009 at 12:34 PM.
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