abused 95 sidekick needs help

[Jay in Oregon]

I Have a 95 4 door sidekick with over 250,000 miles its an auto, my rear diff is making noise (howling) I have a 96 2 door with 135,000 miles no motor or trans, it was an auto, can I swap the rear end? the noisy one I can't get the fill plug out it just spins, looks like it has been leaking from the front there is sticky dirty goo on the upper diff support, also 4X4 disent work, if I spin the front driveline both front hubs seem to ingage but when I need 4X4 it dosent work I can also spin the front drive line with the rear end on the ground in 4wheel any Idea how bad this is? Oh and the fill plug is stuck tight on the transfer case, heat? oil? anybody know what works best? By the way I love this zuk it drives great besides the above listed problems and at 250,000 what more can I ask for.
thanks for any help

[jtgh]

heat the plug.(propane tortch works ok)

the suz mfg put this sealant on it that turns to glue after time. (tuff as nails too)
heat weakens the glue bond and it will then come out. all have this.
not sure about swaps, they can be touchy.

id check the front locking hubs, see if they are good, it has a 7.5kmile service point.
they either lock or they dont.
with any wheel up one grab a wheel and the cv and just feel if it locks. left and right hand on each.
it wont , i bet.
no one ever maintains these hubs. manual or auto locks?
swap out of front hub bearings
the whole deal.

id never assume an axle ration. must match front and rear.
the are many alxes. manual tranny and 2 sizes for autos.
autos pull tall gears, due to the slush in tranny.

there is a simple axle ratio test.
one wheel up , one down and some kids chaulk.
mark and count turns.

need link, to it , hollar.

cheers.

[Jay in Oregon]

my hubs are auto hubs, I am really wondering it the 96(2 door) front and rear ends will bolt up and work in the 95 4 door, I know the ratios may be different but if I change them both that shouldn't matter, the 96 has manual hubs 1 is in a bag Broken, my auto hubs should go in, not sure though.
I like your web page theres allot of time involved there and Im sure I will be looking there in the future.thanks for your responce.

[jtgh]

auto matic hubs. ok forget above.
that is diff.
they lock when you drive in 4wd.
if they dont then they are dry,dirty ,siezed or broken. it is a frequent service point.
not inspecting them results in this situation and not lubing them after inspecting them and finding them in great need.

testing autolocks is not too easy or fun. ( and dangerous off ground)
other than, what attached page shows says. (engage and drive, magic)


if they are cleaned and lubes and not broken up inside ,they will lock.
if they are good, testing them can be a hazard.

Personally i dislike them (driving backwards to unlock them is silly)
and if the dont engage? , or disengage? when desired , then what?
skid? or wind UP? no way do i want autolocks ,
But well maintained they can be of good service. but no one does it., it seems but the 100s of posts every year on this topic, #1 it is.
I'd put some new warns on it for $138

here is a safe test. (keys in pocket)
like you did but this time leave rears on ground lift front left.
put car in 4wd. in xfr case. clutch out, in gear
now grab left CV, if it dont turn, all is well.
now drop left side, raise right, again turn with hands the right CV
wont turn, , then again. all is well.

after passing that test , time for real locking hubs.


now the axle.


i looked up just the axle casing part nums.
the match , 95 and 96 , front and rear,

no guts or mounts or other fiddly bits. just the casings.

hope that helps.