surprise, surprise another escudo won't start

[chydan]

Hello all, new member here from New Zealand. I have an early model (89-90 not too sure of age) escudo g16a engine. Anyway the little beast won't start. It will idle at times, very roughly but open the trottle and it dies. have plenty of spark, and there is gas getting sprayed into the TB. Any suggestions? mybe not enough gas getting into the TB or some other problem. any help would be good, thanks

[ranger88den]

Originally Posted by chydan

Hello all, new member here from New Zealand. I have an early model (89-90 not too sure of age) escudo g16a engine. Anyway the little beast won't start. It will idle at times, very roughly but open the trottle and it dies. have plenty of spark, and there is gas getting sprayed into the TB. Any suggestions? mybe not enough gas getting into the TB or some other problem. any help would be good, thanks

Check compression. Fuel injected? Check fuel pressure. Check timing.
Any ECM codes stored. Look thru this.

Jerrys main sidekick page

[jtgh]

if you spary instant starter in a can down throttle body( not carb right )
and then start it and it goes, veeerrrrrrrrroooooooommmmm and stops or idles.
give it air during crank.at pedal.

it sounds like low fuel pressure.
but that is a guess.
or: T-belt slipped. bad horrbile need of tune up., bad gas. bad fuel pressurue regulator stuck wide open.

cheer.s

[chydan]

we did manage to get it to start by putting gas down the throttle body(no not carb) but took a little bit to start, but dies soon after. maybe the fpv stuck. Might try and find a replacement tb and see if that fixes the problem

[ranger88den]

If you think it's fuel related put a fuel pressure gauge on it and post pressure with ignition on/engine off & then with with the key off. Don't assume it's the throttle body (might need cleaning), could be fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, injector, Evap system (where applicable). Good luck & look thru this: Jerrys main sidekick page

[jtgh]

a replacement TB is going to break the bank.
it has TPS and Injector ,and dash pot and regulator. ALL very expensive parts.

so it runs, it just dont have fuel.
1: replace fuel filter , if not already done (15k service point it is)
and while there , remove the 6mm test port on the banjo bolt.

attach a pressure gauge to this port.
your answer is forth with.

my pump page shows how.

the gauge can be rented for $5 at any auto store. (under the counter they keep it , grin)

[jtgh]

most likely is bad pump, or bad ground wire behing , left tail light housing. (3pm loc.)
bad fuel pump connector (elect) very common.
bad Fuel pump relay.
bad fuel pump regulator on TB, RAP it with a screwdriver handle.

but for get that , just read the pressure. (listen for the pump with ear at the fuel filler neck ,cap off , buzzzz.

it only buzzes for 3 seconds each and every Key ON, no start. (2 people test)
and it buzzes continously while cranking (you wont here that)

cheers.

[chydan]

Ok, I am thining now that the timing belt has slipped, the car is flooding. have been told that the small cog at the bottom of the timing belt may have the key way flogged out, so I will need to check that. The timing may be out as much as 180 degrees. is there links on there how to do this and how to get the timing right after I have fixed the problem cog

[jtgh]

yours is TBI , throttle body 8 valve engine, as such it is free running.
if you suspect tbelt , look at my T-belt page,
just do not remove the cam cog with out first marking the keyway slot from the front.

the Dizzy can be timed after. i have dizzy page. if the cam is off ,dizzy will be too.
just ignore dizzy for now.

pull front cover, rotate crank to TDC. (see photo below for marks)
(On all , i do, I check the amount of torque on the big nut of of the crank cog.
if below 50psi i get worried,(new TSB spec, is 94Ft/lbs, retroactive to day one ,up to mid year 96.)

i have the lash spec. and procedure. on there.

the 8v should be set with valves loose. ( that way the tiny spring can do its job , with no valve bias)

timing belt swap

see photo 4. this shows ALL the ambiguities on this cam wheel. 2 false marks !!!
see cog bottom, 17mm bolt off, shows key-way.

http://carfix.stufftoread.com/t-belt...rank-cog1w.jpg

bolt can be tightened with car is 5th gear, if automatic, i recommend making a
flywheel locker. (via inspection cover).
i do not know how safe using the Parking Pawl is for almost 100 ft/lbs. many cars are not up to the task. ( i never use a parking Pawl for a lock)

Checks:
if the T-Bbelt has both (4 marks) all lined up perfectly then the belt is not slipped
if the dizzy is 180 out of time,then remove it and put back correct.

my (not me) just re-time dizzy 180 out. (dizzy can be timed 4 ways) only 11pm is factory way.
all the truly needs to happen dizziwise, is to have the spark happen at 0 -to 8Deg BTDC #1 firing.
AND have he rotor aligned with any cap pin (spark wire socket) [11pm is spec]
AND have #1 wire connected to what ever pin (you choose). then CW(clockwise) 3, then 4, then last 2 sparky wires. not observing the valves , invites 180 off results.
you can find the valve pos-tions,3 ways. look, pressure, and blowing air in to the spark #1 hole.

How to set ignition timing

when setting the cam timing, do NOT , look at the valves, just set it as it says.
(if you do you will notice #4 firing and get all confused)
just follow the markings on the cogs. NOThing else matters for the cam.
Holiday cheers.

[chydan]

So have removed the crank gear and found the keyway on the gear and shaft flogged out. With the loctite fix do you put the loctite on the new key to fix it in place? or just on the inside of the gear to fix it on to the crank shaft?