Distributor setting

[arod_12]

I just replaced the head gasket and sent the head away to get checked, once I got it back the company adjusted everything, I got the timing set on it but the distributor isn't timed right, How would I go about this I was told that the rotor needs to be face up towards the number 1 cylinder spark plug cable on the distributor cap, Does this involve taking the distributor off and spinning it until it is at this point or Can I do it without removing the distributor. Any help would be great, It is a 1992 Suzuki sidekick 1.6 liter 8 valve 4x4 5 spd.

[jtgh]

yes, , yes, and NO.

the dizzy can be timed 4 diff ways and run perfect.
but only one way is spec.
and please set it the correct way so the next mech. dont go freakn crazy figuring out what you did.
How to set ignition timing

see photos those are factory spec photos. (graphics not actual camera work)


yours is 11pm at TDC #1 real , not TDC #4 bad.

the only way to find TDC real. is
1: compression tester on #1 (watch it build compression, that is real TDC)
2: rubber tube in place of #1 spark , blow in hole, if cant blow, #1 real is for sure.)
3: look at cams (VC removed)

Piston at top means little.

[arod_12]

I don't plan on it but would trying to start it up when it is not timed properly do any damage to anything

[jtgh]

nah , no damage , but flames shooting back in to air cleaner and dog barking everywhere. (not driving)
driving up hills with illegal advance can blow the engine. (load is the key point)

why guess?

1: crank at TDC #1 firing ( valves closed, not open)
2: insert dizzy in to hole, the gears are helical, so they twist, as you enter.
3: now keep repeating step 2 , and get the rotor aligned to 11pm.
4: now look careful that this 11pm aligns perfectly with 11PM on Dizzy cap rotor post.
5: now look at dizzy clamp, is bolt in center of clamp slot,
yes , then tighten it.
no, then repeat 2-5 until 11pm and clamp is at 1/2 middle of clamp slot.

BINGO, tighten the clamp .

then after starting engine , set the timing exactly, with a strobe.

if you set it by ear , you run the risk of detonation (knock,ping)and bad engine damage. why do that?

set the timing with the light to 8 Deg.Before TDC, (camcover scale to the left 0, is before)

Harbor freight has a light for $10 , such a deal.

[arod_12]

Finally got it running but it sounds like crap it sounds as if there is something knocking, I have to adjust the timing defiantly, but what is this knocking noise that I am hearing, 8 valve 1.6 liter 4x4 5spd

[jtgh]

is something knocking,

where, high low, ?

[arod_12]

The valve adjusting screw is loose when I started the engine the 5rocker arm would just flap up and down making the knocking I was hearing, What is the clearance of these and how would I set it

[jtgh]

oops , thats not good.

easy just read my tbelt , page. lash set is standard procedure there.
timing belt swap
8v proc. is marked. PAGE1 and PAGE 2,

setting lash requires, setting the crank postion 2 times, at EXACT locations.
there is a photo showing what valves to set at which postions.

16v varies ,but yours is an 8v, and is much easier.

[arod_12]

I looked at the page and it seemed easy so I decided to set the valves I set valves 1, 2, 5 and 7 and then I turned the crank shaft one complete and then the valves that I just set went back to the way the one was, that I could lift it up and it didn't seem like they were set, I didn't try to start it because these valves seemed like the one loose on that was flapping and hitting the cam shaft. Is it normal for the valves to go this way after you rotate it, any help on this would be great.

[jtgh]

those are the 8v instructions.
they are the loosest ( highest lube points) for cam.
if you find rotating the cam to any other point and the previous valves set get looser, then you set the cam timing wrong, no ifs or buts.
BTW: 100 points for check that, always set a cam then roll the crank to validate that your lash is correct and NEVER gets looser. 100 points for smart work !

my timing page , you must align the marks for 8v Up ,UP , UP and UP.
cam key must be down.
if that is not set correct the lash will be impossible to set as will dizzy timing.
there are false marks on the cam cog. do not look at them !
the
crank cog pointer is up, pointing to oil pump arrow above. TDC 0 crank shaft.
all Tbelt changes require crank key way inspection and then torquing to the new TSB 94 ft/lbs spec.

the cam key must be down, the spoke titty up, and the upper outer rim edge mark point to the cam top back cover mark.

do all that and you are good to go for lash.


just be aware there are to cam cog wheels made, the Titties are diff. just to drive
us nuts. just be sure cam key way is down an this ambiguity goes away.

cheers.

keep us posted.