92 Tracker won't start

[slvdak]

Hi forums,
names Mark; I'm new, joined a few month back and have been very busy. I have a situation.
I have a 92 Tracker, 1.6, 4X4, 5 spd, last month I replaced the alternator and battery. I put new plugs in as well. I have been working on the floor (replacing it) and the tracker has been sitting for about 4 weeks. Anyways this past saturday I tried to start it, with no luck. It turns over fine, the battery is ok, lots of spark, fuel pump is working, the distributor cap is ok, the main fuses are good, even checked the timing belt which is ok.
So on sunday, after some more messing around, it fired and ran fine, what we did was move most if not all the wires around. We have narrowed down to an electrical issue. Last night (tuesday night) it wouldn't start again, same thing, so I moved the wires but nothing.

I searched the forums with some ideas but nothing to the complete same problem as mine.

I'm wondering if I might have a computer issue? or is there any known electrical problems that anyone else has had? or does anyone have any suggestion on how the best way to track down the problem, beside just trial and error.

I'm in a real bad spot, its my winter wheels and I'm at the point of "can I find the issue and fix it" or "move on, buy something else".

Any feedback would be great,
Thanks, Mark

oh ya, forum looks great, lots of info

[-Lawless]

Originally Posted by slvdak

So on sunday, after some more messing around, it fired and ran fine, what we did was move most if not all the wires around.

Moved what wires? The spark plug wires? I'm thinking not but to assume...well you know how that goes.

Could be a ground wire somewhere but hard to say at this point.
Are you getting any trouble codes from the Check Engine Light?

[jtgh]

good post by lawless.

92 what ? 16v or 8valve ,very important to know that.

first , clean and lube all grounds in the engine bay.

since we know the engine runs ( best data point of all)

then it is electrical ,efi failure.

here is what you missed.?

you lose spark ( if spark is lost, injection is stopped pronto by ecu, it software that does that)
or you lose injection. (bad wires, ecu, bad injector..

A NOID lamp kit or scope is necessary to diagnose any 16v. (GMM or DSO ,etc)

CEL engine lamp must be ON at key on ,no start then go out after start (yes, it dont start sorry)

keep testing for spark every time it dont start.
then if 16v use a noid lamp. for Injections.
if 8v just look down the TB horn, it is there your to watch and wonder why it aint squirting.

listening to the fuel pump at the tank cap (cap off) for buzzz
it only buzzes for 3 seconds ,each key on ,so that requires a helper. (no one man)

same thing again, and feel the exit hose on the Fuel pressure regulator,

tell what engine and diagnosis gets better and faster.

cheers.

dso - dig, storage , oscilliscope, GMM,graphing mulitmeter.
Ecu , engine controller unit , EFI PCM.
TB= throttle body.

[slvdak]

thanks for the replies guys.

Lawless

for the wires that I moved, basically every electrical connection, just to check all of them.

I didn't get a chance to check the code on the engine light, but its been on for a while, well since I lost me speedo cable again. I hope to check the code tonight, or by the weekend.

jtgh

where can I find out if its a 16v or 8value? is it located on the diagram under the hood?

I hope to have a look at it again tonight, weather permitting

Thanks again guys

[jtgh]

92 what ? 16v or 8valve ,very important to know that.
step 1 click my signature link see it there on my first post, with red words, click me.
Jerrys main sidekick page
or
here is the direct link
here:
how-to-find-EFI-parts
see valve covers, which one you got.?

now we know what engine you have ?
they have completely diff. EFI systems.

so the next step is to check spark. (any heat range or # , so long as it fits)

use a fresh clean plug , attach it to the end of #1 spark wire.
then lay spark plug on valve cover, then have some one crank and you watch.
dont touch, 50 to 100k volts can realllllllly hurt.

cheers.

[jtgh]

if that dont work.
your vin number ID's the engine.

VIN 8th digit (/GM/GEO only) is engine
U= 8v
6= 16v

there are 50 other ways, but those are the easy ways.

[slvdak]

looked at my VIN on my insurance papers
the 8th digit is a "U"

I'm just heading home from work, I plan to have a look at the engine tonight

thanks

[jtgh]

8v , has throttle body injection, and no fuel rail with 4 injectos and valve cover is black painted and no cast in words shouting, 16 VALVES.

ok
no start:
spark good,
one can see the injections while cranking on any 8valve engine.
you can look at do the actual squirting of the fuel to start.
you can use Instant spray start to see if car starts.
thus validating , compression, timing and spark all in one fell swoop.

if the TB injector is not spraying fuel
then the injector is not getting pulsed by the ECU
or the fuel pressure is way low.

A noid light will validate the ECU output,

but first step is to observe the lack of injection of fuel onto the throttle butterfly plate.
take the plastic cover off the TB tube to get to the bolts.

cheers.

[slvdak]

ok guys,
the Tracker runs once again.

once I got about 10 years of undercoating off and 10 lbs of grease, I starting tracing wires and the main ground was almost complete shot. The original owner had the entire engine bay sprayed, and yes it is good to keep our vehicles up north, safe from salt, coat over coat is point less. So I got some heavy duty de-grease and I finally found the crack. I also threw a new set of plug wires on it, just for good measure.

Hopefully it will stay running, and thanks for all the help guys