Drag is WOT, wide open throttle.
what is intake vacuum at WOT while accererating? if low, real low, a bigger TB will not help. (low, like atomospheric 0)
best way to do this is to do this:
1: where are you now?
engine, stock? custom ECU? custom exhaust?
2: where do you what to go?
go faster,
no, no that , how much faster do you want to go and how much money to spend.
Speed costs and there are few short cuts,cept cutting weight.
In fact weigth is the #1 easiest way to go fast , and any one can do it.
including the driver ! LOL.
you might be limited now, by valves and exhaust flow and not intake. Common on stock cars , it is.
there are other limits.
MAF limit.
ECU stock tuning, is very much limited.
speed usually comes best from this path.
1: tuned exhaust,
2: make engine breath,with bigger valves and or bigger engine or head.
3: custom stock ECU tuning or aftermarket ECU , no one sells the former on sidekicks. yet.
the cost of doing the above is expensive.
the reason many go to a Turbo with inline NOX. (nox used to spin turbo up faster)
On your car wot, is matched by WOT enrichenment mode of the ecu , which is set by the ECU at 12.5 to 1 (about) for max power, mostly so you can pass safely.
this mix is measured by the MAF sensor, and it is accurate at high air flows. very much.
it will run out of range ,not to far past stock wot under max load.
But a slightly bigger TB will probably run ok. (idle might not be too good)
in the stock system , you might get more power, but i dont think so.
unless major head work is done and exhaust tuned to your engine exactly
as you know the diameter and length of the exhaust must be tuned to the engine and
to the mode of usage. in your case tuned to WOT.
there are tables and online computer modeling programs to help with that.
Many people doing , serious drag ,just pop in a Megasquirt ECU and set it up to run
stickly off the TPS, no other senors needed.
Load is a constant do to flat ground and veh. weight.
after all, no need for sensors when the induction is wide open or closed, never between.
make tuning the Megasquirt (or other brands) real easy too.
1997 Suzuki Escudo, came from Japan.
So far i've done
-intake
-Opened up the exhaust by taking off the cat and the main barrel and replaced them with a resignator and racing barrel
-I've replaced my stock fuel pump with a walbro high pressure fuel pump
-Also added an aeromotive fuel pressure regulator.
I plan on going turbo in a few months but want to see how much can be done to this engine as possible !
Any advice before going turbo?
TURBO, that's a horse of a different color. huh?
You broke spades. Intentions are every thing, yah.
good luck with the rods, they are like Spaghetti,
next is cast pistions and hollow , cast iron crankshaft.
and #2 , do everything in the book to stop detonation. or bye bye engine.
need the book? , I can link it.
go easy on the boost.
I can only offer one good advice, there is a product you can buy that is an after market
early Knock (detonation) sensor. (have links)
attach it , hook it up and wire it so you get retarded timing and or max rich AFR if it
finds detonation. (must be 100% effectiv in doing the retard or max rich)
it is at best 99% effective.
(it is a back up device)
you have a custom ECU.
you tune if for NA
then you tune it for boost and feel good.
now you are driving on boost and that FPReg , gets funky and drops pressure.
Lean , instant detonation, the KILLER.
the Knock protect device saves the day.
but not every time.
hope that gets you on to some real fun, with little risk.
cheers
PS; if you run the Megasquirt, you have an in put pin called Knock
and the software saves the engine.
your ecu IS MISSING THIS PIN.
ANOTHER HACK IS the , variable Fuel pump regulator or pump system , to over come the limits of the normal
flow of injectors under boost.
now, if you look , there are models of these types of pumps,and regs, that have a relay input that
cuts the fuel to zero ,
so instead of going real rich or pulling hair out on how to get fast spark retard.
you just cut fuel to zero PSI on detection of knock and then add a timer, 2 minutes sounds nice to get engine and turbo spooled down.
other wire it to the waste gate ,but that reacts far to slow and it will be to late.
the key here is fast , and cut heat in the combustion chamber . as much as you can.
fuel cut would have to be instant. ( a fuel rail pressure bypass solenoid would work)
Id design the whole system around the protection , not the other way around.
just like Honda did.
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