You didnt remove the cam cog wheel? (cam , i'd dought that)
i mention that, because i do not know all that you touched , after a new tranny fix.
you said "r
esetting the tbelt, why did it need resetting?
validation?, replace tbelt ?, please explain reset.
I menitioned cog wheel, as replacing all front seals ,as some ppl do ,when swapping belt , including water pump. This is SOP with most shops. std,op. proc.
lets review the facts.
Good spark! Tune up Unknown. ?
belt was reset ?
compression low 30 to 40psi and gross difference to. DRY and cold. should be 150 cold.
another way to validate spark,
sparks plugs out is best ,but in is ok. (full battery charge)
put timing light on #1 spark lead.(inductive conn.)
point gun at crank pulley, (stand well clear of fan) point at index scale, some one crank engine. (if plugs out, keep them inserted in wires and grounded to valve cover.)[loaded]
look at the strobe !, is it hitting on 0 to 8 deg BTDC (before is on left of scale )
that proves that the crank and the dizzy are timed correctly but proves nothing about cam timing. ( many a person has timed a cam wrong ,then timed a dizzy perfect)
the dizzy runs off cam so , changing the CAM at any time wrecks dizzy timing.
cam must be done first and done perfect. (no variances)
if that pans out ,then start the car with "instant start". (sold at ever autostore world wide) can comes with a red straw, perfect for sneaking it in to the induction.
Guess 2:
if that dont work, then you need a tune up kit. cap rotor and wires/plugs.
ive seen old filthy carbon tracked caps ,etc , obsorb moisture just sitting like this and then
will use up, almost all spark energy. (this is common in damp weather)
if it due for its 50k tune up , now is the time, you could use all the spark you can get on a week motor like that. IT is weak. (or the cam IS WRONG)
i sent you a photo of the cog wheels, all the marks in my photo are painted white.
Are yours exactly the same? (there is no other way they can be , just like the photo, it must be....)
post #6
there are some absolutes, and the 2 things so far are spark and cam timing.
if these, are perfect as they must be, then you need compression and fuel to all 4.
the 8v shares the TBI, so they all get gas at the same time and equal.
(there is a fuel pressure test port on the side of the fuel filter , 6mm threaded)
I might add, I could start your car now with the compression you have.
but id never try until I inspected the cam.
all 4 low = "cams set wrong". or a very warn out engine.
We usually see 99,90,90,90 (when cam is off 1-2 teeth)
I always assume the former , just under the banner of HOPE. right?
I cant fix worn valves and cylinders, not with my magic wand.
give us a wet compression test. the instuctions with every gauge always mentions to
do that with low readings (any cyl and yours are all low)
The engine is a pump, if you are sure the pump is timed as it was the day it left the factory , then by all means shoot some instant start from its spray can , into the TB nipple.
and see if its starts and then stops. Verrroooommmmmm, die.
it runs, how about that.....
you do have the injector TPS 6 pin connector plugged in right?
http://carfix.stufftoread.com/fresh-...inj-view1w.jpg
see nipple on top right , shoot it there.
(back firing ( to TB ) means 1 of 2 things, (there are others, stuck valve ,cracked cam)
lean mix
or
out of time. (either or both)
that , should get you going.
cheers.
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