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Old 11-13-2008, 02:01 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default valve lash

Got to the point of wanting to adjust the valve lash on my 1991 1.6L 8v...

Chilton gives 0.0051-0.0067 inches for the intake and 0.0063-0.0079 for the exhaust... My feeler gauge set only has a 0.006 and 0.008...

Dug up Haynes, which gives 0.005-0.007 for the intake (cold) and 0.006-0.008 for the exhaust, which at least has the right level of precision.

But then a search on here dug up jgth linking to http://carfix.stufftoread.com/t-belt/tuneup.pdf which gives 0.3140 for the intake and 0.0102-0.0120 for the exhaust, which are completely different numbers.

So, do 4-digit precision feeler gauges even exist? Should I at least get a set with a 0.005 and a 0.007? Or should I just set both to roughly 0.006 and call it done? And what's with the pdf? Why is that so far off? 0.3" valve lash sounds way off
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Old 11-13-2008, 07:04 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You should wait for a reply from jtgh, I believe his 8v is approximately the same year as yours and he has a FSM. Don't trust Chiltons or Haynes they may have numbers confused with the 16v engine.
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Old 11-13-2008, 12:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Possibly, though Chilton has a huge table broken down by year, engine size, and valve number... Haynes condenses that into one line for the 8-valve and one for the 16-valve.

In the meantime, should I make yet another trip to the FLAPS for a more varied set of feeler gauges, or do these not need to be adjusted super super accurately?
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Old 11-13-2008, 02:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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on my t-belt page is lash.
is
http://carfix.stufftoread.com/CEL/lash1.JPG
and
http://carfix.stufftoread.com/CEL/lash2.jpg

see temperature charts on lash1.
set them anywhere in the range.
but cold is just I= .006 and E= .007 , six and seven thou.

hope that helps.

goday
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Old 11-13-2008, 03:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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those are good thru 1995 (data changes starting in 96)
and 16v is
Cold;
.005-.007inch I (fsm 95)
.005-.007inch E
so on 16v set them both at 6 thou.

there are some bogus data sheets (pdf) that show lash at .13" ( this was a misprint by showing metric as inches. very bad those pages are)

some like to set exhaust at upper limit, as these valves run hot and many have fear of
valve expanding and getting too narrow at the gap and resultant burned seats.
going high on lash will make the noiser too.
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Old 11-13-2008, 04:26 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rudar View Post
In the meantime, should I make yet another trip to the FLAPS for a more varied set of feeler gauges, or do these not need to be adjusted super super accurately?
Maybe I'm not understanding you correctly but usually you make up the correct size by using two or more thinner feeler gauges. I'd set them to 6thou and 7thou (or as close as you can get with the gauges), smack in the middle.
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Old 11-13-2008, 05:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Right, I think I was confused by Chilton publishing specs to a tenth of a thou, but that's probably just failing to round off properly after converting from metric specifications. And also, the feeler gauges I had didn't have anything smaller than 0.006 to stack. But I now have a better set that should work fine for me
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Old 11-13-2008, 05:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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And the next question. (that didn't take long, did it? )

The book says to use silicone sealant on the valve cover gasket. I have a tube of sensor safe ultra grey. Is there a pressing reason to use something other than that? And do you put the sealant on both sides of the gasket, or just between the gasket and the valve cover, and then oil the side of the gasket that hits the head? I seem to remember something like that on the VW, but these might be different...
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Old 11-13-2008, 06:11 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Use the sensor safe. The O2 sensor can be damaged by the use of 'normal' silicon sealant. Best way to fit the gasket is to apply the sealant to the rocker cover, position the gasket and then let it go off for a few minutes. That way its glued in place and therefore easier to assemble. Add a fine smear on the head side of the gasket before assembling.
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Old 11-13-2008, 07:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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http://carfix.stufftoread.com/tools/...nts-subs2a.pdf

i use the threebond,
but that is why suz worth this for people with out the real thing.(oem)

http://carfix.stufftoread.com/tools/...nts-subs2a.pdf

cheers
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