It Must Not. (increase, no matter, your check is very good, )
and setting lash to the center range (using round numbers) is best.
- Set TDC #1 on crank index 0 degr.
- make sure #1 is firing not #4 (watch valve actions)
- number 1 cyl. valves cam not pushing lifters.
- Dizzy rotor pointing to #1 is good sanity check.
- set lash I1, I2, E1,E3 , one phase 1.
- rotate crank 360 deg CW.
- set lash on, I3,I4,E2 and E4.
i got rid of wierd fsm coding and use the unambiguous, eg. I1 for Intake 1 and E4 , exhaust 4.
that makes it easier , I hope.
#1 TDC can be found many ways.
Dizzy rotor , weak as it might be set wrong.
watching valves , always works.
take a tube (hose) and blow air in the cylinder 1 to find real #1 , not too good a check if lash is wrong. (too tight)
compression gauge attached #1 and observe pressure increase after Intake cycle just before TDC , compressing. (can fail if valves are too tight)
the best is watch valves or the cam lobs pressing on the lifters.
Just watch #1 and #4 like a hawk.
just make sure you are not starting on TDC #4 which is very easy to do.
if head or dizzy was off car,
ignore dizzy rotor, it will be wrong ,fix that later.
watch the valves, always works. every time.
I hope the helps.
cheers.
I mentioned setting valve loose on some engines.and that is because , I track valve lash.
if it keeps getting tighter (valve recession can happen) then I tend to set the lash to what my engine is doing.
this is old school and is not as important today with better valves. but I still measure them all and log them. (out of habit)
I worked on MG's and Triumphs and lots of things that loved to work in tighter valve lashes with time.
The good old days ,weren't.
Linear Mode
