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Old 11-12-2008, 06:36 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default '96 Geo Tracker 1.6L

Logging code P1410. Refers to problem with fuel tank pressurization. Replaced gas cap. Hear hiss when I crack gas cap. Reoccurs after several re-starts once I reset OBDII . Gas mileage 25MPG+. Any help appreciated.
Other: Vehicle has 185,000 miles +, 5-speed-4-door, fuel line hoses look great. I fixed problem with intermittent VSV last year - problem kept setting EGR codes. Posted to this forum.
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Old 11-12-2008, 07:11 AM   #2 (permalink)
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This may have something to do with the
EVAP system (fuel/vapor recirculation). Good luck
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Old 11-12-2008, 08:49 AM   #3 (permalink)
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1410 refers to Evap Tank Pressure Control Solenoid Valve issue. In event fuel level height signal reaching ECM is too high, Valve prevents liquid fuel from reaching evaporative cannister by shutting off vapor line.
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Old 11-12-2008, 10:02 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks - are you saying fuel may sender signal out of wack? Guage is behaving same as ever. I did remove canister and checked it out. Canister on fuel injected models does not appear to contain any checkvalves or anything. Some information I had said canister operates continuously on fuel injection models. There was no liquid in canister. Electric shutoff solinoid valve is right next to canister. I was going to check that next opportunity. I commute with this thing 120+ miles per day. Lots of fuel ups. I'm careful not to overfill.
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Old 11-12-2008, 10:14 AM   #5 (permalink)
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1st FSM recommended test is to disconnect elec connector @ vacuum valve and check for 12v @ Blu/Black wire. If 12V is present, measure resistance across both terminals of the valve. Should be 33 to 40 ohms @ 68F. You most likely will have 12V @ solenoid; absence will affect other components spliced to this wire downstream of Main Relay terminal 4 which is power source to the vacuum valve.
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Old 11-12-2008, 10:26 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Nice - will follow through this evening. Have discovered other info on web including schematic which will help do doubt. I guess I can assume fuel tank pressure sensor (if bad) is buried back on the fuel tank? Appreciate fast reply.
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Old 11-12-2008, 12:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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evap is non trival on 96.
nor is ecu monitor of same.

i will get the data and mail it to you.

first is the presure test tank. (all smog stations do this as matter of 1st step)
if that passes the the other parts are bad ,in evap.

one surprise is 2door and 4door use EVAP1 and EVAP2 systems. they are diff by doors!!!
so first tell us the door count.
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Old 11-12-2008, 12:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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2door has the fancier eVAP2 enhanced system. (fill out car profile, answers get better)

evap 2 has the following extra components.

CVS usually open, until ECU conducts a test.
TPCVS
FTP sensor. (map sensor type device) measures pressure.
FTP sensor range is 0 to 5vdc, and goes to 2. to 2.5 vdc with cap removed.

see pm mail.
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Old 11-12-2008, 01:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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read your PM mail. (proc's for testing contained there)

First things first.
EVAP can be easy or hard.
dropping tank is no fun.

first buy a new cap. they can crack or ? fail some how.
second would be a real tank leak down test.

two possibles here:
it can be a real leak (as the monitor was designed to discover)
or
the electronics lying. (bad component ,electric,etc)

first is the leak test, it might be telling the truth.?

Then test all parts not above tank.
then test FTP sensor , output , tank cap off , then after driving.
note the FTP is BIPOLAR, below 2v is vacuum above is pressure. (wierd huh)

the ECU vents the tank if it finds vacuum present.

the CVS only closes during a live test of the systems (EVAP2 monitor)

the info is sparce unless you have a real FSM.

cheers.
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Old 11-17-2008, 10:51 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Fixed. Many thanks to all for data. Coil on Tank Pressure Control Solenoid Valve (TPCSV) open coil. I know this sounds cheap but I melt off factory connector - find good end of coil leads and solder. Repot and it's working. Since I'm not going to the moon with this thing I'll save $$ for now. Retire this Jan. I have gouged keyway on timing belt gear (crankshaft) like other's mention in this forum. Looks like I can get rebuilt crankshaft $250,00) plus relace everything else, clutch seals etc for arround $1,000 once engines pulled. Up to know I rework with JB weld every 10,000 miles. What the heck - I'll be retired. Appreciate forum and everyone who helped.
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