cleaning head gasket surfaces

[rudar]

So I'm finally down to the actual head gasket, which I started replacing a month ago... How clean do the surfaces need to be, and how would I clean them? There's no chunks of gasket on them, but they aren't exactly shiny, either, and I think the stains are slightly bumpy... I don't think there's enough to take off with a gasket scraper, and that or a razor blade always risks gouging the surface... Does one use steel wool on these, or would that scuff it up too much? Is it just engine degreaser on paper towel, and lots of patience?

[rudar]

For instance, this is the cylinder head around #1, after a bit of work with shop towel and engine degreaser... There seems to be a tiny amount of pitting (hard to photograph super-clearly...); is that likely to be a serious problem? Should I use steel wool or plastic 3M scrubbies to get this cleaner? Or would they scratch it up too much?



What about the carbon deposits in the combustion chamber? Should I try to clean those out, or leave them and run some kind of de-carboniser through the tank once she's running again?

[jtgh]

there is the tool for your drill ( i have one that fits a die grinder )
that is like scotch brite flappy pads attached to 1/4 inch drum tool.

the pads are scortched nylon pads technically.
Astro Pneumatic 2in. Surface Prep Pad Kit at BrandsPlace.com

it is really plastic steel wool (not) that is easy on metal.
it is amazing how it removes the junk but not any metal at all.

then use a steel rule and with feeler gauges check flatness in a cross pattern.
both the block and head.
spec: block .0024 inches max
spec: head ,004 inches max. ( if off , can be milled or heat relaxed)


sorry i can recommend a grit size. fine or medium is my guess.
i will look at mine later.

carbon same way.
all mechs use these. in a shop.

use a low speed, never stop moving the burnishing head.

[rudar]

Cool. Ended up using a non-name brand of the scotch-brite type pads from the grocery store's dishwashing section. About an hour's elbow grease on the head:



Should I be worried about the minor pitting here? Should I try clean up the carbon deposits now, or run some SeaFoam through the engine once it's back together? Or both?

Tomorrow's fun will be cleaning the block side. Unless the head doesn't yet look clean enough to you folks...

[jtgh]

geat job.
seafoam is just cheap pale oil, oil burned pooly (as it will) makes more carbon.

try injecting water, the carbon may blast away. (documented by many)

take 5th on rest.

[rudar]

Well, the block side head gasket mating surface doesn't look quite as clean as the head side, but it's not coming any cleaner, so I'm tempted to assume this is just staining and it's clean enough for reassembly...



Now to let the block dry (took advantage of the manifolds not being there to degunk it a fair bit... not perfect, but should be good enough to track any oil leaks, if the new head gasket doesn't fix them...), build another cradle and clean the other side of the head, and then start with the reassembly

[jtgh]

all that damage is from PO letting the anti freeze go sour.
sulpher from fuel , slowly passes from the combustion chamber to the water jacket over time , then poisons the Antifreeze.
most dont know this fact. too bad too as I can see the nice 60deg cross hatch in the cylinders,(nice)
looks like low mile engine. huh?

i'd worry those marging between the cylinders. eye ball them, put steel rule across each
and then see how big gap is.

i think the other areas are ok. that I can see. i zoom it and looked.
NYALOX brands.

Amazon.com: Wheel Brush Nylon Bristle 3 In: Home Improvement


ace hardware in tool section has all 3 grades.
many shapes, disc, a flapper style, and a cup.

orange =coarse. , good.
gray = extra coarse
blue = medium fine.

[rudar]

Well, it's not like I have cash for anything other than putting it back together and hoping for the best, so... I'll put it back together and hope for the best

[jtgh]

i think , it will run.

hope it runs long and hard.!!