engine died after replacing exhaust and headlights

[djunkees]

my newly rebuilt 1.6L, 16V-`92 motor ran great untill today.I replaced the entire exhaust and the headlamps with some ultra bright PIAA`s-it idled great for 5 minutes then died and would not restart. I immediately expected the fuel tank was empty since my guage is poor, but after adding about 2 gallons of fuel to the tank it still refuses to start. Seems to be delivering fuel to the rail and it also looks like no spark.Tried to get ECU codes but indicator lamp is having difficulty illuminating-sounds like a relay trying to cycle somewhere under the dash when It tries to flash a code...any suggestions?

[jtgh]

loss of 12vdc power .
check fuses carefully.

the clinking relay is a bad sign.
where did you steel power form to power those lamps. ? (if you did)
or are they just fed from the same stock lamps?


no spark at plugs and no spark from center tower of coil.? too?

the main relay is clicking or fuel pump relay.
one is black socket other is green , green is Fuel pump. mid steering column loc.
the lamp is flashing because the ECU powers up then something kills power to it.
that is no code.
if CEL dont stay steady, power is the problem.
(ecu could have bad internal capacitors too)

http://carfix.stufftoread.com/ECU/92...-size-huge.png

zoomable saveable and you can load into xp viewer and zoom to any reso.

the black/white and the blue/black wires must go to 12vdc an hold solid .

above link is all details to make an EFI engine run, exact for your car.

identify relay that is clicking,the get the color wires off it (write the colors down)
then look at above print.
and we work from there.

cheers

[djunkees]

Thanks Jerry! The lights are stock type mounting. I`m going out to try again-armed with your advice...

[djunkees]

Eventually it started again both yesterday and today...I left it idling and each time it died after about 30 minutes and would not start again. It`s not getting spark and I suspect the ciccuit before the coil-ie igniter/noise suppresor and ECM...further tests to follow

[jtgh]

warms and dies after 30 min, no spark. sounds like bad electronics , heat sens.
(edited later to help jargon)

you need to find is :
CAS failing hot (base of dizzy) (Cam Angle Sensors called cmp by suz)
and if not CAS, then is spark signal dropping out in to IGNITOR gate (input)
CAS is a 5vdc square wave , can be seen on a meter (analog is better but many digital have a bottom analog bar! ,best)

spark is hard to see with out a DSO. (Digital storage Ocillocsope ,really any scope in the world will work, even a $20 used one)

the ignitor and coil can be tested with a 3 cent 150 ohm resistor. (the ignitor is just a power transistor)

one pulls ecu connector (unlocks) and then jumper the 150 from 12vdc source the harness ecu pin conn. called. A4

http://carfix.stufftoread.com/ECU/92...-size-huge.png

touch resistor (not 12v end) to this pin (ecu unplugged) at harness side. (never to any ECU actual pin)

the Ignitor will charge the coil ,then when you release the resistor the coil will
produce 100,000 volts, so make sure you have a spark plug connected to coil tower and shell to ground for a good load.
it likes a load like that. ( this works just exactly like the old fashioned Points Dizzy cars ,circa 60s)

do not run coil open circuit, it can flash over , (reach out and touch someone, hurts like no tomorrow ) and might flash over to Ignitor pin and blow it to kingdom come. ( dust on coil, helps cause this , even more)
so easy to do ,

i just load coil with spark wire and (stolen from #1) and jam it in coil tower and shell ground the plug.

having a helper can allow one to tickle and the other to Look.
we have the ohms values for the coil windings , if you need it.


keep away from spark plug. The HV on high energy ignitions, is very nasty stuff.
Imagine touching your lawnmower spark plug (while running) and 10 times worse.

cheers.

[djunkees]

some of these things you mention are new for me but I appreciate your help and tomorrow morning I`ll be trying to do those tests...

[jtgh]

i forgot to say.
cas test
leave connected.
Key on.
back probe the cas out signal line at its connector using a needle.
(if you have needle probes all the better)
then crank engine.
see meter deflect to 5v, then 0v for each passing of the rotor past a spark wire.
look in side ,see hall sensors and reluctor wheel.

This CAS on this car is one of the easiest in the world to view. because of the
hall amplifiier in side and a buffer transistor.
it makes a pefect square wave .

it is just telling ECU , fire, fire , fire ,over and over.

hope that helps you.

what you have:


CAS >>>>>>> ECU >>>>>>>IGNITOR, COIL, ROTOR, CAP, HVWIRE>SPARK PLUG.


that is the electrical progression for spark.
Your ECU works hard to make spark, especially while cranking ,it ignores many sensors and just makes spark HAPPEN.

few books mention that.

cheers.

[Tracker Tommy]

I have ti agree with JTGH, I think you fried somthing in the electrical system, My 88' Jeep Wranger had the same prolbem, it would die after 45 mins, needed a P/U coil & distrubator shaft.

I would check the ECM first as these are common issues, but once they are replaced they are good to go.

[jtgh]

the CEL must come on KEY ON. no starts

if it dont , 1 of 3 problems
1: loss of power to ecu
2; bad ecu
3: bad lamp

the CEL on , at key one,signals, I am passing my self tests.
if you see it not come on .

chcck , lamp , and the fuse to ECU (including the dome memory fuse)
also once on
pull the codes , see if you can get code 12

if you get no codes, then again , bad ECU or loss of power to it.

replace the cap shown here.

c103
My ECU is bad, now what?

they go bad easy, replace it before replacing ecu , far faster to do that as exhange can take 2 weeks on fleebay.

any one with soldering circuit experience can do it, ham radio guys ! yah.


The main relay must pull in every time, if it dont ECU will be useless..
If you suspect Main output failure ,just wire in a cheap lamp to the node.
then watch it, (#194 lamp is good)

if it dies and light dies, you found the reason. (MAIN DROP OUT)

keep an open mind, most fails here , are random.
top is bad wiring.
corrosion of connections
bad c103 ( replacing fixs most flaky ECU's)
bad main relay
bad wires to main.
corrosion to bottom of right fender main fuse buss ( note HEAD lights dropping !)
alarms wired in to critcial ECU circuits by numskull PO's
same for remote starting. why risk primary circuits for that BS.? (bull squat)

YOu need to watch the CEL lamp , key on , and running.
do you get ECU code 12 by placing the paperclip , high tech code scanner??? lLOL

[jtgh]

Check Engine Lamp stuck ON?

jump B to C

this can be KEYON, cranking and running.
all three modes can be used to look at the codes

Keyon= jump it and get memory
cranking =jump it and see cod41 or 42 codes (maybe) which warns of bad cas or spark.
running , see old and new codes roll out , 1 at a time.

removing dome fuse and put back ,(count to 30 out) and erase all history , all !