My seal "driver" is a section of pvc with a glue on joint, cut and sanded smooth and true.. didn't help much.. after 4 seals (or was it 5?), the last one went in and only "peeled" a little around the outside as it went in the last thrird of the way.. I was fed up enough to reassemble and try it... still leaks! I wish this thread had been a little farther along.. interestingly, the problems with the Tracker (besides the leak) was it was bogging down..0-60 in about a minute.. and it was abrubtly down shifting at the slightest trottle modulation. I fiigured it was thr EGR codes and the kickdown cable. Well, I test drove after the crank seal ordeal, and it drove just like the day I bought it.. fast(er), and no wierd shifting. It must have been due to the worn crank key.. and it wasn't all THAT worn, but I guess it was enough that the timing gear didn't line up quite right. So, now i just have to redo the seal. The worst part is dealing with the radiator.
Haha.. mine sure didn't work! I'm just happy that the other problems went away... I am actually going to see about having someone else do the seal.. I ruined enough of them.
Well, now, no need to be calling me a hero... And we don't know whether my "rote install method" actually "works" until a few dozen people have done it by rote I might just have gotten lucky. And DarnThorny's problem is the *outside* of the seal, not the *inside*, so it doesn't sound like the same problem at all...
Heh. Well, now that the seal replacement is out of the way, let's get back to the initial topic of this thread, which is worn keyways...
I started by masking off the keyway with electrician's tape and scuffing the insides with fine emery cloth:
Then I removed the tape, wiped everything down with degreaser, and masked it off again. I also scuffed a nice cross-hatch into the key itself (about three swipes each direction against the emery cloth), and kneaded my tube of keyway and bearing surface repairing loctite (aka permatex):
Actually putting the key in was messy, as I was wearing gloves, the key is small, and then I had to pull it back out to put more permatex on it...
I pretty much leveled it by feel. While the camera can "see" it from this angle, my head is bigger than my camera . And given it's a half-moon, it has to be level so the gear doesn't hang up on it...
As advertised, any permatex not in the gap doesn't cure (I have no idea how they pull that magic off...), so after a few swipes with degreaser, removing the tape, and a few more swipes with degreaser, it looks ready to put the gear back on. I'll wait on that until I can recruit a roommate, though, so we can hold the flywheel while torquing the bolt...
Yeah, mine caught up on the outside only.. everytime 1 Pep Boys Tiwan part, and 4 OEM Japan parts from Chevy Dealers... $6, 12 plus change at the dealers.. except Northeast Chevy.. they charged me 18.95! Then I needed 1 of the 5 crank pully bolts... a dealer only size (the head needs to be small).. I had to order it from the dealer.. they came from the warehouse in a pack of 10... guess, I had to buy all 10.. I have 9 left. If anyone needs one or two.. or 9- let me know. Rudar is definately the hero... and Jerry too... genius when it comes to car stuff.
Talk about perfect timing,,,,, I've been following this thread with interest as my valve cover gasket replacement is not the only oil leaks I have to fix on my 96, still have a small leak my guess and after looking behind the belt cover I suspect a probable front main seal leak, or leak at the oil pump, I don't think it's the pan but it's possible, after reading the pitfalls of the crank seal replacement I wasn't looking forward to doing this, and I hate oil leaks period.
Now I feel this will not be a total possible nightmare, but more a straight forward job with the techniques that have been presented here, thanks for the tricks of the "I've got to get this done somehow" so to speak and of course necessity is always the mother of all inventions, thanks rudar.
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96 Tracker 4wd, 1.6 EFI 16v, 3spd auto, soft top, air, 2d, 235's, a project in progress
all those reading
the seal guide tool is $2 at suzuki, order on inadvance of actual seal replacement.f
i have pn and sw suzuki has them.
this crank ,must never have a seal just pounded in.
in fact all seal makers tell you to cover all surfaces before insertion ,
no going over spines, keyways or lips, , all mfg state that, 50 or so.
At Timken bearing they have a whole web section dedicated to seals.
even the slightest nick on the lips renders the seal useless.
2
the TSB is clear, all zuks to 1998 (at least ) need to be crankbolt torqued to 94ft/lbs.
if everyone did that ,we would be doing above.
thanks a million to rudar, his photo seq. is better then the mazda site on same.
very good.
it is posible to pull the cover on th efront of engine with litte else removed.
by pull i mean unscrew it and tilt it fwd.
then look for oil leaks from cam.
one can also check the timing on the cam.
its just a flimsy poly cover, and dirt cheap to buy new.
happy new year.
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91'-8v,2dr,4wd,Conv. Market#E03
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I might just have gotten lucky. And DarnThorny's problem is the *outside* of the seal, not the *inside*, so it doesn't sound like the same problem at all...
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