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Old 11-07-2008, 09:04 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I had a similar prroblem, but it was the outside that would hang up. I don't remember that silver colored ring around the outside, but whatever... good luck with it, I feel your pain. I have the two purple FSMs (97 Tracker) and they have very little in the way of diagrams.. what year is the FSM for that mentions the tool?
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Old 11-07-2008, 11:08 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LKane View Post
I have a factory service manual (not haynes etc.) and they indicate using a tool which looks in the sketch in the manual like a sleeve (don't have it here at this writing so no part number for now). At first you thnk the tool is to protect the seal from scuffs, but I realized that more importantly it is to create a ramp up to the diamater of the "shoulder" where the actual diameter of the crank is larger where the seal rides on the "chase". This plastic "ramp/sleeve/tapered thing" keeps the seal from folding outward as depicted in your photo. I would try to imitate that part with two different wraps of electrical tape, one closest to the chase wrapped up to the full diameter of the chase and one in front of that( i.e. closest to the front of car) with several windings smaller. Then wrap a single layer of teflon plumber's tape BEGINNING at the engine end, and spiraling toward the bumper, so that the overlapping wraps looklike like handle bar tape on a racing bicycle. The reason you begin at the chase end is so that the edges of the tape overlap in such a way that the seal won't castch them as you push the seal in place. This is an untested method which I will try as soon I resume work on my engine next week.
Awesome idea. I might use jgth's pop-bottle plastic idea, to bulk things up, rather than using quite that much tape... Should be able to make the plastic taper slightly, too.
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Old 11-07-2008, 02:14 PM   #23 (permalink)
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rudar your photos are great ! can i have and post it.
and the words describing how to spiral wind it is surpurb.!

thanks for sharing.

can you share the Install ,difficulty, putting seal back was hard?

the extra care, pays off with a good fit and no damage.

thanks again for sharing.!!
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Old 11-07-2008, 02:32 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Sure, sure, help yourself to any pictures you want. And feel free to request any other pictures you'd find useful, too...

Removal was easy, tapped an awl into two spots, screwed in some small wood screws, grabbed two pairs of pliers and it popped out with some gentle pulling.

Install, I just put by thumbs on it and kinda "found" the spot where it slid in with no particularly high pressure. But then noticed the inside had mangled itself... Will try (and photograph...) the install of a new one with the crankshaft wrapped into a cone...
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Old 11-07-2008, 03:57 PM   #25 (permalink)
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ahhh, the lips of the seal (lip to crank boss) likes to hang up.
I wonder if one turn of electricans tape to that boss edge. a dab of grease around it
would help that.....?

love a photo with seal out. same as before , only out.
sorry if it is back and cant do that, understand that of course.

That boss, is a trip up, and there are no words anywhere to help , ive looked too.

cheers.
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Old 11-08-2008, 03:14 AM   #26 (permalink)
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As requested, photo with the seal out:


I ended up taking a yoghurt container, cutting a strip approximately 3/4" wide and exactly 10cm long, taping it into a ring, covering the outside with teflon tape, and fitting it inside the seal, like so:


This then slipped over the crankshaft snout and up to the boss, and I gently eased the seal over the edge of the boss. It took the assembly with it a bit, so I then held the seal in place and gently pulled the ring out with needlenose pliers. Voila! Seal over the boss, no turned inside out. Then I pushed it in as far as I could by thumb, and left it pending finding/making an implement to tap it in the rest of the way...
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Old 11-08-2008, 05:24 PM   #27 (permalink)
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absolutly ingenious, and thanks for id'ing the container, Yogart cantainer.

I will add it to my tbelt page. with your blessing.

thanks!
many people here have posted that they keep munging seals, now a solution and graphic to boot. thanks
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Old 11-08-2008, 05:55 PM   #28 (permalink)
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bless you, dude.

i will send link soon.

giving you credit.


done
how to put seal back in

your ripped off .
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Last edited by jtgh : 11-08-2008 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 11-08-2008, 10:22 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Just to finish the job, I stopped by the plumbing department at Home Depot for a front-end seal installation tool:




Slipped that over the nose, and tapped the seal in with the dead-blow mallet.
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Old 11-09-2008, 01:10 PM   #30 (permalink)
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its amazing what you can do with those.
I used EMP/PVC to install new fork seals on my dirt bike too.

this is even cooler, you have plumbing adaptor that helps spread the force evenly.
very nice idea.

thanks for sharing !!
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