Worn Crank Key

[rudar]

so, when re-assembling, should I use locktite on the crank shaft timing gear bolt? The miata instructions say to do so, but here that sort of behaviour keeps being referred to as something stupid the DPO might do to make our lives miserable...

[DarnThorny]

Rudar, Since yours is a 5 speed, pulling the radiator is a lot less hassle than on an automatic.. I'd leave the seal alone if it's ok.. Once you've done the timing belt, getting in a second time in case of a leaking seal is a lot easier.. but, I've only done timing belts on the Tracker and my Miata (along with all of the other typical stuff).. Jerry on the other hand, actually knows what he's talking about.. I probably should have replaced the oil pump on mine (with the burred seal perimiter), but I have too much going on to get drop the front end, and all that's involved... would be easier to pull the motor and really go over it... that's for another time.. or another owner. I used Locktite blue on my crank bolt.. whether that was a good idea, I don't know. I stiil need to get a few hose clamps, coolant and maybe some atf so I can fire it up and see what happens.

[rudar]

This is true, but as I understand the key way fix, you're pretty permanently bonding the key in there, so going in later to replace the seal might be difficult. I'm leaning towards just doing it now (well, it'll probably be Thursday before I get to it...)

[DarnThorny]

Oh, I missunderstood.. you were talking about the keyway fix with the locktight.. I was just talking about putting some locktight blue on the crank bolt, hopefully to keep it from rusting in there.

[jtgh]

its all black art, no one knows what is best , only a look and assement.
and replacing the oil pump is a real pain.
could result in fixing leak that might happen, and now the pan leaks.
been there done that.
this issue. is simular to working an exhaust system. remove bolt snap , ooops
then the job cascade to the end of rear bumper, dang......

I hope it all works out for you and there are no surprises !!!

cheers.

[jtgh]

sex on wheels.

Lisle 58430 Shaft In Seal Puller

from amazon for $13.50 ( but not free shipping like above)

this tool will pull the seal on cam or cark, with shaft in place.

Super idea that is .
the shinny parts goes against the head (fulcrum) and the you lock bit end into seal.
then press handler, and out pops seal.
id still use protection with some plastic wrap on shaft.

check it out.

[LKane]

I found a novel fix for the worn keyway. This is partly based on the assumption that they always wear on the left due to load and rotation direction etc. Instead of dealing with liquids (loctitem epoxy etc) and indtead of the extreme of joy of using a round cutter to try and cut a square slot, stick the new key in a vise, lay a bead olong the bottom on one SIDE, and then dremel grind it to conform to the damaged slot in the crank snout. The sprocket when placed over it will hold it down in the right place. Another benefit is that the key is a dollar so second chances are cheap.

following is related and not intended as a thread hijack I think his answer would be is good for all

Jerry H hi I'm trying today to change my oil pump and I really don't want to drop the front transaxle to get at the 3 pan bolts above it. Can I remove the two studs on the new pump and drill and tap to become regular pan bolts and slide it straight back and on or do I need the pan off to align the oil pickup?
(presumes I can get the old pump off by breaking off its pair of pan studs)

[jtgh]

you are genius level. (truly)
there are others here that have made your fix work but it takes great skill and of course can work wonders. (you give it no room to wiggle is why, my guess)

the pan idea issue, is also , genius level again!
please do try that,and report your success. even a single photo of it removed in that process. There are and will be others in same boat.

the studs might unscrew, but i realize how would you grab them.
they might too, be cast in place.

or
you might discover a way to just tip the pan down in front. with little prep.?

anyone else with some idea's

lots of ways to skin a cat as they say.
all have merit.

wow, and THANKS for SHARING !!!
cheers.

[rudar]

Sigh. I rather suspected that I would end up deciding to go ahead and replace the seal, and also that I would rather end up regretting that... Removing the old one was trivial. Putting the new one in was easy. Getting the new one in *right*, however...

[LKane]

Originally Posted by rudar

Sigh. I rather suspected that I would end up deciding to go ahead and replace the seal, and also that I would rather end up regretting that... Removing the old one was trivial. Putting the new one in was easy. Getting the new one in *right*, however...

I have a factory service manual (not haynes etc.) and they indicate using a tool which looks in the sketch in the manual like a sleeve (don't have it here at this writing so no part number for now). At first you thnk the tool is to protect the seal from scuffs, but I realized that more importantly it is to create a ramp up to the diamater of the "shoulder" where the actual diameter of the crank is larger where the seal rides on the "chase". This plastic "ramp/sleeve/tapered thing" keeps the seal from folding outward as depicted in your photo. I would try to imitate that part with two different wraps of electrical tape, one closest to the chase wrapped up to the full diameter of the chase and one in front of that( i.e. closest to the front of car) with several windings smaller. Then wrap a single layer of teflon plumber's tape BEGINNING at the engine end, and spiraling toward the bumper, so that the overlapping wraps looklike like handle bar tape on a racing bicycle. The reason you begin at the chase end is so that the edges of the tape overlap in such a way that the seal won't castch them as you push the seal in place. This is an untested method which I will try as soon I resume work on my engine next week.