1998 Sidekick One H20 hose left?

[oldorchard]

1998 Sidekick JX auto 4wd 4dr 1.6l 16V I have one hose that is about 15 or 16 inchs long half inch in dia. It has a screw acting as as a plug don't know where it should go. I can not figure it out looking at SSM manuals and jtgh sheet. Its right under where the thermostat goes? I have pictures attached. Any help on emissions not ready also. I live in Illinois and we have to have them tested every 2 years. This car had a engine swap and previous mechanic never finished. I am an alley cat mechanic. Thats what my regular mechanic calls me. HAAA Thanks

[aquanaut20]

Q: were the pics of the O2 scanner taken the same time the paper doc was printed?

Your first pic on the sscanner shows that the MIL is on, the doc shows NO DTC's. If the MIL is on you have DTC's, and if the MIL is on your ready markers will not set.

[jtgh]

hello alleycat.
you reset the ecu dtc's now we are blind. 3 blind mice...LOL
the incompletes tells that and tells the smog man too, and will fail you if more than 1 is incomplete. (oxy and egr)

drive car , unit mil sets (CEL glowing)
then post the erorrs.DTC's

photo1 is dash guage sender (forget that , for smog)
photo 2 ? load in ms-paint and paint hose you question. I can send hose map.
red X will help.

let the ECU tell you what's wrong and post the DTC'S

P0400 , or oxy fails might come up.?

last. that hose , it does have two ends.
may i ask where the other end goes?
i will rustle up some coolant hose dwgs. H2o

tell more.

[jtgh]

http://carfix.stufftoread.com/sensors/ECT-loc.JPG

there is 1 set of IAC thermo hoses and the bypass hose 24-27

have you found the hose nipple juttn out the bottom of the intake manifold?
but that would really leak.
i think it is called the bypass hose


above link
plus
below attach, gets most h2o holes, me thinks.

[deeznutts77]

he said it had a "screw acting as as a plug" so i could be the 3rd member breather with the cap missing.

[oldorchard]

After I took the IAC valve off and cleaned (thanks jtgh) the sidekick idled good put it had a code that it was running to lean. I went to the good mechanic (Rick) he was glad that the MIL light was on. I do not reset it I leave it alone.(give me a little credit) He noticed in 2 sec. that previous mechanic used some yellow sealant around throttle body connection to intake manifold (NO GASKET) and was missing a bolt (bottom left front).I never noticed it was missing. Me alley mechanic! Rick got a new gasket and put a bolt in where it was missing and set engine to spec. I was never happier!! Money well spent. (Blank)boys wanted 98 dollars to tell me what was wrong and 3hr waiting time! Anyways the codes cleared when Rick repaired.
Thats when I went to the emissions testing place and they gave me the attached paper. Their was no MIL light on. I was surprised when the emissions tester told me it was incomplete. The MIL came on the next day driving to work. I checked the code and it and said P0510 (Closed Throttle Position Switch). I thought the car was running fine. Drove around the area a couple times everything was running MIL light still on. Next day got in car and started to go back to Rick and MIL was off by itself.
I have put 350 miles on the sidekick since the engine swap. When the car ECU resets the codes by itself does it clear everything so it is not ready for testing? How many miles is it typical before it is ready? 1.EGR system=INC 2.Oxygen Sens MoN=INC could it be related to missing H20 hose?
I getting dangerous now thinking. I will try and take better pictures of hose, you can"t really see under their. I was shoving the camera in between things and was getting dizzy myself. Twisting and cocking my head I thought they looked good you gotta be here.
And you guys are right (Sharp!) when I took the 3 pictures of the Scanner Output the MIL was on (came back on code P0510) and again it went off by itself. I will try and mark up the sheets in paint program and try to re post again. Thanks everyone

[jtgh]

ok , sorry didnt mean to imply you reset codes. but something did.
this ecu can infact clear its own codes.
it can have pendings.
set them a
and clear them.
and you can help by driving lots of diff. gears up to 50mph or so.
there is a printable set of rules for running off the monitors.

The monitors (all but one ) must be all clear in most states or they will fail you.
Some monitors will reset to pending , with a battery power interuption.
but the battery will not clear them, only hides them for a short period.
By hide , I mean just the MIL lamp , anyone with a scanner can see them .

510 is bad TPS ,switch side (or not calibrated )
close throttle , and make sure switch is closed. need wire colors?

that hose , it looks like the bypass hose is missing.

Look at that big metal pipe , in photo jpg above it is #4
i will examine your ploto carefully today.

see that pipe #4 , it is a manifold with many pipes.
the tiny one (one of) is a bypass tube.
it goes to the bottom of intake manifold on many kicks.

examine all hose on that manifold and make sure each goes some where.
I bet not.
510 fix.
TPS testing

the switch must close at idle , or idling will be bad.

you photos are good. that arrrow says it all.

more later

[jtgh]

the suz photos are poor at showning routing.
but we can still figure it out by the process of elimination.

1/2 diameter limits search.